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The Audemars Piguet 14790ST Military Dial – Why It’s Special (IMHO)
Wanted to share some thoughts (and feelings) on one of the most exciting Royal Oaks in my collection: the Audemars Piguet 14790ST sporting the rare Arabic/Military dial. This mid-size 36mm reference has been getting more love lately, but the military dial variant really stands out for those who appreciate the quirky, unusual parts of AP’s history.
The Origin Story
The 14790 reference was AP’s answer to collectors who wanted the legendary Royal Oak design in a more wearable size, with the same impeccable finishing and design DNA. Produced from the early 1990s into the 2000s, the 14790 came in a wild range of dial and metal variations, but the military dial (made roughly in the D & E serial series) is one of its rarest birds.
What makes it tick? The dial features bold, blocky white Arabic numerals on a matte black base, paired with sword-shaped, lume-filled hands and a seconds hand with an arrow tip. The look takes cues from classic military watches—no tapisserie pattern here!—and feels like AP let its hair down for a short-run, never-to-be-repeated experiment.
Why be interested?These military/Arabic dial 14790s weren’t made in big numbers, and Audemars Piguet has never brought the configuration back. Many collectors spend years hunting for one in good condition. The dial was manufactured by Stern Création, the same famed dialmaker who worked on the original Nautilus and Royal Oak references—big heritage for such a left-field variant.
Beyond rarity, these watches wear beautifully. At 36mm and just over 8mm thick, they are thin and elegant—never too flashy or bulky. The details, especially the crisp numerals and sword hands, have a charm reminiscent of vintage tool watches, but with Royal Oak sophistication.
Passion Points:
- The quiet, almost “stealth” luxury of the midsize Royal Oak.
- The creative, collector-favorite military dial—unique among Royal Oaks.
- AP’s commitment to variation—over 12 years of mid-sized Royal Oak production, with plenty of quirky dials, but few as cool or mysterious as this.
- The way this watch slides under the radar but still rewards close inspection.
If you love Royal Oak history or are searching for that special twist on an icon, the 14790ST Military Dial has serious collector soul. Would love to hear from anyone else with one, or thoughts on “the hunt” for rare AP dials—let’s keep the love for this one alive!