Collection
HSTE presents his focused collection of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402 watches, prompting a discussion on the fine line between collecting and addiction. His detailed account of acquiring various serials, including rare A-series and a unique black 'Karl' model, offers insight into the dedication and thrill of pursuing specific vintage references. This post celebrates the passion for horology and the deep dive into a particular model's history and variations.
Took the time briefly to take a family portrait of my Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402
I had started this family originally with the A-818. The 5402 family and particularly the A-series belonged into the category: icon, really nice design, very comfortable to wear, fairly limited, early model - so, a couple of "ticks" difficult to resist. Then, shortly later, I had the fortune to find "Karl" the black 5402. Being an 4 Digit A-series (A-12xx), it ticked all the boxes of the A-818, but then in addition: famous provenance, "freaky" because of the black finish. Then I took an AP-RO 5402 rest, but it lasted not too long. I stumbled over the A-3x. Imagine: an A-3x, one of the first 30+ Royal Oaks ever produced. All original, good condition, seller physically nearby. Tick-tick-tick buy. And then, when I thought that my AP RO 5402 series is done, I came across the B-2000. Now that is a nice number. Good condition, all original, you can guess: tick-tick-tick buy.
And now: well, if there is ever an A-series single digit waiting out there for me in a good condition: I might be in danger. I came across earlier this year the A-9. But it was gone before I had a chance to start talking. Anyway: happy with my little 5402 family. Enjoy, have a good week-end and: cheers!
HSTE
The "Family"
The Royal Oak reference 5402 is recognized as the original iteration of the model, introduced in 1972. This reference established the design language that would define the Royal Oak collection, characterized by its integrated bracelet and octagonal bezel secured by visible screws. It was initially presented as a luxury sport watch, distinguishing itself through its material and finishing in a period dominated by more traditional dress watch aesthetics. The 5402 was produced in various series, with the A-series being the earliest and most sought after by collectors.
The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case, often referred to as the "Jumbo" size, which was considered substantial for its era. It houses the self-winding Caliber 2121, a thin movement derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre's Caliber 920, known for its full-rotor design. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The crystal protecting the dial is acrylic, and the watch offers a water resistance of 50 meters, suitable for general wear.
For collectors, the reference 5402 holds significance as the foundational model of a major watch series. Its various production series (A, B, C, D) present nuances in dial text and case back engravings that are closely examined. The integrated steel bracelet is an integral part of its design, contributing to its distinct profile. The blue dial, often with a "tapisserie" pattern, is a hallmark of this early reference, though other dial variations exist.
Bravo HSTE! I think it takes a lot of diligence and discipline to stick on a great single theme like this. Also with these beauties, you have every excuse in the workd to commission a cabinetmaker to make you a special display case.
It's only an addiction when you stop referring to others as having a better collection than you do: For example, People ask me "How many Seikos do you own?" I answer "About 60" They either say "Oh my!" or "That's alright then, not so many" To which I add, "That's wristwatches. I also have 10 pocket watches and 60 Seiko clocks. Plus all the Swiss ones." And before they roll their eyes too much, I add "But my pal has over 600 Seikos!" effectively classifying myself as a rational collector, and him
.....I think the D's are in terms of production numbers the smalles batch. They made 2000 A-series, 1000 B- and 1000 C-series, and they began with D-1000 but did not go to D-2000 but stopped somewhere in the middle. The hihgest I have so far seen was the D-1412. Cheers, HSTE
amazing collection! Laurent
....the switch from "AP at 6" to "AP at 12" occurred somewhere around serial C-1700. But then, as you know, many AP RO 5402 have over the years suffered from getting service dials with "AP at 12" and "Swiss Made" (instead of "Swiss") so there are of course many A-, B- and early C-Serials out there with "AP at 12" these days. Cheers, HSTE
very very nice indeed. Wear any great piece in good health
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