Chopard

MTF
[PuristS]
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Baselworld 2017: Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Platinum perpetual calendar watch

Perpetual Moonlight on Platinum

As a pre-Baselworld 2017 trade show tease, I am pleased to reveal the new flagship model of L.U.C Lunar One in a 100-piece limited edition.

Chopard’s perpetual calendar model with astronomical moon-phase display has already won accolades including the PuristSPro Purity Prize in 2009.

I even put my money where my mouth is with this lovely white gold version....

L.U.C Lunar One Mk I white gold

L.U.C Lunar One platinum

This 2017 novelty is encased in 950 platinum around a deep blue, sunray-patterned dial. One of Chopard's visions of highest horological complexity is reinvented with a rare, precious and extremely elegant interpretation, highlighting Geneva Seal.  First revealed in 2005, the L.U.C Lunar One has become the stellar model in the Chopard Haute Horlogerie collection. Its perpetual calendar display with large date and moon-phase indicator demonstrates the full range of watchmaking skills propagated at Chopard and pays tribute to the deepest principles of the L.U.C aesthetic.

This classic gentlemanly model, governed by strident rules of symmetry and optimal legibility that results in perfect balanced appearance, is introduced this year, in platinum.

L.U.C Lunar One Mk II platinum

L.U.C Lunar One design

A PuristS watch for purist connoisseurs

Distinguished by balanced proportions and excellent elegance, the L.U.C Lunar One watch is designed for daily wear.

I found it unlike many perpetual calendar wristwatches because it is perfectly legible despite multiple indications. The fine finishing and masterful, classic play on colours and textures makes it a PuristS masterpiece.

It is also known as "The Presidents' Watch" within Chopard because both Karl Scheufele III and his son, Karl-Friedrich, use one as their daily watches.

Of course, PuristS recognised it with the PuristSPro Purity Prize 2009.

L.U.C Lunar One design

Its special status within the L.U.C collections led Chopard to offer the L.U.C Lunar One in this exceptional platinum flavour: 100-piece limited series with a 950 platinum case.

The 43 mm-diameter case has the L.U.C signature vertical satin-brushed sides along with polished bezel and lugs, for pleasing contrast of texture to enhance its visual depth and interest.

The dark, neutral grey colour of platinum is complemented with chic royal blue dial that is trending today.

L.U.C Lunar One Mk II platinum

The L.U.C Lunar One is revered for its multi-level dials.

A sun-ray pattern radiates from the L.U.Chopard logo positioned at 12 o'clock. This signature motif of the L.U.C collection naturally draws your gaze, appearing in a light penumbra that stands out from the rest of the dial. The perpetual calendar indications appear on a lower level, surrounded by bevelled frames that make them "pop". 

The fonts are white to ensure perfect readability while the large applied Roman numerals with Chopard distinctive font are mirror-polished.

A deep blue sky, flecked with the actual star positions of the Northern Hemisphere, also features a moon phase display for poetry amongst the stars.

L.U.C Lunar One platinum

Moved by Haute Horlogerie

L.U.C Lunar One platinum

Calibre 96.13-L movement is a gem in the crown of Chopard Manufacture. The perpetual calendar always shows the correct date, whatever the month and all the variant lengths of quirky February.

The moon-phase display is unique as it is not merely a disc of printed different moon sizes rotating beneath the dial but a complex set of components creating the exact appearance of the moon.

This orbital moon imitates the path of our lunar companion.

Adroitly adjusted by the finest Chopard watchmakers, this display boasts astronomical precision; it takes 122 years to accumulate a one-day time lag compared to the actual moon and only then, will it require adjustment.

Calibre L.U.C 96.13-L

The L.U.C Lunar One is rare amongst perpetual calendar watches to be self-winding and even rarer with a micro-rotor.

The small but perfectly formed rotor is made of solid 22-carat gold and incorporated within the movement thickness to makes the whole assembly slimmer.

Engraved with the historical L.U.C logo and finely guilloché-worked, it epitomises the extremely sophisticated finishing lavished on calibre 96.13-L.

Calibre L.U.C 96.13-L

Embellished with bevelled bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif, circular-grained baseplate, mirror-polished steel parts and a regulator with swan’s neck adjustment, the movement meets the highest quality standards of Chopard Manufacture and also displays the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark to which Chopard has remained loyal. An independent mark of distinction and validation is still admirable when many brands are now self-validating their work.

Both aesthetic and technical certification is approved by an independent authority and governed by a law promulgated by the Canton of Geneva. It dictates the peerless criteria of excellence relating both to the case and the movement in terms of its structure, appearance and accuracy. In keeping with the decisions taken by Mr Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard and head of development at L.U.C, this precision is also certified by the COSC, the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute.

L.U.C Lunar One platinum

CONCLUSION:

I am usually loyal to my watch choices and rarely swayed by fads and fashion. Having used my L.U.C Lunar One Mk I for 7 years, I am still convinced by its preeminent status in the firmament of mechanical perpetual calendar watches...but...

I have to admit that with the advancement of aging eyesight, this new Mk II version of L.U.C Lunar One with larger and "slightly" more legible dial, especially in this gorgeous royal blue colour, comes closest to "shaking my fuzzy tree".

"All Shook Up"

A well I bless my soul
What's wrong with me?
I'm itching like a man on a fuzzy tree
My friends say I'm actin' wild as a bug
I'm in love
I'm all shook up
Mmm mmm oh, oh, yeah, yeah!

-- O. Blackwell & E. Presley

What do you think?

L.U.C Lunar One Technical Details
 
Case:
- 950 platinum
- Total diameter:      43.00 mm
- Thickness:      11.47 mm
- Water resistance:      50 m
- Platinum crown with L.U.C logo:   6.50 mm
- Vertical satin-brushed case middle
- Polished bezel and case-back
- Transparent exhibition case-back
- Glare-proofed sapphire crystal

L.U.C Lunar One Mk II platinum

Movement:
- Mechanical self-winding:     L.U.C 96.13-L
- Number of components:    355
- Diameter:       33.00 mm
- Thickness:       6.00 mm
- Number of jewels:     32
- Frequency:      28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Power reserve:      65 hours
- Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève
- Guilloché-worked micro-rotor in 22-carat gold with L.U.C logo
- Chronometer certified by the COSC
- ‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark

L.U.C Lunar One Mk II platinum

Dial and hands:
- Galvanic blue dial, sunray satin-finished pattern centred around the date
- Rhodiumed hours, minutes, day, month and small seconds hands
- Day/night and year indicated by white triangles

Functions and displays:
- Central display of the hours and minutes
- Small seconds at 6 o’clock
- Perpetual calendar with day, date, month and leap-year cycle
- Outsize date display at 12 o’clock
- Day/night indicator at 9 o’clock
- Moon phases appearing in a rotating aperture (orbital moon) at 6 o’clock

Strap and buckle:
- Hand-sewn matt blue alligator leather with brown alligator leather inner shell
- Platinum pin buckle

Ref. 161927-9001 – in platinum
100-piece limited edition

Regards

MTF

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