Ornatus-Mundi
[Zenith]
7136
The Academia Collection
Also, the Academia collection received updates in dials and materials.
Academia Mirabilis
This watch with its partly open-worked dial has already been presented last year (more on its gestation here ) but now comes in additional and more contrasty colour versions. We were shown the chocolate one (well, a second 'sweet' novelty at DW this year)...
“The Academia Mirabilis reveals a part of its secrets at the end of the day when the noise and stress give way to silence and peace. Like a night flower that opens at dusk, the subtly designed open-work between 7 and 12 draws the eye into the heart of this watch. The delicacy of the gears, the finely sanded surface of the bottom plate and the hand-finished details all evoke a bed of vibrant, fragile flowers.” (Press Kit 2012)
It has a very philosophical approach to watch design. Precisely telling the time when it is needed, revealing its vivid (-> escapement window!) and more relaxed facets in respect to chronometry once the work day has come to a close:
The dial derives its great appeal through a combination of organic skeletonisation...
... and stringent concentric and radial guillochage:
The sunray stripes extend to the case design as they define the width of the columns. What a personality!
Flipping it over we discover the automatic movement. No, this is not an ETA, this is a Concepto movement:
Let's see some action! It takes a couple of wristshots to exemplify how the changes in the dial - towards a more pronounced contrast - benefitted the watch:
The rubber strap btw is new as well and is not only comfortable but also tasty: smells nicely of vanilla!
The rubber strap btw is new as well and is not only comfortable but also tasty: smells nicely of vanilla!
Academia Tourbillon Force Constante Joallerie
The next one is everything but not boring, for sure. It is clearly not made for Mr. & Mrs. Smith as it is bold and colourfull. But the cocktail out of interesting complication, awesome dial, selected gemstones and pure DeWitt DNA is very well crafted and balanced - for what it is. The final product is just marvellous and even when we don´t have that many occasions to wear it, we definetely would love to wear it from time to time - believe it or not 
The watch shows a clearly structured dial...
... top time indication...
... and bottom time regulation: the force constante (left) and the flying tourbillon (right) mechanisms, respectively:
The guillochage - like the overall dial - is of exquisite quality and is done entirely in-house. This is a prerequisite for the creativity that Mr de Witt demonstrates with his creations. Depending on the incidence of light the dial shows horizontal and vertical double-W structures:
The case work and particularly the gem-setting are of equally exquisite design and execution. It really pays off to delve deep into the fantastic details:
The case band is entirely set with baguettes which here replace the distinctive columns.
Even the lugs are covered all around:
... as well as the clasp:
... and the crown of course. Note the alternating baguettes and classical stones with each rim:
Overall, the watch really sparkles with light:
The movement is a 72-hour handwound in-house movement with quite an architectural plate design:
As you really can imagine all these detail are a stage for a dramatic and enthralling light-show:
Academia Tourbillon Impérial
This complicated watch follows Mr de Witt’s romantic idea of placing the passing of time side by side to the counting, the one is a calendar with moonphase and out of reach and not to be influenced; the other, a split-seconds chronograph, being at your mercy and only waiting to be suspended at will. Above all reigns a wonderful tourbillon.
The watch was presented at last year's Basel show and now is finally ready for the market. It underwent quite some changes since then:
2012:
2013:
New are both design and materials. The dial has been simplified and now has less layers and different elements. The lower part has been closed and of course the overall colour scheme has shifted towards colder paintings. Furthermore, instead of a a red gold case the new one comes in light titanium which should make for a significant weight reduction (this watch has a 46mm diameter).
The tourbillon with its sapphire front 'bridge' tricks you into thinking it was a flying one, but it is not. The well-dimensioned ruby bearing is the strongest hint:
The following image makes it clear that the chronograph is not a simple one...
Its a split-seconds one which makes a look at the back of the watch even more tempting - more further down! In addition to the rattrapante seconds it counts up to 30 min:
The lower part is reserved for a moonphase cum date indication.
Different to most moonphases on the market the subdial in this one gives the impression of a landscape upon which the moon is shining:
The watch naturally has a certain thickness but this is well balanced in overall design:
The crown carries the split-seconds pusher. Pushers and crown are made in white gold.
The movement - excellently finished Concepto movement with in-house modification (covered with snow ;-)).
Wearing the watch is an interesting experience - only then it reveals its personality!
The inclusion of the 'beard' both sides of the moonphase proves that somebody has a deep understanding of design and art...
It comes with a titanium folding clasp which we did not find very comfortable, though:
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-03-23 02:26:42
Available on the marketplace
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