Chopard

I had a couple of minutes the other day and dropped into the Chopard Boutique to try out the new 2016 Edition of the MM series. Unfortunately someone was much faster than me and the specimen they had got sold before I had the chance to see it. Still, another one is on the way...

I have to say I am a bit torn, when it comes to the watch. It is very comfortable on the wrist, appropriately sized, the dial is exquisite (especially the guilloche part) and the movement beautiful. But the date truly ruins it for me. In that sense I hope there will be a non-date version out at some point, otherwise the regular XPS will remain the preferable version for me. 

is also a deal breaker for me! And in this case, it really is desnecessary.

Even though I understand the 20th anniversary connection...

by the way, did you get my recent PM?

At the moment very busy - will get back to you later tonight

Here I can see it has a useful styling function, as the grounding point of the inner dial. In that respect, it does bring together the various elements. Of course it also adds the utility of indicating the sequential day of the month (which many of us don't need).

Overall the watch seems very faithful to the original.

Cazalea

And that's the reason I can understand it. But still not something I fully like...

Do you have a picture of the caliber with the micro rotor?

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Nothing is urgent ;-)

Latest when the MM2016 again arrives!

Akiro1,

The movement is the old L.U.C 1.96 renamed 96.01-L as seen through the case back and naked:

Regards,

MTF

In fact, for me, the "main" problem with this Chopard is the increase of the case size but the use of an "old" caliber (from 1996 so 20 years old if I am right) which keeps the same size even if I really love it with its wonderful micro rotor.

I think it is a trend today for many brands to try to make something new out of something old. Of course, I know that developing a new caliber costs a lot but considering the price of that kind of watches, it is a little bit petty, isn't it?

Best wishes

Alkiro

Akiro1,

All L.U.C x.96 movements where x=1 or 3 or 4 (i.e. 1.96, 3.96 or 4.96) and the renamed 96.xx series of movements (automatic winding from micro-rotor) are 27.4 mm diameter.

They have been that size for 20 years, WHATEVER the size of the watch case used.  So, there has been a consistency that you would not expect to change for the L.U.C 1860 XPS watches.

Irrespective of the need to pay tribute to the original 1.96 or 96.01-L movement by actually using it in the commemorative watches, there are other reasons to use the same base movement.

There is a consistency in working with common base specifications viz. Rolex, Omega Patek Philippe have used the same specifications for decades for some models, whatever the case size fashion-of-the-day.

After-sales service training and spare parts are consistent.

To give you an idea of the sizes involved, here are the diameters of cases in different L.U.C Gents watches that use the micro-rotor 96.xx movement series at 27.4mm:-

L.U.C x.96 classic chronometers and QF models: 37.0mm

L.U.C XPS, XP, XP Skeletec and XP Urushi models: 39.5mm.

L.U.C 1860 XPS: 40.0mm.

Thus, the latest L.U.C 1860 XPS case is only 0.5mm bigger than previous Gents L.U.C XP and XPS watches.

It is not such a big change to require a new, bigger movement.

Regards,

MTF

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The size increase from the regular XPS. And their lug design ensures that it wears very nicely, even at 40mm

IMO, Chopard did a very good job with their new L.U.C 1860 XPS by striking a balance in movement sustainability, aesthetics rejuvenation, and tradition upkeep.

...while the stock pics say 250 unless the rose gold are 100/250.

What my post was missing

.I spotted that and informed Chopard PR department.

The correct specifications are:

Ref. 161946-5001 – In 18 ct rose gold
250-piece limited edition

Oops!  The reason may be that the launch edition of L.U.C limited editions are usually 100-pieces when they issue a new movement.

Except that the L.U.C 1860 XPS is a new case but with the original movement design inside.
 

Regards,

MTF

This message has been edited by MTF on 2016-06-09 13:02:22

And the guilloché is very nice. I cannot wait to see this one. Thanks for the wrist shot!

Best,

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