Vacheron Constantin

Survey of the Patrimony Contemporaine Retrograding Day and Date

 

In my continuing tour of Vacheron Constantin's Patrimony Contemporaine line, I'd like to look at the Retrograding Day and Date, reference 86020. This is the largest of the Contemporaine models, with a diameter of 42.5 mm, and when it first came out in 2007 I thought it was way too large for a dress watch! Like many collectors, however, this size is something I have gotten used to and appreciate and wouldn't want in any other way!

Vacheron Constantin has employed the retrograding date display in the past. In The World of Vacheron Constantin we see a photo of a special watch from 1936 which combines the retrograding date with day (as well as with minute repeater).


Collectors had to wait until 2000 to see the retrograding date show up again in a wristwatch, when it appeared in the reference 47245, the "31-Day Retrograding Calendar Watch. The case was 37 mm in diameter, and the lugs alluded to a design from the 1950's. It was available in rose or white gold with a silver dial, or in platinum with a black dial. The base movement was a JLC 889 to which Vacheron Constantin created the calendar complications.


In 2002, for the 247th anniversary of the brand, Vacheron Constantin created a limited edition watch (247 pieces) in platinum that had an open dial, showcasing the retrograding mechanism as well as special finishing on the mainplate.


The first couple of years of catalog production of the Retrograding Day and Date's existence saw this watch offered only in rose gold and the silver dial. To date there is not a "boutique edition" in rose gold with the black dial, though there is no doubt in my mind that it would be both attractive and successful.

There were a couple of limited edition models, however. 35 pieces in platinum with a ruthenium colored face was made for Singapore retailer Cortina to celebrate its 35th anniversary.


In 2008, Vacheron Constantin released a limited edition of the 86020 as part of the Excellence Platine collection. This photo does not do justice to how beautiful this watch is. The blued steel pointer hand are stunning against the ghostly grey sandblasted finish of the platinum dial.


Finally, at SIHH 2010, Vacheron Constantin brought out a white gold version with a silver dial to complement the rose gold timepiece:



The Patrimony Contemporaine Retrograding Day and Date uses Vacheron Constantin's in-house automatic caliber 2460 R31 R7, which has earned the Geneva Hallmark. The exquisite finishing seen through the case back:


is matched by the unseen finishing of the retrograding calendar mechanism under the dial:


We can only hope that there will be an open dial limited edition to complement the sought after 47247!


Bill

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