Cartier

WHL
[VC Moderator]
4922

• Show profile
• Show other posts

Calibre de Cartier Diver

I venture that it is safe to assume that though the majority of readers and participants here at PuristSPro are male with an appreciation for Cartier’s haute horlogerie models, in the public’s eye most people think of Cartier as a jeweler and a maker of watches for women. Cartier’s watch production is also largely comprised of women’s watches (I heard it said recently that Cartier sells 500 Ballon Bleu models a day worldwide), but that doesn’t mean that Cartier is conceding the market for men’s watches to other brands. The Calibre de Cartier was launched in 2010 as a watch explicitly designed for men. The 42 mm diameter is large for a Cartier, and in a sweet spot for the size of watch men now prefer. Its lines also had a more masculine presence. The dial is more aggressively designed, with the large Roman 12 and the shift to stick markers below the 9-3 axis, and a recessed small seconds dial. Most important was the caliber 1904 MC, an in-house designed and manufactured automatic movement which gives Cartier a legitimacy as a watchmaker beyond its well earned respect for designing iconic timepieces.

The Calibre de Cartier came out in 2010 on the leather strap, offered in stainless steel, steel with rose gold bezel, or all rose gold, and bracelet models followed in 2011.  In 2013 Cartier brought out the Calibre de Cartier Chronograph, with movement 1904-CH MC:

At SIHH 2014 Cartier introduced the Calibre de Cartier Diver, a piece that received a lot of buzz, and which is now entering dealer channels. I have found it to be more impressive in person than in the photos I had previously seen. 

Like the inaugural Calibre de Cartier, the Diver model comes in stainless steel, steel with a rose gold bezel, or an all gold case. The bezel on all models is ADLC finished steel, and the triangle of the rotating bezel is luminous. (When you get the chance to handle the Diver, please make sure to test the bezel as it has a wonderful feel and sound). The crown screws down.

The water resistance of the Diver has been augmented to 300 meters from the 30 meters of the Calibre de Cartier. In keeping the Diver thin (it is only 11 mm thick, just 1 mm thicker than the base Calibre), Cartier made the case back solid steel (if you need to see the 1904 MC you need only look for photos of it on this forum!)

True to all diver design watches, the dial is black, but it keeps with the codes set down by the original Calibre de Cartier. The most notable feature is the Superluminova ring around the small seconds sundial. 

The Calibre de Cartier Diver is very comfortable on the rubber strap. The buckle is a robust tang design.

Here in North America, the versions with the bracelet are expected to be in dealer showcases in June.

Like with most diver watches, I doubt most people who purchase the Calibre diver will be going underwater with it. But watch buyers do appreciate the fact that the watch they purchase is robustly designed. 

With the Calibre designs in general I think that Cartier is succeeding in making a fine watch for gentlemen. With the Diver I think that Cartier has made a truly outstanding luxury sport watch.

Bill