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Baselworld/SIHH

Our Conclusion

 

DeWitt has a remarkably concise collection with one very present denominator: the use of 'imperial columns' as the
dominating design element. The differences between the collection - the Concept Watches not included! - are subtle.
Thus the question arises whether the division into separate collections makes sense at all.


In short - we this yes it does! Here we try to explain this:


The Twenty-8-Eight Collection

Here the columns are more restrained and overall the watches emphasise plane above strong vertical elements.
This leaves room for tiny details for which the new Tourbillon is an excellent example. Despite all its complexity the
watch does not shout, and even in its unusual colour it is very wearable.


In a similar vein lies the Automatic . It is a very playful watch on the second - closer - view and exhibits refinement in detail
(the gorgeous guilloche dial!) that is not importunate. Just like bespoke suit and shoes are not for the fashion addict but
more for the connoisseur.



The Academia Collection:

A very graphic, intensely strong collection. Contrasts are executed in colour, dimension and surface composition. Take
for example the Mirabilis . The watch lives of stark contrasts which are well embedded in a concise concept. It makes for
a highly visible presence. The watch is certainly not eligible for business purposes. It is a watch for the after-hours, when
pleasure and indulgence abound.




The Academia collection is well-suited for complicated watches, i.e. watches that are not shy of complexity. The feat
here is to achieve a well-designed balance. The Tourbillon Impérial is one example which unifies a strong dial,
multiple complications and a very technical case into a compelling timepiece. Not one element unduly dominates the
others. This makes the level of complexity more accessible (in an intellectual context) and certainly will extend the
pleasure derived from such a watch.




The collection also tolerates if very few very strong elements are mixed. The Tourbillon Force Constante Joallerie is
a point in case.  Diamonds, a complicated and open-worked escapement and masterful guillochage are composed into
a really amazing timepiece. As watch collectors/admirers we a quick to disapprove to jewellery pieces (often 'rightfully' so)
but this here is in a class of its own.




The New Academia collection:

This collection is the great news this winter. It is aimed to open the manufacture to new customers. As such the price point
is lower an some accommodations had to be made (see the presentation). The two watches presented so far are 'light'
watches in the sense that they do not come with a heavy watchmaking 'ballast' but tick all the boxes which makes them true
'DeWitts'. This also makes them easy to appreciate and in turn these are the perfect pieces if one is bound to enjoy a vibrant
night in town.




Finally our individual and personal opinions:

Oliver - "Passion and cordiality is probably their key/secret", that´s what came to my mind at our Basel visit in 2012. There have been some changes for De Witt recently, but passion and cordiality still seems to be strong. The collection we saw was consistent like never before and the strong DNA shown is a pleasure to look at. Congrats to Mr. De Witt and his team!

Magnus - as much as I like novel watches, complications, movements etc. I am really interested when it comes to small evolutions and enhancements. This is where a brand can really demonstrate its dedication to a collection and/or a specific watch. Without this I think no Patek Calatrava, no Rolex Submariner and no Omega Speedmaster would enjoy the status they enjoy these days. So, during SIHH I was treated royally by DeWitt. 

For me a highlight was the diamond-studded Tourbillon Force Constante Joallerie - yes, this one! Here the manufacture demonstrates what it takes to transform the word 'audacity' into a real object. For me its just such a well-done implementation of an extraordinary watch that trickles many senses but does not fail in any aspect. The Mirabilis just has grown stronger with the new stark dial. As for the New Academia I will have to let it sink a bit, I cannot make my personal judgement on this collection now. For me its lacks still a bit of decisive elements to make is a compelling buy. But then again these were prototypes.


This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2013-03-23 02:29:19

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