Zenith

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Let me wish you a sparkling 2017 with this Zenith Ladies Elite Moonphase Diamond!

2016 brought quite a handful of highlights for Zenith lovers. For this last post before we welcome a new year, I would like to present to you another outstanding watch in Zenith's œvre, the Elite Ladies Moon Phase Diamonds:



Undisputable highlights of the 2016 vintage were certainly outstanding timepieces such as the new Elite Calibre 6150 and the new pebble-shaped case, or think about the gentlemanly Heritage Pilot Ton-Up. Much less in the spotlight, Zenith has conceived a few hidden gems with superb detail work which deserve more attention than they usually get. The Zenith Ladies Elite Moonphase Diamond is one of them!

In my eyes this ladies watch represents superb jewellry artisanship combined with serious watchmaking, in a package which exudes class and utmost sophistication. Watchmaking and gemsetting cross-fertilise each other in an accomplished fashion I rarely observe; putting the final product above its peers which may top it in single aspects, but not as a whole. I will further work out the details below.

First, the new timepiece comes in the very well conceived (and received) flat and timelessly elegant Elite case, with a diameter of 36mm. Dial, bezel, lugs and case sides are elaborately set with Top Wesselton-grade diamonds, totalling to substantial 3.89 cts.



The secret of the Eilte dial's appeal is called relinquishment. The entire dial face of 674 mm^2 is covered with sparkling diamonds; with a lack of indices, inscriptions and numerals allowing the lustre of the stones to reach maximum effect.

The only interruption is the moon phase window at 6 o'clock, continuing with the diamond shine but complementing it with colour, surface polish and structural contrast.





As with other watches (look at some skeleton pieces, for example), Zenith has vapourised its logo onto the inner side of the crystal. This gives the logo a floating effect (obviously), but also separates the inscription from the dial, and therefore reduces interference with the gems below.



Looking that close, the carefully and densely set rows of diamonds appear like waves on the ocean - and ocean of light and brilliance, that is - simply wonderful!



The moon phase indication (which btw at Zenith is set via the crown, so no pusher is needed!) acts as an eye-catching counterpoint to the brilliance of the dial. Note how carefully the diamonds are selected and set so they precisely attach close to the moon phase bezel without leaving much space empty:



Quite a number of small details create the attraction amidst the jewels: there are the contrasting colours of gold on blue, the matte (and thus maximally different) surface finish of the moon phase disk, and then there is the double bezel, crafted in red gold, with a circular outer one and an inner bezel that follows the moon phase window lines:



The bezel, I believe, is a decidingly contributing element. With its depth and mirror polished groove it's a separating force with a bridging touch: it interrupts the sea of brilliant white and gives room for the astronomic complication. The light is reflected by the mirror polishing, and thus glows as intensively as the precious stones, albeit in a different fashion, colour and quality (soft instead of twinkling).

To me, this is one of the defining details of this timepiece, and one which is mainly responsible for the sheer beauty it represents.



Diamonds also cover the case band, in three separate rows: one on the bezel, and two on the slightly inward tilted case side:



The two rings around the case extend through the tips of the lugs as well.



Note how the surfaces are separated by small polished angles. Overall, I think this is exceptional goldsmith work:





The case back features two levels, an outer one in a matte finishing, and an inner one which is highly polished. Again, we notice the recurrent theme of contrasting finishings, of separation and bridging, which are so important in defining this watch. Further, they are used such that they emphasise the flatness (and thus the elegance) of the case.



The Elite Moonphase Diamond is driven by Zenith's in-house movement Cal. Elite 692, a 50h automatic movement with altogether 195 components, and the already mentioned crown-operated moon phase complication.



The movement has a diameter of 25.6 mm and fills the case nicely:



One immediately characteristic telltale sign of the movement is the automatic winding wheel which transfers the rotor's energy into the winding train. It crosses the balance wheel and thus is quite palpable:



The shot above nicely illustrates the appealing contrast between inner and outer back bezel, between polished and matte surfaces. Really an 'elite' design!

Zenith has chosen to slightly customise the rotor with a diamond-inlaid star.



The settings require some allowance on the z-axis, and thus they are deeply integrated into the rotor's base metal.



The finishing is typically Zenith, excellent down to the detail, but certainly not as elaborate as one is used from the top league of the watch market. One aspect I really love is the deep and very sharp engraving of the inscription:



It would have been inadequate (and not fair to my partner ;-)) to strap it on my wrist - so I asked my girlfriend for assistance, who surprisingly showed little resistance to my wish...



The Zenith Elite Lady's Moonphase Diamonds shows even more presence on the wrist than alone. One often says that a watch is a man's sole jewellery, but this here I think adorns a woman's wrist such that only little else is needed.



One interesting effect of the sea of diamonds on the dial is that the light can change the watch's appearance instantly: From a bright white sea of light...



... to a mysterious sparkle within a flick of a second.



Without doubt, the watch has gravitas, substance and sophistication. A very, very appropos companion for the woman of class.



Usually, I would offer a bottom-line here, summing up a piece and offering some criticism. With this watch, the latter would be entirely boring or even would not exist at all. I absolutely find no flaw in this piece, and those who know me would probably agree that this means a lot. The Elite Lady Moonphase Diamond really is a compelling offer, immensly beautiful and nicely made.

Other watches might offer more elaborated execution is certain aspects (e.g. movement finishing), but if one appreciates the entire product one cannot say anything else than that Zenith has created a feminine timepiece that features a striking balance of aesthetic, technical and jewellery accomplishment.

This is rarely achieved and not easily noticed, therefore a doubel chapeau to the manufacture in Le Locle!



All details on the Zenith Elite Ladies Moonphase Diamond (Ref. 22.2320.690/79.C713) here !

With this post, I would like to wish you all a fantastic New Year 2017, full of delight, friendship, health, peace - and watches! Thank you all for your interest, participation and support in the past year. Let's make 2017 a great year for all of us, especially for us Zenith lovers!

Cheers,
Magnus

P.S.: Thanks to Zenith HQ (Fabiana, that's you!!) and Zenith CEE (Brigitte!!!) for offering the Elite watch for a photoshoot!