foversta
[PuristSPro Moderator]
20814
Let's start the year with the most logic complication in this period: the perpetual calendar
The Perpetual Calendar is one of the fav complications from Lange. It
can be found in several models, most of them using the big date display.
But when the 1815 Rattrapante PC was unveiled, Lange & Söhne
has started to use a different way to display the date by using a hand
in a subdial. Lange offers distinct dial lay-outs to display the
Perpetual Calendar data, the most traditional in the Lange environment
comes from the Langematik Perpetual.
The most
original lay-outs are offered by the dials of the Richard Lange
Terraluna and the Lange One Perpetual Tourbillon. The latter features an
unique, in the Lange context, peripheral months display based on a
rotating disk which jumps instantaneously at the end of the
month... like the other displays. The months are displayed by a window
on the Terraluna dial.
What is my fav watch of this
selection? It is without any doubt the first one, the Langematik
Perpetual. I find it the most practical since it combines the big date
display and an automatic movement. You may argue that the Lange One
Tourbillon does the same. Yes but there is also a tourbillon and this
addition makes the Lange One very expensive. And the Langematik also has
a winning point: the automatic movement is the Sax-O-Mat with the 3/4
rotor while the winding mass of the Lange One is a central
one.
In the end, the big asset of the Lange
Manufacture is to be able to offer these different ways to master the
complication and whatever are your tastes, it is almost mandatory for
you to find an appealing Perpetual Calendar
watch!
Let's have a close look on each
one.
We forget it very often but this
Langematik Perpetual features a clear
day&night display which is very useful when it comes to set the
time and the Perpetual Calendar data (the tiny hand found is some other
pieces is also very convenient). It offers the traditional Lange way to
display the information with a large date on top of the dial (the date
is the most important display in a Perpetual Calendar watch since all
the other displays are used to set the correct date). I have a soft spot
for this watch and its beautiful movement. Of course, its performances
are not at the same level than with a more contemporary movement: for
example, the power reserve is only at 46 hours what can be considered as
low according to today's standards and especially for a Perpetual
Calendar watch. But who cares? In a collector's point of view, the
practical side is not the most important. The beauty of the movement and
its consistency with the spirit of the Manufacture are more important.
And the Sax-O-mat remains the most beautiful automatic movement from the
Lange manufacture. The case is very balanced with a 38,5mm
diameter. It is the reason why I find the watch elegant on the wrist and
the dial lay-out close to perfection.
The
1815 PC Chronograph is a bit the opposite watch:it
is large (41,9mm), it displays the date with a hand and it is powered by
a handwind movement. However the power reserve remains low (42 hours)
and it becomes here a more salient issue because a winder can't be used.
Anyway, this 1815 is a gorgeous piece. First of
all, I like its pocket watch spirit enhanced by the very classic dial
lay-out. The chronograph data are well integrated on the dial and I like
the way the minutes counter and the power reserve are located on top of
the dial. They are after all very useful indications. The rattrapante
pusher is on the left case side.
The movement
organization is distinct from the DS one: the bridges seem to be flatter
and I don't experience the same feeling of depth. But it is, like any
Lange chronograph movement, a pure feast for the
eyes.
The
Richard Lange Terraluna is a very specific watch in this
selection. To be honest, when it was released, I fell totally in love.
But I am less convinced now. It is obviously an impressive piece with a
spectacular caseback, unique in the Lange context. But I find now its
dial a bit too confusing (despite the use of a large date) and the case
is very thick (16,5mm) for a 45,5mm diameter. This watch is not for the
small boys and it is also very heavy.
Having said
that, I recommend it for those who look for a powerful design. Moreover,
this watch features the largest power reserve from Lange (14 days) if I
put aside the Lange 31 days which needs a key to be wound. The leap
year is indicated by a window.
The
Lange One Tourbillon PC is another big piece even if
I find it quite reasonnable compared to the Terraluna. After all, its
case diameter (41,9mm) and thickness (12,2mm) are not so large
considering the gathering of complications. This watch introduced the
instantaneous jumping date system and since it is a Perpetual Calendar
piece, it did the same with the other displays.
The
watch is powered by an automatic movement with a central rotor. This
type of movement was mandatory due to the presence of the tourbillon on
the back. A movement based on the Sax-O-Mat was not possible and the
winding mass had to overlap the full surface. It is not a surprise: the
dial lay-out is similar to the Lange One Daymatic with the time display
on the right and the days display on the left. The peripheral months
display makes us think about the cities of reference of the second
timezone of the Lange One timezone. It also jumps instantaneously at the
end ot the month and this feature required an exclusive development of
the movement: the system saves the energy which is demanded to make the
disk rotate and releases it at once without disturbing the timekeeping
of the watch.
The power reserve is not very large (50
hours) but a winder can be used.
Back
to a more classic display with the Datograph
Perpetual. We recognize the Langematik Perpetual one even if
the chronograph data were added. The second hand moved to the left
subdial and the minutes counter was added around the right subdial. On
the downside, I don't like the "isolated" small moonphase display and I
would have loved a larger opening.
The case diameter
is 41mm and the thickness is 13,5mm (which is just 0,4mm more than the
Datograph Up & Down case). The power reserve is low (36 hours)
and I would have expected to see Lange to apply the power reserve
enlargement of the Datograph also on this piece. My fav version is the
white gold one with slate grey dial and I consider it among the most
appealing Lange watches.
The
Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon offers similar
proportions with a 41,5mm diameter and a thickness of 14,6mm. The dial
lay-out is also identical even if the day&night and the leap
year indicators are not displayed exactly the same way. The key feature
of the watch is the movement which was fully redesigned in order to
integrate the tourbillon by keeping a very close case size to the
Datograph Perpetual One.
I
would like to finish this selection by the latest handwerkskunst piece
from the Manufacture. It is not the first time a Perpetual Calendar
watch is offered in the handwerkskunst context (the Lange One Tourbillon
was previously subject to this decorative approach) and I was a bit
afraid by the outcome when I learnt that an 1815 Rattrapante PC
handwerkskunst would be released. But Lange did a great job
especially dial side and on the movement: let's say I'm not a fan of the
decoration and the aesthetic style of the lid.
This
watch gives another proof that the Perpetual Calendar is a significant
complication for the Lange team.
So
with an automatic or a handwind movement? Accompanied with other
complication or alone with the time display? With reasonnable case sizes
or with larger cases? With a large date display or with a hand? Lange
offers a lot of possibilities and maybe the SIHH 2018 would offer a new
Perpetual Calendar piece? Honestly, I have no clue and maybe it will not
be the case but considering the manufacture skills on this
complication, I would not be surprised to see a new member to this
family of Perpetual Calendar pieces. And if not, I have to confess that
the range is already very versatile and wide!
I wish
you a very happy new year and I hope that new Lange pieces will join
your collections!
Fr.Xavier
Let's start the year with the most logic complication in this period: the perpetual calendar
The thing is that, for a perpetual calendar, if you want to have some legibility, a 40 mm case mininum is important in my opinion.
The Lange One Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is definitely my favourite among the Lange PC collection
Agree with this.
I tend to agree
