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Breguet

Extra-flat vs. Ultra flat

 

Hi Nico


Well time for two watchmaking definitions.  First "ultra-flat".  These are watches where the case is used as a functional part of the movement.  Of course, this makes the watches with this construction thinner.  However, ultra-flat movements have not enjoyed a reputation for reliability.  There simply is too much of a chance that there will be enough flex in the caseback to affect the running of the movement (think of it:  when the movement is separate from the case, it is protected from flexing forces, which is not true of the case itself).  

Extra-flat has a circular definition in the Berner watchmaking dictionary.  Extra-flat means "a movement that is extra-flat".  How about that for an elightening definition!  

By all standards of flat construction the Breguet tourbillon is extraordinary.  The movement is 3 mm thick.  Remember it is an automatic movement with a tourbillon and power reserve.  Compare this to other extra flat automatic movements:  The thinnest automatic movement was a Breguet movement (no longer in production which was 2.10 mm; then there was the trio of the caliber 71, 1120 and 240 all of which were 2.4 mm thick (respectively Breguet; AP/JLC/VC; and PP).  Then there was Piaget at 2.35 mm.  But all these are comparisons with time only automatic movements with short power reserves and low frequency.  At just .6 mm greater thickness the Breguet movement offers automatic winding, a tourbillon, a power reserve indication, a high frequency and a long power reserve!!!  Seen in perspective this is a completely ground breaking movement.

The total watch is 7 mm thick. That really is very very thin.  Breguet could have made it thinner if it had been willing to sacrifice aesthetics.  But that was out of the question.  So the watch has a solid gold dial, classic coin edge case, etc.

Jeff

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