Ornatus-Mundi
[Zenith]
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Being exposed to the genius of the creator - Can you stand it?
Hi Daniel
my take on addressing your problem is to ask you to consider the aspect of appreciating the degree of involvement of the watches' creator(s). While generally the directness of this involvement is reciprocal to the size of a company, it is one of the particular assets of an independent watchmaker. An asset that may be the decisive factor in a purchase decision.
But even with the range of independents there are differences. I am not going to present ranks here - this is beyond the point of this threat - but I would like to highlight in a few examples (which are meant simply as representatives) several aspects of involvement.
First, I'd like to mention Maria-Kristina and Richard Habring, the couple behind the only truly Austrian watches. Their commitment to the personal interaction is legendary as is their openness to customisation requests. This makes the future owner of a Habring2 a 'co-creator'.
As several others in this field pointed out, they believe in 'life-long learning', exemplified through the expressly encouraged future upgradability of their watches:
To understand their watches it is necessary to understand that the Habrings made the conscious choice to produce them in Austria, a company that has no (recent) indigenous watchmaking tradition. Austria however was good in exporting excellent watchmakers, like Thaddeus Winnerl (created the first chronograph in 1831, and a split-second mechanism for chronographs in 1838, both in Paris), and more recently Bernhard Zwinz and of course Richard Habring himself. The distance from the Swiss watchmaking centres is in my opinion one important element that allows the Habrings to concentrate on realising their horological vision - and of course it helps gaining attention!
Please read ztirual's recent article: click here
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Next, I'd like to introduce Paul Gerber - many of you know of my friendship with Paul and his wife Ruth, and I already reported many times about his timepieces.
The reason why I am listing him is because of his immense attention to the detail, and his ability to use space that others would consider inaccessible. Both characteristics require one thing: the desire to succeed as well as the means and the stamina to achieve.
Paul once told me that he does not want to grow in terms of numbers, but in terms of watchmaking excellence. In respect to the latter he can be outright stubborn (neatly concealed in his amiable personality), a feature I experienced more than once - again, this is a token for involvement! It goes so far that he goes back and forth from drawing board to lathe and CNC machine until he is satisfied - which can take some iterations!
I strongly advise to read Andrew's fascinating review on Paul's PuristS 10th Anniversary watch Model 42 (click here) as well as Don Corson's report from a visit in Paul's atelier (click here). I cannot think of better introductions to Paul and his philosophy!
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Now let's continue out path outside Switzerland, to a country that again is devoid of a true watchmaking tradition - Spain. The Atelier Pita is another example that in fact merges the respective strengths of Maria-Kristina and Richard Habring as well as Paul Gerber.
Establishing itself in a horological diaspora, without formal training, a supporting industrial structure or substantial financial backing - there are surely easier ways to support a living. It is exactly this that attests for the desire to create and the personal involvement of the creator. In this case, it is clearly visible in the idiosyncratic products:
Again, I would like to point to an outstanding article - this time published by Kevin: click here
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Now, where does this leave us with Ochs und Junior? For me the question has to be rephrased: How much are you prepared to confront yourself with an undiluted, unfiltered, direct expression of a genius' mind? Attention, it can be disturbing!
Ochs und Junior are different to 'high horology' in almost every aspect.
To most of us Ludwig Oechslin, the mastermind of Ochs und Junior, is already well-known with his astronomic complications realised with Ulysse Nardin. However - and herein lies the danger! - if one takes these watches as a reference point for Ochs und Junior, one is in for a thorough surprise!
Ochs und Junior watches are more radical, more true to Ludwig's comprehensive vision - aesthetically, technically, and also in terms of implementation. OuJ was different, pure machinery without much embellishment, a production quality that should speak for itself. Technically, even more reduced to the bare maximum (only three moving parts in the annual calendar etc.).
The engineering quality required that solutions outside the watch industry were selected. This was necessary in order to avoid a dilution of Oechslin's concept. The case and gears, for example, are produced in a workshop that specialised in manufacturing engine parts for Formula 1 cars.
Let me repeat it: Ochs und Junior watches sparkle the involvement of Ludwig Oechslin in the purest possible sense. Considering this, they are very intellectual - you need to understand the mind of the genius to appreciate the watches, you cannot rely on watchmaking proxies like finishing, in-house movements etc.
I do not want to get more into detail here. A link to a recent article of mine shall suffice (click here).
In fact, Ochs und Junior move brand identity to a new level, involving all senses - but more on this is a future post!
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Shall I mention Volker Vyscocil? A watch that will be uncompromised to the extreme... one day;-)! Many people complain about the permanent postponements, but I am sure that in terms of involvement is will be unparalleled by a large margin. But will there be people who understand?
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So where do we stand? Difficult to say, it depends. Independents are not a safe bet, they require a more intense examination by the potential buyers. Not only in terms of the watches themselves, but also (and moreover) in terms of the readiness to delve directly into the world of human beings expression their creativity.
Thus - its a two-way involvement: yours as well!
There is no other conclusion!
Cheers,
Magnus
fixed html -AT
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2011-08-31 07:54:07
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Being exposed to the genius of the creator - Can you stand it?
Hi Daniel my take on addressing your problem is to ask you to consider the aspect of appreciating the degree of involvement of the watches' creator(s) . While generally the directness of this involvement is reciprocal to the size of a company, it is one o...
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