Audemars Piguet Most Complicated Vintage Watch History

AndCavanaugh delves into the intricate history of the "Universelle" or "Universal-Uhr," a watch often cited as Audemars Piguet's most complicated creation. This piece explores the true origins of the movement and the complex web of manufacturers involved, challenging the straightforward narrative of its provenance. Understanding this watch's journey is crucial for collectors interested in the historical collaborations that shaped early haute horlogerie.

This is the “Universelle” or the “Universal-Uhr” in German. It is the most complicated German watch, in a three way tie with its siblings. It is currently the centerpiece of Audemars Piguet’s museum and the namesake for their Code 11:59 Ultra Complication. The movement was originally signed by Union with number 54342. In 1993 Marcus Margulies bought the watch at auction, he replaced the rose gold case with a platinum one, put his name and the modern AP logo on a new dial. Presumably he was also the one who had the movement refinished and signed AP with number 6142 (2). 

Union Glashutte (Durstein) ordered three extra complicated ebauches from Audemars piguet, who acted as a broker between the German houses and the complication makers of the Vallee de Joux. LEP sent the ebauches to AP, a 22’’’ (The Universal-Uhr), 23’’’ (La Fabuleuse), and 24’’’ (Martin Seidel’s Universal-Uhr). Fritz Osterhausen says that AP sold movements were then sold to Union unchanged (1). This certainly true for the 23’’’ and 24’’’ movements, because they were only finished decades later. The Universal-Uhr’s escapement and stud holder are clearly German, so AP didn’t make those.

So it seems like AP had basically nothing to do with the watch and was just a middleman between LEP (who supplied the ebauche) and, Union/Durstein who finished, cased, and sold the watch. Am I missing something?

Sources

1. “La même année, Audemars Piguet & Cie vend ces trois ébauches, inchangées , sous ses propres numéros de fabrication 6142, 6143 et 6144, à la maison Union dürrstein & Cie à Glashütte”L’oeuvre de Louis-Elisée Piguet page 95
2. Sotheby’s Important Watches November 1993 Geneva
3. Audemars Piguet Museum