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The first Patek Philippe wristwatch - 1868
This decorative watch worn on a bangle-type bracelet, the dial of which is cleverly concealed by a cover set with a large diamond, dates from 1868.
Created nearly 30 years after the founding of Patek Philippe, Czapek & Co. in 1839, it is considered the first Patek Philippe wristwatch, and even the first Swiss wristwatch.
It is on display at the Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-49.
Personal photos from the Patek Philippe Museum
The crown-operated winding and time-setting mechanism had been invented by Jean Adrien Philippe more than 20 years earlier, thus eliminating the need for a key.
Below is the oldest known example of a movement incorporating Jean Adrien Philippe's invention, dating from 1842.
Personal photos from the Patek Philippe Museum & page 11 of the book by Peter Friess “Treasures from the Patek Philippe Museum - The quest for the perfect watch” (personal copy)
The cover is enamelled in black and set with rose-cut diamonds.
The dial is made of white enamel with upright painted Breguet numerals. The Poire hands are made of blued steel.
The baguette movement requires a key to set the time and wind the mainspring.
The 6''' movement features a cylinder escapement and 8 jewels – and a beautiful Y-shaped bridge!
Page 96 of the book by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery “Patek Philippe Genève Wristwatches (second edition 1988)” (personal copy)
The watch was acquired by the Hungarian Countess Koscowicz.
In existing records, no other wristwatches are documented before the beginning of the 20th century.
Page 15 of the book by Peter Friess “Treasures from the Patek Philippe Museum - The quest for the perfect watch” (personal copy)
From that time onward, documented wristwatches were primarily decorative timepieces for ladies only.
Page 99 of the Volume I of the Patek Philippe Museum catalog (personal copy)
The conclusion is inevitable: the history of wristwatches was initially a women's story.
It was only gradually that men became passionate about this type of watch, slowly abandoning pocket watches throughout the 1920s and 30s.
credit: watchrant (1), watchart (2), personal photo (3), Wikimedia (4) & Chronology: page 10 of “Patek Philippe Steel Watches” by John Goldberger (personal copy)
Just a very interesting page of history.
I hope you weren't bored...
Thank you for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
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The first Patek Philippe wristwatch - 1868
This decorative watch worn on a bangle-type bracelet , the dial of which is cleverly concealed by a cover set with a large diamond , dates from 1868 . Created nearly 30 years after the founding of Patek Philippe, Czapek & Co. in 1839 , it is considered th...
Exactly!
And I would add that "Ladies First" shouldn't mean "Now leave it to men"! 😊😇🌸 Best, Emmanuel
What if anything was introduced in the years between 1868 and 1904?
Were there other inventions in the intervening 38 years between the PP 27368 (1868) and Cartier's Santos-Dumont (1904)? The text (in your "Historic Breakthrough" photo above) says the 27368 "...started a trend in watchmaking." It also alludes to the Carti...
Girard-Perregaux is often mentioned.
Production of men’s wristwatches for military purposes starting in 1880: https://www.collectorsweekly.com/wristwatches/girard-perregaux Best, Emmanuel ...
Strange that the G-P website doesn't mention this when you'd think that would be a historic landmark they'd like to promote.
But I'm gonna keep digging around. Thanks Emmanuel for the info. Fascinating and well researched PP history...as always!
Does GP have a true heritage department ?
It might be a part of the possible reasons… Thanks for your kind words! Emmanuel
