Comments:
So 2012 is more about design and details, than new “rocket science” in the watchmaking. Some of them are a real pleasure for the (our) eyes, but let´s start with the highlights of their novelties and then you can judge by your own.
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2012-05-27 13:44:44
Diving, Fifty Fathoms and Blancpain, there is a very strong relationship and it belongs together since 1953. A good reason for high expectations and a closer look to some details.
Not close enough? OK, then let´s start here …
… with a picture of the amorphous metal membranes at the backside of the watch …
... and some more next to the crown …
The matt finish of the case looks very good and fits perfect to the style. The crown and the bezel look very close to the ones from the Fifty Fathoms (Ref. 5015, from 2007), but only close. There is lots of Fifty Fathoms DNA shown and even more.
A fancy rubber strap solution was part of the Fifty Fathoms Anniversary package, back in 2003. The latest one for the FF 5015 was nothing special and not convincing for everybody. But this one looks very cool, feels very comfortable and is a strong part of the whole concept.
Look at the buckle. What comes to your mind?
The watch comes in a well-known box and this time in red/orange.
Baselword 2012 - Official PuristSPro Report: Blancpain
We can’t deny that this manufacture always was dear to us. Both of us follow the developments in Le Brassus closely and with much of our hearts & souls involved.
In the early days of Blancpain (“second life”) there was a simple but unique case, only. They introduced a lot of movements and complications (in a relatively short time) in the same kind of case and even complicated watches also in steel cases.
Today Blancpain offers a much wider range of designs, styles, finishing’s … More than ever before.
However, in the recent years we felt that the manufacture lost focus and endeavoured into realms that did not – in our humble opinion – match the rather clearly defined essence of the brand.
Thus, and at not surprise either, we could not help to voice our disappointment last year (click here ) when we concluded that the erstwhile collector’s brand transmorphed into a ‘normal’ haute horlogerie manufacturer.
Keeping in mind that one observation is only that – a spotlight in time – we were eager to learn whether our past impressions were to be substantiated or refuted at BaselWorld 2012.
2012 was overshadowed with the presentation of the overtly large X Fathoms, a true talking piece. Few have seen it in the wild, and its sheer dimensions as well as its features set it apart from most other watches (is it still considered one?).
However, Blancpain is known for not only focussing on a single collection, instead all of them receive (more or less) due attention. As a consequence there is always lots to report from the Blancpain booth:
So 2012 is more about design and details, than new “rocket science” in the watchmaking. Some of them are a real pleasure for the (our) eyes, but let´s start with the highlights of their novelties and then you can judge by your own.
The X Fathoms Collection
The X Fathoms was already introduced in autumn 2011, in Dubai (click here ) and we already had some discussions here about it. Nonetheless we would like to talk about it once more, because most of the time it is nearly impossible to get the full picture without seeing a watch in the metal. Both of us saw it in Basel, for the first time.
The key feature of that watch is the depth meter, a relatively rare complication. The X Fathoms is rated for 300m WR and its depth meter for 90m that not simply measures the minimum point of your descent. The gauge is also capable of storing the point in its mechanical memory. There are much more details shown on the dial (e.g. separate indication on the 0-15m scale with an exceptional +/- 30 cm precision; retrograde 5-minute counter for decompression stops …) in that big 56mm/24mm case, but at the end Blancpain declares it is only a companion for a professional diving computer. Big size, we will come back to that point later ?
Diving, Fifty Fathoms and Blancpain, there is a very strong relationship and it belongs together since 1953. A good reason for high expectations and a closer look to some details.
Not close enough? OK, then let´s start here …
… with a picture of the amorphous metal membranes at the backside of the watch …
... and some more next to the crown …
The matt finish of the case looks very good and fits perfect to the style. The crown and the bezel look very close to the ones from the Fifty Fathoms (Ref. 5015, from 2007), but only close. There is lots of Fifty Fathoms DNA shown and even more.
A fancy rubber strap solution was part of the Fifty Fathoms Anniversary package, back in 2003. The latest one for the FF 5015 was nothing special and not convincing for everybody. But this one looks very cool, feels very comfortable and is a strong part of the whole concept.
Look at the buckle. What comes to your mind?
A battleaxe, a ray … - in any case it seems to work well, looks special and is far from being boring.
The watch comes in a well-known box and this time in red/orange.
There is no sapphire back, which makes sense for such a watch, to see the calibre 9918B. The latter has impressive dimensions/features: 13mm thickness, 36mm diameter, 120h power reserve and 385 components are needed.
The case is satin-brushed titanium and not that heavy on the wrist, because of the materials. The thickness is 24mm, the diameter is (impressive) 55.65mm.
The latter brings up another very important question: How does it fit/feel on the wrist?
The fit is “special” and for sure not for every day, but the feel is outstanding – even on smaller/normal wrists. Believe it or not it is not (totally) out of the world and both of us have been surprised positively. For someone on the hunt for something special, with a sporty lifestyle and “bigger” wrists it is a super cool watch which shows some great and very well-made details. Good news, it will be a regular production piece (because of the strong demand and great resonance in Basel) and only limited by production capacities.
Maybe there is some inspiration shown to spice up the regular Fifty Fathoms collection. A fancy rubber strap comes to our mind …
Since a few years there is cooperation with National Geographic, but for the first time it was shown in Basel at the booth.
For sure, this version has caused some strong reactions.
Love / Hate / perplexity / surprise.
It is a strong watch, certainly not a consensual one.
It is a technical watch, which was not the case with the first models, I mean the original, which housed rugged movements, reliable tractors, and where finishing was not the main obsession, let's say...
So, yes, the " X " is totally different, but it has a point in common: Innovation.
Let's be clear, this is not the first " depthmeter watch ", as we had the Favere Leuba Batiscaphe in the Sixties, and more recently the IWC Deep One ( 1999 ) and the JLC Pro Geo 4 years before, but it is certainly one of the most elaborated one.
Do I like it? Yes.
Will I get one? No. Mainly because of the asked price, which is too high for a watch I won't wear a lot.
Best,
Nicolas
The 50 Fathoms Collection
The design of the Fifty Fathoms collection is well-known as it is available since 2007. We have seen several versions in different metals, in several colours, with additional logo´s and with different complications.
(The variants which are available are not all shown in the picture above.)
Not all of them have been winners (from our point of view), but the key collection is very appealing and has its own fan group – for some good reasons.
So what was new in 2012? To make it short: details.
The key feature was a satin-brushed case in steel or red gold.
In both metals it looks very nice, more refined and somehow mature. The latter came to mind when it comes together with (finally) new shown Barennia straps.
Barennia leather is not new for Blancpain, but those shown in Basel looked and felt perfect like the old ones they had on offer some time ago. For all those who don´t know the leather, it feels like “Cashmere” on the wrist, but is robust at the same time – especially when it comes with rubber on the inside of the strap. Really looking forward to see them in the Blancpain collection (again) and finally available for the Fifty Fathoms collection.
Great fit on the wrist and the satin-brushed red gold case should be very nice on hot summer days and on vacation ?
Next (simple) version with satin-brushed steel case shows a new dial …
… and yes it is steel, even when it comes with a blue dial. That dial catches lots of light and is an eye-catcher, but maybe not for everybody taste in a sports watch.
Chronographs – satin-brushed cases (steel and red gold) for that complication as well.
Pushers still can be used under water and the movement wasn´t changed.
They should give us one version without date, at Blancpain.
But wait a minute... Next year will be 2013.... 60th Birthday of this great watch...
Hmmmmm....
Blancpain may wwell have something in the tube, for the Hard Core Fans we are...
Best,
Nicolas.
No ...
they are not discontinued, it is just a wider collection with additional models.
The L-Evolution Collection
This recent addition to the brand’s portfolio is the prime reason why many think Blancpain has deviated from its identity while others applaud the fresh wind blowing. The former sentiment has been ‘helped’ by a slightly awkward introduction (remember, the Lamborghini watch was at one time placed within the L-Evolution collection and another time presented as a separate line).
L-Evolution Chronographe Flyback À Rattrapante:
It is the Lamborghini watch that takes the centre stage with a new Split Seconds watch.
Based on last year’s novelty with the carbon fibre bezel it takes the Lamborghini design cues…
… and adds the absolutely appropriate (i.e. in a racing context) complication of a split seconds chronograph…
… and a big date:
Design-wise it’s the best incarnation of the Lamborghini watch so far, and this is ironically due to the well-implemented addition of the instantaneously changing big date. Why ‘ironically’? Well if you look close its designed like a digital watch (and it changes within a fraction of a second so its ‘digitalness’ is even amplified).
On the back you can admire a rotor that resembles the wheel of a Lamborghini car:
Below you can see – well, not that much:
The Cal. 69F9 base-movement is the tried and trusted Piguet (oh, sorry, Blancpain!) movement that has received a well-dosed make-up treatment with blacking and roughened surfaces:
“Numerous stages were involved in achieving this result. The parts have been coated with a beadblasted two-tone material (5N red gold-plated or rhodiumed depending on the finish); while the straight graining on the NAC bridges features the anthracite appearance characteristic of this treatment.” [Press Kit]
Finally, also the buckle deserves some attention, its nicely designed with a carbon inlay:
Blancpain also offers a red gold version that presents a nice contrast even down to the movement. Unfortunately we could not see that one:
If you put the watch on the wrist its clear why we liked it: Its well balanced and almost a quiet ocean amongst its L-Evolution siblings:
L-Evolution Carrousel Saphir Volant Une Minute:
Blancpain really broke new ground with the Carrousel watch that got its finest implementation last year with the mystical Saphir version. The watch had its little secret with the extremely tiny ‘JB’ printing on the sapphire disks that served as movement plates. This year, Blancpain continued the secrecy with an excursion into the fauna:
Like the other version also here the unique carrousel is set apart from the remainder of the movement and masterfully accentuated by the transparent sapphire:
However, life is not all that positive here as the poor carrousel is trapped in a spider’s net, better visible from the back (note the blued inlays that kind of resemble the technique used by Hermès):
But where’s the spider? We need to get our loupe out!
Still not close enough? Well, there you go:
It’s a fun piece indeed and beautifully crafted. However, we can’t help to give it only a second place behind the full-sapphire Carrousel of last year. Also, we think the spider is somehow like an afterthought and does not really fit to the watch as a whole. Does this help to raise the awareness for the carrousel complication?
The Villeret Collection
The Villeret Collection is something like the cradle for ‘BlancpainNEO’ and such the DNA of the brand distilled to the max. Blancpain without the collection would be unthinkable. No surprises therefore to see a lot of novelties here!
Villeret Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel:
This is believed to be a world’s first, the only Traditional Chinese Calendar ever realised in a wristwatch:
“On its fascinating dial, the hours, minutes and the Gregorian calendar rub shoulders with the main indications of the Chinese calendar: traditional double-hour indication, day, month with indication of leap months, signs of the zodiac, as well as the five elements and the 10 celestial stems. The combination of the latter with the 12 animals of the zodiac that represent the terrestrial branches follows the sixty-year cycle that is central to Chinese culture. The moon phases, a key element in Blancpain complete calendars, are also presented and play a particularly important role in this model, given the link between the lunar cycle and traditional Chinese months.
Contrary to the Gregorian solar calendar which uses the solar day as the base unit, the traditional Chinese calendar is a lunisolar calendar, meaning a solar calendar with the lunar cycle (29.53059 days) as its base unit. Since a year comprising 12 lunar months (354.36707 days) is approximately 11 days too short compared with the tropical or solar year (365.242374 days), a leap month is sometimes added to preserve the match with the cycle of the seasons. Given that each month of the Chinese calendar, including the leap months, begins on the day of the new moon, its length is either 29 or 30 days. This means that when a year comprises a leap month, this 13-month year will be longer than the tropical year. On the contrary, when there is no leap month, the year of 12 lunar months is shorter than the tropical year. This distinctive feature is the reason behind the variable date of the Chinese New Year.” [Press Kit]
The grand feu enamel dial features with a chapter ring composed of gold appliques ,and indications transferred before the firing process; the main hands shaped like slightly hollowed leaves; and the blued steel Gregorian date pointer appearing in the traditional serpentine form.
The watch is limited to 20 pieces in white gold and unlimited in red gold.
The movement is characterised by complexity and power:
“The new self-winding Calibre 3638 powering this watch is endowed with a 7-day power reserve, despite the presence of 434 parts including 39 jewels. Its complexity stems as much from the number of indications to be displayed as from the irregular nature of their cycles.” [Press Kit]
Note also the 5 correctors under the lug, a very practical and unique Blancpain development (the rotor is not the final version and will be replaced by a white gold one engraved with a dragon (what else?)):
Despite all this complexity, this 45mm masterpiece wears unobtrusive and very pleasant:
Villeret Répétition Minutes:
Blancpain is one of the pioneers of modern-day repetition watches and was one of the first to present a post-watch-crisis repeating movement. This year we saw a new entry to this elite circle:
We have a video that demonstrates its sound qualities (note that this is a prototype still!):
Its movement is exceptional for sure, but it was also the dial that merits attention. Note the regular centrifugal pattern:
Worn on the wrist it’s a restrained and elegant stunner, a true understatement watch:
Here, the dial might fool you in thinking its made of papyrus:
This transposition effect is something this watch has in common with another 2012 novelty:
Villeret Squelette 8 Jours:
From time to time Blancpain presented skeletonised watches that allowed deep insights into their respective driving powers. This year’s offering is no exception an a beautiful representative of this genre:
As you certainly have noticed, this 38mm watch is built around the 8-day handwound movement Cal. 13. The neat effect here is that all three mainspring barrels are open-worked and visible, allowing the wearer to observe the distribution (and equalisation) of power between the three reservoirs.
The decoration itself is composed of skeleton-working, chamfering (also known as bevelling) and engraving. For our liking it’s a bit too much but nevertheless nicely done. We particularly like for deep the movement has been freed from metal:
As much as this watch is stunning to behold, its true magic is exposed once you wear it on your wrist:
It appears like a miniature universe with numerous mountains, valleys and rivers:
Villeret Flinqué:
Announced as a ‘Pre-Basel’ model this is actually a watch we missed. Thus, only press pictures:
The dial is covered with several layers of translucent blue lacquer applied to the dial create an incomparable depth effect:
Villeret Handwound Ultra-Flat:
The final five (!) watches all contain movements derived from the venerable Piguet Cal. 15. The movement has been sleeping in Blancpain’s stable for two decades until it finally was taken from rest 5 years ago:
Originally developed in 1976 by Jacques Piguet himself, it was released two years later. It is remarkable with its generous diameter (33.8mm) but a thickness of only 1.9mm. Combined with its splendid space between the bridges there is significant space for decoration; and Blancpain at times made good use of it (e.g. the 2007 Only Watch below; & more later!).
We shall start with two ‘Dragon’ watches sporting the unmodified Cal. 155 that well fills the case:
Of course, like so many others, paying reference to the new Chinese year of the dragon. The first features a 3D dragon…
… while the second sports a rural Chinese motif:
The sculpturing/engraving work is quite elaborate and articulates the scenery well:
Staying with the same movement but turning it upside down – literally and metaphorically!
The former aspect is because the movement in the following (and last) watches is turned by 180° to expose in lieu of the dial. The latter is because Blancpain transformed an ultra-flat movement into a considerably thick one – for a good reason, as we shall see!
Below you find on the left the Cal. 155 as in the watch above and on the right the one discussed now. Note how the bridges increased in thickness, they are almost like dams trying to tame an ocean!
The watches in question do not feature the usual Geneva striping but instead make different usage of the real estate on the top and the sides of the bridges. The top parts are coloured or set in stone, whereas the sidewalls are perfectly polished and/or set with stones as well.
What is easily noticed is how splendidly the magic of light flowing along the bridges’ flanks is worked out (pay attention to the balance cock!):
While we are at it, we start with the black coloured watch:
Slightly less dramatic is the white coloured version:
The final version is set in stones…
… except for the central bridge carrying the hands:
One to hear, one to look at.
The Minute repeater... I was not convinced at all by the former ones, I will have to listen to the new one. It is always great to listen to a Minute Repeater.
How will it sound? Is it noisy? Rich? Loud enough?
One to look at... The 8 Days Skeleton, one I loved a lot with the plain dial.
Your pictures make me want to see it in the flesh!
Thank you so much, Magnus ansd Oliver.
Best,
Nicolas
Minute Repeater ...
the one we listened to was disappointing, to be honest. Hopefully it was a prototype.
Thanks, Nicholas!
Oliver
Thanks, Nicholas!
Oliver
The ones I listened in the past ...
have been nice, but not too loud. This one was "strange", somehow.
Blancpain ultra plate
Thanks for your thorough report guys!
Can you tell me more about the new Villeret Ultra-flat, the one with the thick bridges where the mvement is 'turned upside down' that comes in black or white. Does the watch come in WG or in SS (I assume SS, looking at the picture)? What price range are we looking at?
Thanks!
I guess you are asking about ...
Ref. 6616-1527 (white ceramics) and 6616-1530 (black ceramics). As you can see from the "15", both are available (only) in WG.
Oliver
Oliver
Our Conclusion!
For the last few years we were concerned about the direction of Blancpain, it seemed to lack focus and appeared as a result of a lot of trial & error in search for answers to a changing market.
With this year’s novelties we have the impression that Blancpain changed with its market, or, better perhaps, decided to focus on different markets. In fact, we have the impression that Blancpain took its collections and streamlined them individually to broaden the appeal to a wider audience:
- One focus market clearly is the Chinese or in a wider sense Asian customer in general. The Villeret line seems to be dedicated to the now affluent Asian client with a lot of detail work and playfulness.
- The L-Evolution collection is aimed to address new (& younger) customers with its racing car theme. Blancpain makes good use of car-inspired references and materials albeit it lacks some originality (which is common to similar watches of almost any manufacturer).
- Third, the ‘real’ tool watches are well represented with the 50, 500 and X Fathoms where some really outstanding watches are to be seen.
To sum up, the ‘old’ Blancpain collector may like it or not, we are witnessing the arrival of the ‘third’ Blancpain (after the original firm & the resurrection in the 1980s). This ‘new’ Blancpain is a diversified company that caters to many with interesting products, but it is not the brand that produces watches immediately recognised as a ‘Blancpain’. This development is less a watchmaking- but a business-driven development, and makes sense in respect to the latter.
Magnus
I think it comes with no surprise that I love the X Fathoms. It’s a tool and not a watch, thus I do not care about the humongous size. Given the merits of the watch I can happily accept it. It plays the technical strength of the brand well but might overdo it a bit in its features (thus diminishing a bit its practical value). Its an impressive statement, well done!
The second welcome addition to me – in principle – is the re-introduction of the Cal. 15 derivatives. I am in deep love with this simple but distinctive calibre, and ever since Blancpain presented the 40mm Villeret in 2005 I urged Marc Hayek to fit this movement into the new cases.
I would have preferred a simple decoration in a simple watch (at best a marriage between the movement of the Chinese limited edition and the face of the Minute Repeater), but I applaud Blancpain for playing the strength of the movement with its different presentations this year. It shows that the watchmakers have understood its potential which is a good thing and definitely stirs a craving for more!
Finally, the matte finish of the 50 Fathoms is just splendid - I loved it already with the Aqualung of last year and this year it comes as it should be: as a 'simple' 50 Fathoms with no frills!
Oliver
I am not a diver, but already bought three diving watches from Blancpain in the past. Is it weakness, craziness or just stupidity, what makes me love them? But once more my first choice would be a diver -the X Fathoms. The concept behind, the execution, the style … and even in this (big) size comfortable on my wrist, to make it short – I love it ?
My second choice would be the simple Fifty Fathoms with the matt finished red gold case and a dark brown Barennia strap. I know the movement since five years now and it still is one of my most reliable and perfect running movements. In that “luxury” combination it is just perfect for a chilling summer holiday.
L-Evolution Chronographe Flyback À Rattrapante, this is one more watch that I appreciate for several reasons. To me it is the first watch from Blancpain that really fits to their car racing ambitions – not only because of its complication. Most of the details (design of the case, the crown, the pushers, the indexes …, carbon fibre inserts, the matt finished cases …) are very nice and very well made. Only the big red numbers I don´t like that much and I would prefer the Alcantara strap with grey stitching for both versions. The digital style Large Date adds some extra spice and the jump in a second at midnight I always liked a lot. The finish of the movement and the view on the movement is very nice. Could imagine that watch in a titanium version or another light metal … in the future.
(sorry, no pics of the two photographers here... ;-()
Magnus & Oliver
Excellent summary report.....
Love the X Fathoms, but even with a 40th birthday this year - this won't be the special purchase for myself.
Perhaps I could delay a little, as Nicolas says, incase they bring out something 'true' to the vintage FF a lot of us love.
Also, I like very much their move towards offering the brushed case on the fifty fathoms - a good quality shouldn't just be a glossy shiney case if its to be considered a tool watch. (just my opinion)
thanks for your time in the preparing this report for us.
Cheers tony
Thank you,
Been eagerly waiting for this report. Comprehensive and quite informative as always. Thanks guys.