Audemars Piguet

Dino944
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Gold Watches...

Hi Thurgood,

Again I am glad to help.  No need to thank me, we all come to this forum to learn and exchange ideas.  Actually, in answering some of your questions it helps me to think about my own collection and how it got to be as it is, and where changes could or should be made.

I personally find that the right gold watch can work on a person of nearly any age.  I'm 41 and I determined about 10 years ago, that as I did not have a gold watch, I really should have one.  I had owned a steel and gold Submariner many years ago, a steel and gold Daytona, and even a white gold Daytona on a strap.  Each of those watches is long gone (and was gone by the time I decided I needed an all gold watch).  To me, a steel and gold watch just is not a substitute for an all gold piece.  If you want something very subdued, you can go with white gold but for me, even though its heavier and more valuable, it just did not feel different enough from steel to justfiy its cost.  So at age 31 I determined I really should own an all gold watch in rose gold or yellow, preferably a dress watch as I did not own a dress watch on a strap. 

I think you need to determine what your needs are.  I have three true dress watches in gold on straps.  I also have an all gold Daytona on a gold bracelet.  Obviously, its not a true dress watch, but its a bit dressier than steel, and a lot blingier than steel or a gold watch on a strap.  There is just something loud and brash about a chunky gold watch on a heavy gold bracelet, but it is fun to wear at times.  However, I think a true dress watch in yellow or rose gold on a strap is something that every guy in their late twenties or older should have if they have the means to purchase one. 

This brings up the quesiton, what do you like for a gold color.  Yellow is quite traditional.  However, I generally favor pink or rose gold.  You should be aware there is a color scale for gold.  The color of gold varies with the metal that its alloyed with, and in an 18Kt gold watch 25% what the gold is alloy.  Perhaps the best way to discuss is that 18Kt gold is 75% pure gold, hence many companies mark 18KT gold with the number 750 (as its 750 parts per 1000 gold), 14kt gold is 58.5% pure gold, and most jewelry grade Platinum is 95% percent pure hence its marked 950 parts per 1000 pure.  As you know gold is soft and very and the alloys help make gold durable enough to wear on a regular basis.  Now back to color, white gold is generally alloyed with nickel, silver, or other white metals.  Pink or rose are generally alloyed with copper.  As mentioned earlier there is color scale.  3N is yellow gold, 4N is pink gold (has a hint of pink), 5N is rose gold (a slightly deeper pink), and I getting even redder in color you would have 6N which is called red gold.  Depending on the company there are different tones or shades of pink and rose.  Sometimes 4n is so lightly pink that it looks yellow unless placed next to a yellow gold watch.

I generally prefer pink or rose gold for a watch.  I find them a little less brassy and maybe better suited for people that might be younger.  My father likes yellow gold watches, so maybe thats why I tend to associate yellow gold with a slightly older generation.  However, yellow vs. pink/rose gold is all personal preference. 

As for brands or watches to consider, I think it depends on what you really like or want in a watch.  Do you want a round watch, square, rectangular, some other shape?  A manual wind watch or an automatic?  Do you have a favorite brand that is not represented in your collection?  What type of budget will you set (which may not depend so much on how much money you have, but more on how often you think you will wear it...and keep in mind dress watches are great for weddings etc, but if you buy one that is not too ornate, you can also dress it down and wear it during the week with more casual clothes)?.   

I know this is an AP forum, but I generally am not attracted to their dress watches (at least not their current models), but if you are then go check them out!  For dress watches, so far I have favored non-round shapes.  For me they feel much more different than my daily wears not just because they are gold and my daily pieces are steel, but also because my daily wearers are round, and my dress watches are square, rectangular and asymetric.  I think for now some of my favorite dress watches are as follows the Piaget Altiplano (manual wind with small seconds at 10 o'clock...it is probably my favorite round dress watch at the moment ...and it makes me seriously consider getting a round dress watch at some point).  For a rectangular watch, I am a huge fan of the Cartier Tank XL.  It just was released as an ultra thin manual wind in pink gold and its really a great piece.  Very thin, but not a small watch, the dimensions are overall quite nice if you have a medium to large wrist.  If you like unusual shapes, the Piaget Emperador is an interesting shape.  ITs available in different sizes and with different functions.  I also think Piaget is one of the nicest and largely under appreciated brands.  They make fantastic pieces,their movements are made in house and often their watches cost a fraction of what a similar piece by Patek would cost.  JLC also makes some beautful dress watches, be it from their Reverso collection or their Master series...personally if going with a JLC I would get something from the Reverso collection.  If you are interested in Pateks and don't have one you could look at the Calatravas.  There are many variations.  I find them a bit overpriced, and sometimes a bit too old looking for me, but they maintain their value very well and are always very popular. 

I hope this gives you some guidance and some food for thought about gold watches.  I have focused more on dress pieces, although as mentioned, a sports watch in all gold (with or without a gold bracelet can be a cool and fun piece to have).  Although, again I think if you don't have a good all gold dress watch you probably should make that your next objective after your AP chronograph.  I usually, like to get to know my watches so I don't tend to buy them within short periods of time.  I think sometimes if you buy a several watches per year you don' have the same bonding, appreciation, or fun with a watch as you do if you give yourself time to appreciate and get over the newness of a watch so that you come to see and understand its nuances.  But thats just my 2 cents.

I don't want to go too far off the AP subject since this is an AP forum, but if you wish to further discuss dress watches or other maybe non-AP related topics, please feel free to email or PM me.  I'm always happy to discuss both AP and non-AP related watch issues. 

Best regards,

Dino

Below are a few photos of my dress watches.  Hope you enjoy.