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Chopard L.U.C 1963 Chronograph PuristS Edition: Pictures and Hands On Review

 
 By: amanico : April 21st, 2015-00:13

I had to wait till last Monday to see this Chopard L.U.C 1963 Chrono PuristS Edition in the real life.

Melvyn already told you the story behind this Chronograph so I will make it short.

PuristS and Chopard are long time friends, and once upon a tile, the idea was born to make a chronograph together, a collaboration between the brand and PuristSPro.

The first discussions started in 2007, but things got a faster rythm during our IGOTT 2 in Las Vegas, in June 2011.

As you can guess, discussions were passionate all along the elaboration of this project... 2 or 3 Subdials? What size? Manual movement, or automatic? Which metal? Solid or see through case back? What kind of crown? Pushers?

Well, all the détails of a nice / fine Chronograph.

But the will or desire to lead this project to the end was so strong that both parties found an agreement on some détails.

The key points were:

- A steel case,

- A Manual movement,

- A Chronograph " only ", without any extra complication,

- A well finished movement.

All this for a decent price... Hence the absence of any extra complication, or the preference for a steel case, despite the low production, as this chronograph is a limited edition of 50 pièces only.

That being reminded, let's see, once again, this special Chronograph, in the détails.

1/ The case:

The proportions are very interesting with a diameter of 42 mm and a height of 11, 50 mm, the case is well balanced and pleasant to the eye.

A tad smaller would have been in my opinion, greater, but conceiving a Watch is a matter of compromise, and it seemed that 42 mm was more popular.

The finish of the case, brushed on its side, with a polished bezel, is a classic in fine watchmaking. Good point.

I am less fan of the massive and short lugs, I would have preferred something slimmer, more sensual, but once again, this is my personal taste.

On the other hand, I love the massive and full of character round pushers, and the big crown ( which is 8 mm big ).

2/ The dial:

Black is wonderful. It blends elegance and strenght. Enamel would have been even greater, but the price would have been higher, too.

Here, the black dial is laquered, to give the look of porcelain, without the inherent inconvenient of fragility from this material.

What I appreciate a lot is the way the time and the chronograph are treated, with distinctive colors ( red for the chronograph hands / silver for the time ). It is a detail which is rarely seen on modern chronographs. Excellent point.

The other detail which I find great is the shape of the hours and minutes hands, " fusée. Original and very nice looking.

The two chrono subdials are bigger than the small seconds at 6, reminding that Chopard thought about making a Chronograph, not adding a chronograph in a Watch which is too often the case.

Now, personally, I would have removed the roman numbers, and replace them by arabic numbers, or just a 6 and a 12, for an even cleaner dial.

3/ The movement:

The Cal 03. 07 L is an evolution of the Cal 03. 03 L, which was an automatic movement.

In the case of the 03. 07 L, the rotor and the automatic parts were removed, to get a manual winding movement, to enhance the pleasure of seeing the whole movement.


A finely finished movement... For it, Chopard opted for german silver ( Maillechort in French ), and decorated it in the pure tradition of fine watchmaking: Perlage, anglage and Cotes De Genève.

Another great detail is that you have a flyback ( reset to zero and start ) and a hacking second, to remind that this Watch is not only a ChronoGRAPH but also a ChronoMETER, submitted to the COSC.

Of course, you have a column Wheel and a vertical clutch.

The movement is a bit small, with a diameter of 28, 80 mm, which makes me think that a 40 mm case would have been better for the dial. But Chopard adapted this rather small movement in a clever way, as you can see through the case back, with a " ring " which is shaped as an arenan which fills in an elegant way the space between the case and the movement.

A smaller case would have allowed to remove the roman numbers, and to choose a 6 / 12 configuration without any sensation of emptyness, too, as the Chrono subdials would have been slightly decentered.

The Cal 03. 07 beats at the pace of 28 800 vibrations per hour, and offers an excellent power reserve of 60 hours.

Place to the real pictures, now:

 

 

 

 

What I like a lot is the idea behind the Watch, born from the friendship between the PuristS and Chopard, the manual winding movement, the fact this is a flyback and hacking seconds, and a Chronometer, the design of the hands, the black dial.

I would have much preferred arabic numbers, and just a 6 / 12 configuration, with a smaller case to better adapt the movement to the case and dial, deeper and more sensual anglages, and an all new movement, rather than removing the automatic parts of the Cal 03. 03L. Of course, the price to pay would not be the same, though...

Still, a very interesting chronograph, which is not that common in the modern production.

Best,

Nicolas
This message has been edited by MTF on 2015-04-21 08:21:59

Thanks for the write up and photos Nicolas!

 
 By: watchthatman : April 21st, 2015-07:14
I think it's a beautiful chrono, and I'm not too crazy about current production chromosome.  I don't have a problem with the Roman numerals, nor with the lugs.

I do love the different colors for time and chrono on here.  It reminds me of a stopwatch I had as a kid.

I hope I get to see one I the real someday.


As often, it is mandatory to judge a watch in the flesh.

 
 By: amanico : April 21st, 2015-10:33

Before expressing any judgement on it. I was happy to do so and wish you have the same opportunity.

Best, my friend, and thanks for your input.

Nicolas

More background on design choices

 
 By: MTF : April 21st, 2015-08:03

Nico,

Thanks for your review.

You wrote:

"What I like a lot is the idea behind the Watch, born from the friendship between the PuristS and Chopard, the manual winding movement, the fact this is a flyback and hacking seconds, and a Chronometer, the design of the hands, the black dial.

I would have much preferred arabic numbers, and just a 6 / 12 configuration, with a smaller case to better adapt the movement to the case and dial, deeper and more sensual anglages, and an all new movement, rather than removing the automatic parts of the Cal 03. 03L. Of course, the price to pay would not be the same, though..."


You are correct that personal choice had an influence but both Chopard and PuristS were also constrained by other considerations.

Cost was a factor but more importantly, was "value" because with a big budget, anyone can design anything.

Horological Value is a different metric. At the time of design, global price of gold was very high as a result of economic uncertainty and warfare. If we had made the dial from solid gold disc as originally planned, it would have been another $2000 even without grand feu enamel.....

The choice of steel case was not only for cost reasons but also following the idea that historic steel case chronographs are more desirable than gold ones. This is particularly because of the current rule at L.U.C to propose all their L.U.C movements only in precious metal cases.

Another rule broken is that the launch of any new L.U.C movement was always in a gold case. With the L.U.C 1963 PuristS chronograph, a exception from the rule was made.

The fifty L.U.C 03.07-L movements in the PuristS' edition have an additional suffix 'P' because they are different from the ones used in gold cases. It is 'sans quantième' and had to be specially homologated with Geneva Seal with different crown setting mechanism and dial side finishing.



L.U.C 03.07-L DATE

L.U.C 03.07-L DATE


L.U.C 03.07-L NO DATE

L.U.C 03.07-L NO DATE


The choice of Roman numerals is linked with the original watch dials when the family bought Chopard in 1963. As this is a tribute to that year, the L.U.C 1963 watch family must have roman numerals for time display and Arabic numbers for chronograph function. That, led to the choice of 42mm case size for dial space and proportion, as you surmised.


The case shape and lugs are set by the L.U.C 1963 watch family motif having curved case bands with vertical brushed finish and short lugs to cater for smaller wrists.


Regards,

MTF

Agreed that historical chronos are more desirable than gold ones.

 
 By: amanico : April 21st, 2015-10:36

And I am happy to see that this chrono has some good elements.

Now the thing which most disturbs me is the origin of this chrono, I mean the automatic origins.

Costs are one thing, yes. But I already had this issue with the JLC TT Geophysic.  wink

Best,

Nicolas

That the movement is an evolution from a time-tested predicessor is, for me

 
 By: CaliforniaJed : April 21st, 2015-16:46
a big, big PLUS, my friend!

Thanks very much for sharing these thoughts, Nicolas.

Best,

CaliforniaJed






T

Evolution is a beautiful thing, no?! ;-)


JLC did the same thing with the Alarm movement for their manual winding Memo.

 
 By: amanico : April 21st, 2015-22:39

They removed the rotor and the auto parts of the Cal 918 et voilà, the Cal 914 was born!

Best, Jed.

Nicolas

Perhaps that description is a bit unfair in the case of this movement,

 
 By: CaliforniaJed : April 22nd, 2015-06:42
no, my friend? Your point is taken, though, and appreciated.

Best,

CaliforniaJed

Thanks Nicolas for the review on the Chopard PuristS Edition

 
 By: ED209 : April 21st, 2015-08:13

Nice pics.  I still remember session at IGOTT2 in Vegas when we were all discussing the various elements and fine details about this chronograph.  Thanks for this review.

Regards,

ED-209

YES! That was a great moment! Thanks for reminding us that one, Ed. [nt]

 
 By: amanico : April 21st, 2015-10:37
No message body

I echo some of your sentiments

 
 By: cazalea : April 21st, 2015-12:01
"I would have much preferred arabic numbers, and just a 6 / 12 configuration, with a smaller case to better adapt the movement to the case and dial "

and for me, a greater contrast between the hands and the dial would have improved my ability (old eyes) to see the time in less than favorable light, such as a GTG of Purists.




when we forget to bring a flashlight for watch inspecting




Cazalea

Thanks for your feedback, Mike. I love Ed ( or is he Ming? ) look on the last picture. ;) [nt]

 
 By: amanico : April 21st, 2015-12:36
No message body

LOL I'm sure it was the 'evil' twin!

 
 By: ED209 : April 21st, 2015-20:59
smile
I believe that pic was from a Perpetual GTG at the Rainbow several years ago?

Regards,
ED-209

I can't tell you, I am totally unable to say who is who, between you two. ;) [nt]

 
 By: amanico : April 21st, 2015-22:40
No message body

Easy to see the difference: one of them is the Sexy One. (nt)

 
 By: MTF : April 22nd, 2015-01:50
wink

ROFL! But which one? :) [nt]

 
 By: amanico : April 22nd, 2015-05:45
No message body

hahaha LOL!

 
 By: ED209 : April 22nd, 2015-07:46

smile

Regards,

ED-209

Thanks a lot for your review.

 
 By: foversta : April 21st, 2015-15:05
When I read the conclusion.

"I would have much preferred arabic numbers, and just a 6 / 12 configuration, with a smaller case to better adapt the movement to the case and dial, deeper and more sensual anglages, and an all new movement, rather than removing the automatic parts of the Cal 03. 03L. Of course, the price to pay would not be the same, though..."

I don't agree with the full statement. Of course, it is a matter of taste but let me explain my point of view.

Let's see if Chopard puts arabic numerals (in that case, they should keep the case size if not... there is no room to put them) and just a 6/12 configuration... My question is: do you want to see a Mille Miglia with a LUC style? Or a clone of the Chrono One? In that case, what would be the objective?

It took me time to appreciate this watch. Actually, I was not a big fan of it at the beginning.

But if you remove the roman numerals and reduce the case size, you kill what makes the key point of interest of this watch: it belongs to the 1963 family. I understood this the day I saw it with the 1963 Tourbillon. For me, it is very important to find again these common points and I started to like it when I saw it with the other family members.

Now let's speak about the movement.

It is the at the end the story to take advantage of the issues to convert them in assets. Yes, the movement is a bit too small for the case but nothing serious (I saw worse...). Yes, you can feel that it comes from an automatic starting point. But at the end, thanks to its lay-out and the inclined frange, I found the result much better than some movements with similar contexts. I don't know what you mean with "sensual" anglages. But what I see is bridges with unusual shapes which look lile jigsaw pieces and which contribute to the successful visual effect. You have at least 2 inward angles (if my memory is right) and the contrast between the colours is very appealing too.

At the end, I consider this chronograph as a watch which is not flawless but which at the end embodies a very subtle charm.

Thanks for your review.

Fx

With a 6 / 12 config, I rather see an hommage to the Classics rather than a 1000 Miglia.

 
 By: amanico : April 21st, 2015-22:50

By Classics, I mean Classic Chronos such as...Pateks, Vacherons... With all arabic numbers, why not, with a smaller case, it would widen the hommage to Longines, Minerva, well, not bad references.

It is not easy to make a chrono for PuristS, indeed.

But at least it is cool.

The thing which disturbs me the most, at the contrary of you, is the movement. Removing all the auto parts, I mean.

On that, we agree to disagree.  wink

Best,

Nicolas


This message has been edited by amanico on 2015-04-21 22:54:35

Sporty and elegant. Thank you for this interesting opinion review Nicolas. [nt]

 
 By: Mark in Paris : April 24th, 2015-07:51
No message body

I love so many details on this watch

 
 By: MichaelC : April 30th, 2015-08:30
The case, the handwind movement without date, the pushers, the hands, the subdials layout, the smaller small seconds - everything I enjoy.

But I just don't agree with the dial.  Vintage style with Roman numerals and red on black.  Too sporty of a color combination.  I have to agree with your suggestion to use arabic numerals.  I think it would be more agreeable w/ the black and red.  But I also understand Melvyn's explanation about the 1963 pieces needing Roman numerals.

Still, a tremendous collaboration between PuristSPro and Chopard.  I wish I were in "the club" with this one.