Comments:
Cartier is something like a synonym for refined luxury, style and elegance. In other words, its creations sell on many different aspects of the luxury trade, fine watchmaking being one of them - but not an essential one. Cartier could have lived without, certainly without high end watchmaking…
An unexpected watch for a house like Cartier, the Calibre de Cartier Diver is an addition to the successful Calibre de Cartier collection, a collection that houses a first for the brand: its first completely in-house automatic movement (more a bit below).
The Diver complies to the norm's criteria, externally visible through technical elements such as a unidirectional bezel, water-resistancy up to 300 metres, hands and dive-time indicator (unidirectional) in superluminova and a crown protector. We can only imagine the challenge of transforming the pertinent technical criteria into a piece that is a true Cartier. The brand succeeded by intelligently integrating some of its core design features, such as Roman numerals and a flanged bezel.
In our view the most convincing of the whole collection is the basic steel Diver. Steel for a tool watch and nothing else. Unpretentious, solid and wearable at most occassions. Note how the guillochage on the outer hour chapter ring adds to the overall legibility, and likewise the date opening even if the current date is covered by a hand:
Pink gold, with a seemingly lower contrast:
Dial and bezel really deserve a closer look: did you notice the tooth work inside the bezel (coated with ADLC)?
It is fluted, btw, to best follow the family spirit of the Calibre collection. Another Cartier cachet: The 'Cartier' script hidden in the 'X':
One of the most striking design decisions by Cartier is how slim this watch is. We are used to tool watches trying to express their toughness via their massive size. The Diver follows and entirely different path is as surpassingly thin and light. On the first encounter almost disturbingly light (in steel ;-)). Just look at the slender profile, its just 11 mm thick (diameter 42 mm):
Beneath the solid back plate works Cartier's in-house movement 1904 MC (the 1904 is a reference to the pioneering spirit of Louis Cartier who, in 1904, created one of the very first modern wristwatches for his friend, the pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont).
… two-tone on a bracelet ...
… or pure and simple in steel on a strap:
• True Cartier style, very versatile and executed with lots of attention to details
• Its so light and thin... - for what it is!
• Reliable and powerful manufacture movement
• Price
• Metal bracelet belongs to best in the industry, but there are still better ones ...
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire represents a new vision of the perpetual calendar thanks to the creativity of its design and its amphitheatre-style display.
• Finishing of the movement on the back looks a bit "cold" and even when it fits to the approach of Cartier in general we still could imagine something more sprecial for such a watch
Removed from its strictly horological role (balancing out the influence of gravity), a tourbillon has been incorporated into a moon phase complication, with each one dependent on the other.
The second time zone of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is indicated by a 24-hour disc beneath the time indication.
On the wrist - 47mm cast in platinum leave an expression, inevitable … Smaller is barely possible with a movement which alone has a solid 38.8 mm diameter.
The 3D character is further enhanced by the lapis lazuli dial.
Let's start with a most poetic yet at the same time practical interpretation of an astronomic watch, the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Day and Night :
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2014-02-25 00:27:38
Cartier in depth review on the collection from SIHH 2014
Cartier is something like a synonym for refined luxury, style and elegance. In other words, its creations sell on many different aspects of the luxury trade, fine watchmaking being one of them - but not an essential one. Cartier could have lived without, certainly without high end watchmaking…
Then came Louis Cartier and,
at an early stage, firmly imprinted watchmaking into the core of the
brand. His designs were legendary, inspired by the then cutting edge
technology of military and aviation machinery - and ripe enough to
develop into veritable icons:
From left the Cartier Santos (1904), the Tank (1917) and the Tortue (1929) - all of the very much alive these days!
But
the company was not content to produce jewellery, luxury goods and fine
lifestyle watches - they wanted more, they wanted to conquer the
highest summits of watchmaking...
But to be credible in the world of haute horlogerie technical expertise is not enough. There needs to be a cogent connection to the identity of your brand.
But to be credible in the world of haute horlogerie technical expertise is not enough. There needs to be a cogent connection to the identity of your brand.
What follows now is the remarkable achievement of two like-minded women.
Imagine this:
Imagine this:
Put
someone in place which is able to master all (classical) complications
of watchmaking and feels only challenged when it goes even further. In
addition you need someone with the same amount of passion, but is
“crazy” about Cartier-like details/DNA and with a strong vision for the
brand.
We are talking here about Carole Forestier-Kasapi, head of Cartier's Fine Watchmaking department, and Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, International Marketing Director of the maison.
Cartier is lucky enough to have those (at least) two people and even
better they meet (at a secret place ? ) frequently each week.
And so were we, as we were granted significant quality time with Ms Forestier-Kasapi, who explained to us the novelties in great detail and passion:
Cartier - the power house is creating novelties in large numbers and they do it every year.
We (Magnus & Oliver) would like to introduce you some of their latest pieces, but only those we have seen in the metal.
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2014-02-23 10:23:02
Hands on with Calibre de Cartier Diver
An unexpected watch for a house like Cartier, the Calibre de Cartier Diver is an addition to the successful Calibre de Cartier collection, a collection that houses a first for the brand: its first completely in-house automatic movement (more a bit below).
It developed into one of the most prominent talking pieces at SIHH...
Cartier designed the Diver
as an unmistakeably masculine watch for both everyday wear and extreme
conditions. It meets the challenge of combining Cartier's style with the
technical requirements of ISO 6425, a norm, which controls the “Diver’s
Watch” label laid down into eight criteria of reliability assessed
through a series of extremely rigorous tests.
The Diver complies to the norm's criteria, externally visible through technical elements such as a unidirectional bezel, water-resistancy up to 300 metres, hands and dive-time indicator (unidirectional) in superluminova and a crown protector. We can only imagine the challenge of transforming the pertinent technical criteria into a piece that is a true Cartier. The brand succeeded by intelligently integrating some of its core design features, such as Roman numerals and a flanged bezel.
We
were told that Cartier not only considered the optics and the movement
inside, but also texture and haptics, e.g. how the bezel turns and
clicks, how the bracelet feels and sounds. All this is technically not
necessary for a tool watch, but those are elements that differentiate a
good watch from a great watch. Quite impressive!
Cartier
offers this watch in quite some varieties, from simple steel over
two-tone finally to pink gold watches. All variations may come with a
really well done rubber strap (the vainly smell is finally back!) or with a metal bracelet.
In our view the most convincing of the whole collection is the basic steel Diver. Steel for a tool watch and nothing else. Unpretentious, solid and wearable at most occassions. Note how the guillochage on the outer hour chapter ring adds to the overall legibility, and likewise the date opening even if the current date is covered by a hand:
Pink gold, with a seemingly lower contrast:
Dial and bezel really deserve a closer look: did you notice the tooth work inside the bezel (coated with ADLC)?
It is fluted, btw, to best follow the family spirit of the Calibre collection. Another Cartier cachet: The 'Cartier' script hidden in the 'X':
One of the most striking design decisions by Cartier is how slim this watch is. We are used to tool watches trying to express their toughness via their massive size. The Diver follows and entirely different path is as surpassingly thin and light. On the first encounter almost disturbingly light (in steel ;-)). Just look at the slender profile, its just 11 mm thick (diameter 42 mm):
We
were told that the design of the horns was quite a challenge in order
to (i) allow the case to be thin but (ii) offer maximum possible wearing
comfort.
The case back is a quite simple affair:
The case back is a quite simple affair:
Consistently simple is the buckle, both in steel as well as in gold (shown here):
Beneath the solid back plate works Cartier's in-house movement 1904 MC (the 1904 is a reference to the pioneering spirit of Louis Cartier who, in 1904, created one of the very first modern wristwatches for his friend, the pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont).
First
presented in 2010, this 11 1?2 ligne calibre has been designed to
maintain perfect chronometric stability thanks to a double barrel that
guarantees excellent constancy of the mainspring torque over a long
period. Its rotor is mounted on a central ceramic ball-bearing that
gives it excellent shock-resistance and ensures its durability.
Overall, Cartier has succeeded in creating an authentic diver’s watch, without sacrificing everyday comfort on the wrist or being in clinch with the brand's core design cues. The watch falls into the growing range of watches for the lighter, joyful events in life.
Overall, Cartier has succeeded in creating an authentic diver’s watch, without sacrificing everyday comfort on the wrist or being in clinch with the brand's core design cues. The watch falls into the growing range of watches for the lighter, joyful events in life.
A
sunset scene at Portofino: moments of pleasure, light at heart,
surrounded by friendship, enjoying a fine timepiece but not having to
think about it. That's were we see this watch - either in gold with
rubber...
… two-tone on a bracelet ...
… on rubber…
Pro:
• One of the few 'luxury tool watches' that convince in refinement, aesthetics and fitness for purpose • True Cartier style, very versatile and executed with lots of attention to details
• Its so light and thin... - for what it is!
• Reliable and powerful manufacture movement
• Price
Con:
• Date window not to everyone's liking (even when it is done nicely)• Metal bracelet belongs to best in the industry, but there are still better ones ...
The Calibre Diver is one of most important watches of the SIHH
I was seduced by this watch which manages to be a diving watch while keeping all the Cartier details! A very refined diving watch.
Thanks for the article!
Fx
Thanks for the article!
Fx
+1, certainly one of the most significant watches of the show...
perhaps comparable to the new Montblanc Heritage collection.
Magnus
Cartier Calibre Diver - it's an important model for Cartier
Cartier Calibre Diver dive watch - it's an important model for Cartier, but for me, I was much more impressed by their fantastic jewelry pieces and high complications.
I'm normally not a jewelry watch aficionado but their Metier des Artes models are just spectacular.
Cartier Dive watch - well built, practical, well priced
Mind you, the Cartier Calibre Diver is well built, practical, well priced and almost for sure will be a commercial success...just not to my personal taste.
It is very handsome on the wrist...
Your fine pictures clearly reveal the weakness of the design ...
... which , IMHO, takes all the communication regarding the dive watch ISO, tool watch characteristics, etc. ad absurdum: The dial is cluttered with so many white lines, shapes and outlines, that the most important element of the watch, the hands, practically disappear. At least at a quick glance, the hands are barely visible, and one has to search for them, among all the other oversized, white design elements.Giving the hands a black finish (except the white C! SuperLuminova) does not make it easier.
It is a nice sports watch, but certainly not a tool watch, and not a diving watch. However, it is a highly attractive timepiece, and I am sure it will be hugely successful.
Marcus
It is a nice sports watch, but certainly not a tool watch, and not a diving watch. However, it is a highly attractive timepiece, and I am sure it will be hugely successful.
Marcus
Black finished hands?
Marcus
while I understand some of your criticisms (summary: 'take a toolwatch serious'; consequence: no luxury brand will ever build a 'real' one) I think you are on the wrong track re: hands: they are polished steel (or gold plated with the RG version), certainly not black. But then again: 'black polish' has a reason for its name...
I also fail to understand your comment regarding the 'many white lines' - what exactly are you referring to?
Best,
Magnus
P.S.: Yes, I also think the hands could be a bit larger.
Well, on all the pictures I saw ...
... the metallic part of the hands appear to be black, even on the PR pics, which normally tend to show the optimum, regarding contrast and legibility:
When looking at the difference between the polished end of the minute hand's pin and the hand itself, my impression of an overall black finish of the hands is further supported.
The "white lines": Generally, I meant the share and distribution of white elements on the black dial. The numerals, markers, the small second subdial and all the other white elements add to such a dominant impression of white structures and lines (escepcially the Roman numerals, which emphasize the stright lines, other than Arabic numerals), that the relatively thin, straight lines of the white SL on the hand do not stand out. You have to search them on the dial.
As I already stated: I do not want to disparage the Cartier Diver. It is a highly attractive fashion sports watch. What I do mean is, if a manufacturer talks about ISO standards for (professional) diving timepieces, tool watches, etc., then it has to accept that the product is measured against these standards.
Marcus
Hands on with Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire and Earth & Moon
This year, two timepieces illustrate the notion of technical creativity and excellence according to Cartier: the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch and the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch. Both bear the mark of an innovative and unique interpretation of their respective functions.
We'd like to start with the former, the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire :
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire represents a new vision of the perpetual calendar thanks to the creativity of its design and its amphitheatre-style display.
Arranged three-dimensionally in concentric levels, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's
display of the perpetual calendar's functions is spread over the
different levels: the day is indicated on the first. It is followed by
the month on the second, which is itself surmounted by the date. Thin
windows move along these tiers. The perpetual calendar's final function
is indicated by a hand located on the back of watch and shows what type
of year it is: a leap year or a normal year.
Designed
like an amphitheatre, with the intention of clarifying the perpetual
calendar's indications, the watch's display is an incredible watchmaking
feat. It overcomes numerous readability issues that are specific to the
traditional approach to this complication, which requires the
juxtaposition of twelve months, seven days, the date and the type of
year in a diameter of just a few centimetres.
In our discussion we could clearly sense Mrs Forestier's pride in the new Cal. 9459 MC automatic movement. And rightfully so, as it solves three major problems associated with common perpetual calendars:
In our discussion we could clearly sense Mrs Forestier's pride in the new Cal. 9459 MC automatic movement. And rightfully so, as it solves three major problems associated with common perpetual calendars:
Anticipating risk of breakage
Partially patented, the gear train system of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's
movement replaces the traditional lever and spring mechanisms with a
gear train mechanism that substantially limits the risk of breakage when
the date indications of the watch are set at inadvisable times. The
traditional design of a perpetual calendar prohibits any manual
correction several hours before and after midnight at the risk of
breaking the mechanism. The adjustments made using four minuscule
push-pieces on the side of the case are impractical and never clearly
identified.
Simplified setting using the crown
This operating problem no longer exists with the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch's movement thanks to a setting system that uses the crown.
In addition to the traditional setting of the hour and minute, the crown also controls the date and month indicators.
This
ease of use is further increased by the possibility of correcting the
functions both forwards and backwards. Wearers of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch need no longer fear going beyond the current date as this error is easily corrected.
Masterful chronometry
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch houses at its heart a flying tourbillon: a complication that is emblematic of the Fine Watchmaking collection.
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch is certified with the Poinçon de Genève, in accordance with the new regulations' requirements.
With
45mm diameter it is technically large, but Cartier's designers have
done an excellent job in concealing this fact… Various levels, finishes
and layers play giantly at stage of this theatre!
Certainly, this is a watch which deserves a dedicated article, and rest assured we are tempted ...
Pro:
• Superbly conceptualised and original astronomical timepiece
• Intuitive readability of astronomical information
• Fail-safe setting mechanism using the crown instread of a push-piece
• Outstanding dial work
• Outstanding dial work
Con:
• Readability of time compromised
• 45 mm might be too much (but understandable necessity given the technical standard of the movement)• Finishing of the movement on the back looks a bit "cold" and even when it fits to the approach of Cartier in general we still could imagine something more sprecial for such a watch
The second watch, the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch,
it diverts the tourbillon from its strictly horological role, in which
it serves as a guarantee of precision and prestige, making it the
backdrop to the moon-phase display, which has neither hand nor aperture.
Removed from its strictly horological role (balancing out the influence of gravity), a tourbillon has been incorporated into a moon phase complication, with each one dependent on the other.
Because it appears in its original form and exists only when its user wishes it to, the moon phase on the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon
watch reveals a technical creativity that is doubly innovative. By
pressing the push-button situated at four o'clock on the side of the
case, a panels descends and partially obscures the Tourbillon carriage.
The crescent thus formed reproduces exactly the moon's shape in the sky.
The second time zone of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is indicated by a 24-hour disc beneath the time indication.
At
the heart of the timepiece lies the completely new hand wound calibre
9440 MC (362 parts, and about 3 days of power reserve) which is all the
more remarkable because the semi-skeletonised bridges on the back of the
movement are structured in a star shape, echoing this precious
timepiece's lunar and terrestrial character on the case back.
Look how the stars glow in the "evening light" ...
On the wrist - 47mm cast in platinum leave an expression, inevitable … Smaller is barely possible with a movement which alone has a solid 38.8 mm diameter.
Pro:
• Very intelligent and refreshing implementation of a moon phase, using the tourbillon as moon
• Mechanism invites owner's interaction with the watch
• Super movement with a decoration reflecting the watch's theme
• Outstanding dial conception in respect to combining materials and (third) dimension
• Super movement with a decoration reflecting the watch's theme
• Outstanding dial conception in respect to combining materials and (third) dimension
Con:
• Readability of second time zone compromised
• 47 mm ... large and heavy (platinum)Two innovative watches...
I needed time to fully understand the charm of the complication of the Earth & Moon. But now, I am seduced by the ability to have an "animated" moonphase display!
The AstroCalendar displays an impressive arena which attracts our eyes! What a superb lay-out!
Thanks for the pics and words!
Fx
The AstroCalendar displays an impressive arena which attracts our eyes! What a superb lay-out!
Thanks for the pics and words!
Fx
Speechless ...
... well, nearly so. The Earth & Moon is simply gorgeous. Despite its size, but as you wrote, this is inevitable. I love that unique tourbillon moonphase, this is true watchmaking art by Cartier.
the AstroCalendaire ..... nice try. But the lack of legibility in my eyes weighs more than the innovative machanism.
Marcus
the AstroCalendaire ..... nice try. But the lack of legibility in my eyes weighs more than the innovative machanism.
Marcus
Hands on with Rotonde de Cartier Day and Night as well as Tourbillon Chronograph
Under the header 'Creative Elegance' Cartier
pays homage to historic signature features of its history and places
elegance at the heart of its approach to watchmaking. Three iconic
timepieces have been selected for this exercise in style: the Rotonde de Cartier Day and Night, a historic complication with geometric style, the Tank Louis Cartier Sapphire Skeleton and finally the Tank MC Two-tone Skeleton, both of which which celebrate the watchmaking art of skeletonisation.
Let's start with a most poetic yet at the same time practical interpretation of an astronomic watch, the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Day and Night :
Poetic
because it offers a charming realisation of the day/night indication (a
naturalistic sun for the time of work and business (day) contrasted
with a more stylised moon for the times of love, joy and festivities
(night). Practical because Cartier devised an intuitive and easily
readable display which shows day/night at the top and the (retrograde!)
moon phase at the bottom of the dial.
It comes in red gold as well as palladium.
Thus,
the watch has a plot personality in the literal sense of the word: The
most practical information uses the entire dial perimeter (time), the
most emotional information (day/night) prominently the upper half
whereas the most philosophical indication (moon phase) is relegated to
the lower periphery. Why philosophical? Because we think the moon phase
is nothing else than a gentle reminder that we, our earth and the
universe are just a tiny, unimportant part of a magnificent,
unapproachable whole…
As
if this was not enough Cartier did an impressive job in traversing this
already compelling concept into a really outstanding timepiece which
instantly reminds us why Cartier watches are so special:
The dial of the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Day and Night not only has finely arranged dimensions, it also acts as a didactic reference to illustrate how tiny 3-dimensional elements are used most effectively:
The dial of the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Day and Night not only has finely arranged dimensions, it also acts as a didactic reference to illustrate how tiny 3-dimensional elements are used most effectively:
The
day night disk is executed with subtle relief, and the indications of
the moon phase seem to pop out of the dial's chapter ring. Really an
outstanding dial work!
The engine is a manufacture mechanical with automatic winding, calibre 9912 MC, which offers 48h or autonomy.
The magic of this watch is that is wears much smaller than its 43.5 mm case would suggest.
Pro:
• Charming interpretation of a small complication
• Intelligent arrangement of indications
Con:
• 43.5 mm might be too large for small wrists
In addition we were shown the Rotonde de Cartier Tourbillon Chronograph watch with 8-day power reserve.
It plays the same 'tricks' as the watch above, albeit in a much more conventional way, both in terms of (combination of) complications as well as design.
It features a hand-wound chronograph movement with 8-day power reserve, calibre 9438 MC, developed in cooperation with Renaud & Papi. We embarrassingly forgot to take a picture of the movement, but if you know how tourbillon chronographs from R&P look like you get the idea.
The case has a significant diameter of 45 mm. It does not show immediately but interested parties, be warned!
It plays the same 'tricks' as the watch above, albeit in a much more conventional way, both in terms of (combination of) complications as well as design.
It features a hand-wound chronograph movement with 8-day power reserve, calibre 9438 MC, developed in cooperation with Renaud & Papi. We embarrassingly forgot to take a picture of the movement, but if you know how tourbillon chronographs from R&P look like you get the idea.
The case has a significant diameter of 45 mm. It does not show immediately but interested parties, be warned!
Pro:
• Quite a lot of complications put into a single timepiece
• Usefully long power reserve
• Outstanding dial work
Con:
• Rather conventional combination of complications
• Movement exceptional but with (in its range) common base
• 45 mm is limiting the target group• Movement exceptional but with (in its range) common base
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2014-02-25 00:27:38
The addition of the moonphase display is a wonderful idea...
The Rotonde Day and Night is one of my fav Cartier of the year. I love its original and poetic hours display...
Thanks for the presentations!
Fx
Thanks for the presentations!
Fx
Movement must be from APRP
I think that the 8 days chronograph tourbillon movement is from APRP and not from Claret. You can find a quite similar movement in various RO from AP.
Best,
Goldenlutin
Hands on with Tank Louis Cartier and Tank MC Two-tone Skeleton
With this year's offerings in the Tank collection
Cartier intends to combine two of the Maison's historic recognition
features into one, well actually two, timepieces: The Tank watch itself, part of Cartier's heritage of shaped watches since 1917, and the art of transparency , realised
first with Cartier's famous mystery clocks created in 1912 to the
skeletonised movements of the 1930s and the most recent fine watchmaking
creations.
Taken
back to the very essence of its function, the calibre 9616 MC is made
up of adjoining circles of metal that appear to be suspended and trace
the shape of the movement. A circular bridge gives structure to the
circles. The movement has two mainspring barrels and offers 3 days of
autonomy.
Despite the serious artistry there was still room for playful details: Note the '6' - at 5 o'clock (as part of the keyless works):
No wonder the watch wears more delicate than many, in part attributable to the smaller case dimensions (30 mm x 39.2 mm):
With bold elements, emphasis on square shapes and a much more functional character, the MC attracts other audiences:
How far these bridges attract attention is entirely up to the owner, respectively the quality and the angle of light:
The case is perfectly proportionated with 34.5 mm x 43.8 mm. At least for 'manly' wrists...
The result are two watches which share a common theme yet interpret it so differently: The Tank Louis Cartier Sapphire Skeleton and the Tank MC Two-tone Skeleton .
We start with the former: the Tank Louis Cartier Sapphire Skeleton is
an almost airy watch. This impression is caused by an innovative
movement that possesses a transparent plate partially created from
sapphire crystal. This clear material, commonly used for the crystal in
watch cases, is here diverted from its usual purpose and is the subject
of a pending patent.
Using
crystal movement plate is not exactly new to watchmaking, but we think
that Cartier has implemented this concept with an aesthetic rigour and
stringency rarely seen.
The movements seems to represent a ballet of rings floating in mid-air.
The entire movement appears to us almost like a artwork of famed Swiss artist Jean Tinguely (image: Wikipedia):
The entire movement appears to us almost like a artwork of famed Swiss artist Jean Tinguely (image: Wikipedia):
Despite the serious artistry there was still room for playful details: Note the '6' - at 5 o'clock (as part of the keyless works):
No wonder the watch wears more delicate than many, in part attributable to the smaller case dimensions (30 mm x 39.2 mm):
Pro:
• Superbly delicate timepiece
• Skeletonisation looks like an artist's intepretation of a watch, like a mechanical dance
• Base movement not only nicely executed but technically interesting (two barrels)
• Base movement not only nicely executed but technically interesting (two barrels)
Con:
• Is there any? Well, if one does not like skeletonisation ...
The second piece is the Tank MC Two-tone Skeleton , same collection but totally different:
With bold elements, emphasis on square shapes and a much more functional character, the MC attracts other audiences:
Sounds bit like… no names here!"With its oversize numerals and the imposing presence of its signature bridges, the Tank MC Two-tone Skeleton watch is a timepiece for a man of style and wit, a man who masters the rules of elegance so perfectly that he knows how to break them. This is Cartier style: a refined design and the search for clean-cut aesthetics." [Cartier Press Kit]
While
the basic movement is the same (as is the 3 day PR), the focus has
shifted away from ultimate transparency more towards those elements that
break and structure the void: Bridges featuring a two-tone colour
treatment that accentuates its aesthetic identity: the black areas evoke
the technical nature of this movement with its numerous cut-outs; the
angles of the calibre, meanwhile, are coated with a fine gold layer that
matches the case and highlights the traditional chamfering that is
carried out by hand.
Befitting its technical nature, the bridges also form the oversize Roman numerals:
How far these bridges attract attention is entirely up to the owner, respectively the quality and the angle of light:
The case is perfectly proportionated with 34.5 mm x 43.8 mm. At least for 'manly' wrists...
Pro:
• Fascinating two-tone effect on the movement's bridges
• Skeletonisation emphasises architectural aspect of the watch
Con:
• Same as with Tank Louis CartierAaah, the Louis Cartier...
One of the few watches which captivated me during the SIHH... I stood there, speechless, during several minutes, in front of the window display, admiring the jewel... Yes, a jewel, a strong piece of elegance.
In my top 5 winners of the SIHH, this year. Definitely.
Thanks for the great article, and for the general presentation of the 2014 Collection, too!
Best, Oliver.
Nicolas
The Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton is stunning...
One of the top 4 watches of the Salon. It is elegant, contemporary, charming... I could spend hours watching its movement. A true beauty. The MC looks less refined... it plays a different tune.
Thanks Magnus and Oliver!
Fx
Thanks Magnus and Oliver!
Fx
Top 4 for you, Top 5 for me, we agree on this one! [nt]
No message body This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-02-22 14:57:31
Hands on with Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon and extra-flat
The Ballon Bleu de Cartier : I (Magnus)
always had a soft spot for this collection, not necessarily for myself,
but for my 'better half'. Luckily, this affection is shared 
The timepiece is not exactly new, as its movement (calibre 9452 MC) has been in existence at Cartier since 2008, albeit in a substation 46 mm case. Novelty this year is a new significantly 'reduced' (and teasingly sexy) case with only 39 mm diameter, which makes the flying tourbillon even more stand out.
• Hands might be a but more pronounced
• Finally a unisex complicated watch!
On the opposite end of the complication scale Cartier created the second novelty, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat:
A statement, or shall we call it a conclusion?!
As a "tradition" Cartier commissioned once more a comic strip book to communicate the Ballon Bleu watches. This year its entirely created by four female artists (Kan Takahama, Japan; Nadja, France; Posy Simmonds, UK; Rebecca Dautremer, France), for a good reason:
Here are a few impressions:
• Movement invisible (but its not a Cartier inhouse anyway)
The Maison considers this collection as their most 'out of the world' creation, a bridge between history and innovation:
"A watch from another world, formed of beautiful curves, as beautiful as a promise yet to come...
a meteorite fallen from the sky: the Ballon de Cartier watch.
A distillation of the Maison’s watchmaking style; born from a blend of the past and the future...
Launched to great acclaim, the watch has since continued on its incredible trajectory of success." [Cartier Press Kit]
This
year we were shown two very intriguing novelties, both of which will
mark a reversed trend as much as the brand's aptitude to talk fine
watchmaking through restraint: The Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon and Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat .
As usual, we start with the former, the Flying Tourbillon :
The timepiece is not exactly new, as its movement (calibre 9452 MC) has been in existence at Cartier since 2008, albeit in a substation 46 mm case. Novelty this year is a new significantly 'reduced' (and teasingly sexy) case with only 39 mm diameter, which makes the flying tourbillon even more stand out.
We
were shown the red gold version with grey flinqué dial. A blue enamel
dials exists also (which we regretted to have missed, what a symbol for a
Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch…)
The movement is certainly one of the top creations of Cartier (albeit resembling a bit a Vacheron Constantin movement…) and is certified according to the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève (both movement and watch itself). Assembly and adjustment take place in the Cartier workshops in the heart of Geneva, just a floor above the Cartier Boutique:
Cartier itself writes:
The movement is certainly one of the top creations of Cartier (albeit resembling a bit a Vacheron Constantin movement…) and is certified according to the criteria of the Poinçon de Genève (both movement and watch itself). Assembly and adjustment take place in the Cartier workshops in the heart of Geneva, just a floor above the Cartier Boutique:
Cartier itself writes:
Aficionados will rejoice!"In its new size, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon watch is defined by a unique elegance. Its dimensions will appeal to men looking for a compact watch with a modern tourbillon and which, in addition to its soft lines, is characterised by great comfort. An exercise in harmony and proportion, today the case has a thickness of no more than 11.4 mm." [Cartier Press Kit]
Pro:
• Superb aesthetic integration of case, strap, dial and complication - with an extremely sexy outcome
• Excellent finishing
• Excellent finishing
• Finally a unisex complicated watch!
Con:
• Too small for some (but there is an alternative anyway)• Hands might be a but more pronounced
• Finally a unisex complicated watch!
On the opposite end of the complication scale Cartier created the second novelty, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat:
"To desire the Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat watch is to admire the refinement of an accessory on which time has little effect and which stands out on the wrist for its concentration of rigour and style."
Less
is more, Cartier style: 40 mm diameter with only 6.9mm thickness.
Driven by a manufacture movement with manual winding, calibre 430 MC
(née Piaget), hidden behind a solid cold case back.
All Ballon Bleu de Cartier timepieces are delicately designed, especially round the crown. However, this design feature get most attention with the ultra-flat case of this piece:
All Ballon Bleu de Cartier timepieces are delicately designed, especially round the crown. However, this design feature get most attention with the ultra-flat case of this piece:
It
is feathery light on the wrist which might be irritating at first.
Overall, the flatness effect is not as pronounced as with other
comparable watches, e.g. from Piaget. Perhaps its in the Ballon case
itself that imposes some limitations.
A statement, or shall we call it a conclusion?!
As a "tradition" Cartier commissioned once more a comic strip book to communicate the Ballon Bleu watches. This year its entirely created by four female artists (Kan Takahama, Japan; Nadja, France; Posy Simmonds, UK; Rebecca Dautremer, France), for a good reason:
"(…) The privilege of commencing this nascent book of hours fall to the comic strip.
Our reasoning was very simple: as a women’s watch is the star of this edition, why not ask female illustrators to contribute? An idea with a lot of potential, not least because more and more women are contributing to the comic-strip scene. For this new showcase, we were spoilt for choice. And our four queens of the comic strip are a truly royal match for the sparkle of these irresistible new models." [Introduction Ballon Bleu de Cartier comic book]
In
an almost philosophical fashion the four strips cover intricate aspects
of living with luxury: first contact, eternal beauty, its effect on
human behaviour and finally the passing of it from one generation to
another (seems to be a de rigeur motif in Geneva…).
Pro:
• Superb aesthetic integration of case, strap, dial and complication (just like the Flying Tourbillon, but at other end of complication range)
• Outstanding combination of colours (red gold/anthracite)
• Very subtle 3D usage on the dial
• Outstanding combination of colours (red gold/anthracite)
• Very subtle 3D usage on the dial
• Charming presentation!
Con:
• Ballon bleu case does not express flatness very well• Movement invisible (but its not a Cartier inhouse anyway)
nice evolutions...
The Tourbillon watch looks balanced and despite its reduced size, I had pleasure to put it on the wrist. About the extra thin Ballon Bleu, it is a perfect context to use the Piaget movement.
Thanks Magnus and Oliver!
Fx
Thanks Magnus and Oliver!
Fx
Cartier Balon Bleu wristwatches - I am a huge fan!
Even the iced out model looks stunning...that chocolate model is ...almost irresistable!
Cartier @ SIHH 2014 - conclusion
Cartier plays on all levels: "tool" watches, small and big complications, niches - not to mention jewellery, luxury goods and so on.
For customers and connoisseurs of the brand it is just perfect to have such a big choice. For their own sales people it might be quite challenging ...
Still, unified and identifyable Cartier style - shown in all the watches. This is something really outstanding and quite rare - compared to other luxury houses.
Surprise - a "tool" watch with a haute de gamme watch making house works! Maybe it was the biggest surprise this time, because we have seen outstanding Haute Horlogerie from Cartier before. Applaudissement!
Cheers and thanks for reading,
Magnus & Oliver
For customers and connoisseurs of the brand it is just perfect to have such a big choice. For their own sales people it might be quite challenging ...
Still, unified and identifyable Cartier style - shown in all the watches. This is something really outstanding and quite rare - compared to other luxury houses.
Surprise - a "tool" watch with a haute de gamme watch making house works! Maybe it was the biggest surprise this time, because we have seen outstanding Haute Horlogerie from Cartier before. Applaudissement!
Magnus & Oliver
Cartier...
...as a watchmaker is really a new concept for me, even if they've been producing watches for ages.
I'm not a Cartier fan as a watchmaker. Nevertheless, I see it as a great jeweler.
But the least I can say is that from these last years they trully showed some strong mastery in horological content.
I see here many normal movement but they have launched each year some very heavy technical pieces too.
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire shows a calendar mechanism I really appreciate.
The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon brings a very interesting interpretation of bridges shape and decoration.
The image I have from the brand is evolving then.
Yet, what I really like in what I saw here is this fabulous case+lugs+crown style:
Thanks Magnus and Oliver for the report.
Cheers, Mark
This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2014-02-22 11:06:18
I'm not a Cartier fan as a watchmaker. Nevertheless, I see it as a great jeweler.
But the least I can say is that from these last years they trully showed some strong mastery in horological content.
I see here many normal movement but they have launched each year some very heavy technical pieces too.
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire shows a calendar mechanism I really appreciate.
The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon brings a very interesting interpretation of bridges shape and decoration.
The image I have from the brand is evolving then.
Yet, what I really like in what I saw here is this fabulous case+lugs+crown style:
Thanks Magnus and Oliver for the report.
Cheers, Mark
This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2014-02-22 11:06:18
Since 1874...Cartier has quite a long history as a watchmaker...
at its origin intended as a discipline to expand/complete the jewellery lines of the luxury house. 'Serious' watchmaking (as we Purists might define) is of course a child of the 21st century…
You may want to take a look at Cartier's journey through their watchmaking history:
It is puzzling how a house that is often not taken serious as a watchmaker has created so many icons!
Cheers,
Magnus
Cartier was the most active and creative brand of the Salon
A sportive and all-around watch, innovative complications, charming skeletons... I think that Cartier offered us the fireworks of the Salon!
Thanks a lot for this comprehensive report.
Fx
Thanks a lot for this comprehensive report.
Fx
Magnus and Oliver, Thanks!! Outstanding coverage of Cartier!
Definitely a brand that has become much more exciting in the past few years in terms of the watch lines. I really need to look them over more closely next time I am at my dealer.
Excellent Review in-depth Cartier watches SIHH 2014
Dear OliMag,
Thank you for this in-depth review of Cartier watches from SIHH 2014 to follow the previous Quick Look reports by PuristSPro.
Having missed the SIHH 2014 due to moving house across 2 continents, I was glad for the efforts of FrX and you both to capture the essence of Collection Cartier.
Cartier was one of the top 3 exhibitors at SIHH 2014 that surprised and even wowed the jaded watch lover with technical, aesthetic and functional "novelties".
You already know my dilemma (literal) to choose between a Cartier Diver watch and another from SIHH 2014........
Regards,
MTF