Richard Mille

                                                                                

Dear Friends

 

I have been following the various discussions over the last few weeks with interest and I must say that certain terms such as ‘overpriced’, ‘marketing product’, ‘poor quality control’, have disturbed me greatly as I have always aimed at an approach which couldn’t be further away from these descriptions.

 

That said, it is true of course that with such radical technical ideas, there will always be certain amount of fine-tuning necessary after production.  However, I do believe that these problems have been grossly exaggerated but as I have an idea as to what is behind these ‘grotesque’ reactions, I would nevertheless like to take this opportunity to explain my position.

 

Before I start, it is worth mentioning that since the creation of the brand in 2001, we have delivered thousands of watches and the percentage returned to us doesn’t exceed 5%.  Nevertheless I recognise that we have had some difficulties, in particular with the RM 005, and this has naturally exasperated some of you.  I will explain the reasons for these problems and the solutions that have been put in place.

 

I want my watches to be extremely sophisticated and full of technique.  For me it is of utmost importance to push the boundaries of technique and to be as innovative as possible.  This is not without risk however and requires a great deal of development and different manufacturing processes as well as quality control.  As my strategy does not include large volume production, this is a huge investment for a very limited number of watches.

 

Many of my competitors, whom you name, work with much more traditional processes and have done so for many years. Their developmental risks therefore are minimal.   On top of this, many of these same manufacturers have an industrial manufacturing process so they are also able to produce a far higher volume - this is not the case for me.  It is almost true to say that for the majority of models we make fall into the bespoke category, assembled by real human hands, something which is very important to me.

 

We reject around 40% of our production for one reason or other.   This is because the majority of pieces are finished by hand and not by machine.  If I had wanted machines for finishing the watches I would have been able to divide this level of rejection by 10, but this is the way I want it and this is why each piece is unique.   No watch will perform the same way as another even though they may share the same model reference.   I do not want my watches to become industrialised.  This is true for the tourbillons as well as for the automatic RM 010s, RM 011s, RM 016s and RM 007s – and just for the record, we reject about 70% of the automatic baseplates.  Those of you who are awaiting delivery for any one of those models will know what I mean!   I don’t know any other manufacturer, who would be hugely enthusiastic about using titanium baseplates with a pvd treatment, but I consider it an absolute necessity to use a rigid material in a baseplate and therefore I have to accept the level of wastage.  I am not masochistic however!

 

My philosophy is also to develop new and sometimes extreme models irrespective of their cost and of course, when you take this course of action the risk involved is huge.  I’ll be honest with you – with the reputation we have managed to build up, I could easily develop a ‘high street’ calibre without too much trouble.  Something in brass, without any innovative features, but something that nevertheless had the RM ‘look’ and could be sold at an affordable price.  This would be easy to produce, boost my sales no end, make much more profit and give me fewer headaches.   However, this is not my philosophy at all.   Let’s look at the new models I’m introducing this year – the RM 018 of which each wheel in precious or semi-precious stone is a nightmare to manufacture, and the RM 020 of which the crown alone is a technical innovation (the chain and crown are made up of 165 pieces …)  

 

And then there are the RM 004s and RM 008s; the complexity of these models is such that only a few watchmakers are capable of assembling them.  For your information, the development of these models started in 1999!  One of the challenges we face is a build up of static electricity between the sapphire glasses.   The steel hands magnetically charge between the glass and start going mad!  To correct this we are developing titanium hands which we will use for all new models as well as replacing those already on the market.  Another problem which concerns these two models is related to the large diameter crown which allows the watch to be easily overwound.  This results in too much stress on the spring endangering the barrel.  We are now using a dynamometric crown to avoid overwinding.   In finding the solution to these two problems we have eliminated around 80% of all the quality issues we have encountered with these models.  It is fair to say that we are dealing with complex mechanics here with most of the movements comprising several hundred different parts many of which cannot be seen with the naked eye.  They are in fact the Formula 1s of the watch world but are used more like 4x4s as Mille watches are more often than not worn and not left in the safe.    However - let me use the RM 004 as an example once again  - what other brand would invest huge sums of money, thousands of hours of developmental time to produce only 30 or so watches per year? I can assure you that we are as far away as possible from manufacturing a ‘marketing product’.  So far as my margins are concerned, I am fully aware of the margins being applied by others and I can assure you that mine are well within the norm, not outrageous, and in fact totally necessary in order that we can continue to innovate and develop.  You will also grant me the fact too that so far as developments and innovations are concerned, these have been many and numerous.   I repeat with the greatest of pleasure that it would be wonderfully easy and a lot more profit making if I produced commercial products.  As far as the Mille models are concerned, it’s true that they cost money but I would say that the word is ‘costly’ rather than ‘expensive’.

 

It is also fact that we have had certain problems with the RM 005 and RM 010.  The oil used on the stones would not adhere and as result simply dispersed.  This is what has caused this phenomenon of what some people call ‘tarnishing’ and this is entirely the wrong word for what is happening.    It is in fact a coating made up of a mixture of oil and other material that has hardened to a reddish paste and has started to cover the joints, rotors, etc. as the oil spreads away from the stones.   It has taken us several months to fully understand why this was happening until we found the answer.  This was the reason why models were coming back, being cleaned up and coming back again.  The solution lies in fact  in rinsing or bathing the parts in a treatment called a ‘bain de passivation’.   We have also had issues with the straps because the joint between the strap and the case is extremely complex.  We have had problems with the date change on the RM 011 which stopped the watch completely and our folding buckle has also been the object of some recent modification.  As our friend Teo Matheus has already said, we have been taking care of these issues, we are not just ignoring them and, contrary to the impression a few may have, the problems are not quite as numerous as you may have been led to believe.   I am totally aware of the responsibility I have towards my customers and because of our low volume, we are able to carry out upgrades reasonably easily.    Our distributors and sales outlets are dedicated to the brand and they know they are witnessing an historic moment in watchmaking.     As in the case of the RM 011 recently sold in New York, one only needs to look at the second-hand watch sales on auction sites to see that the sale prices of Richard Mille watches remain reasonably high (bought for 60,000 US dollars and sold for 56,000 US dollars).   And this during a period of economic crisis!  You will also notice that of the thousands of watches we have delivered (over 5,000 since 2001) only a few have ever come up at auction which would indicate that our customers like to keep their babies!

 

One of the others reasons which compelled me to participate in your Forum was the fact that I could not accept the criticism directed at our fantastic watchmakers, production and after-sales team in Les Breuleux, at Renaud-Papi and Vaucher.  They do an incredible job and are dedicated to the brand.  Many of these extremely talented watchmakers have left ‘quiet’ jobs to join us in this great adventure which is the Richard Mille story.  They don’t count their hours and have a totally responsible and impeccable work ethic of which I am proud. 

 

To conclude, I humbly believe if it was not just by a stroke of luck that I had the great honour of receiving the L’Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie in Geneva and that receiving a further award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie, Asia Edition, one year later is recognition of the efforts and work we have dedicated to watchmaking.

 

Although I have given some of you a few serious headaches recently, the majority of Mille owners I meet tell me frequently that they love their watches, some of them own several, and they are not, to my knowledge, masochists!

 

Watch connoisseurs say that we are living through an important moment in watchmaking history.  Auctioneers don’t hesitate to say that Richard Mille watches represent a rupture in watchmaking and are a good investment, despite the fact that the brand is still young, and this investment like good art can only increase in value.

 

One last thing before I sign off – I’m not out of surprises yet so keep an eye out for what’s coming next!

 

 

                                                                                                                                                                     RICHARD MILLE

 

This message has been edited by 219 on 2008-10-27 07:44:54 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-11-08 15:35:36

One important thing is Mr.Mille take the look in this forum , and he understand our concern . RM would have great future .

Its great to hear good words from Mr.Mille, I remember when I met him back in 2007. Excellent guy I love his watches and RM is here to stay!

although i dun see the need for your response, i'm glad you did.......

to respond generally to some of the comments made here.  Wishing you all the best and looking forward to what the future holds.

Cheers!

Andrew H

PS.  Note from the Moderator, this message is genuine - it is from Richard Mille.

Mr Mille,

Please let me give you my sincerest congratulations for what you've accomplished so far under your name and before the creation of your company.

I'm a great fan of your work as indeed I see it as truly original and innovative.

I'm not an owner of any of your watches, yet!

I'm very happy to read your post, because as a non-owner (yet again) I'm interested in having your opinion on the subjects at hand, so that all parties have given their vision.

I respect very much the way you come to us and share apparently very honestly the real life of your company.

If I wanted to avoid any risk with a watch, I would buy a brand new Rolex (what I've never done) and forget all my favorite brands. I would loose a lot and may end up with problems anyway!

Best regards

Dje

ps: my invitation for lunch in the best "creperie" of Concarneau is still available, you probably didn't see it the first time I posted it! 

To explain eveything and clear all the doubts we been having. Got a RM005 recently and it definitely helps in explaining the problem related to this watch. Thanks!

I was a fan since the very beginning. My first RM is a series AB and ever since there is always another RM watch that I would like to add to my collection.  Thanks again for sharing your passion with us and not compromising at all. 

 

 

Ciao .

My compliments to you  and your post  you have just swayed me towards a RM knowing the company philosophy is about taking care of your customers impresses me and wanting to get on the forum and explain or reply to all the posts from the past weeks is pure class and now i am starting to understand what RM is about, as they say it all starts at the top.

Im very surprised to see a high end brand return with a post as such as yours, you and your brand are on the right track as the other brands here dont have the same ideas as RM which is sad.

I was one who posted also about RM and must say with what you have explained i am in full understanding and also withdraw any overpriced tags  from my post i think its important to share your point here but also concede that your point may have been wrongly posted with information given, so i admit now i understand a little more about the RM brand that my post was made with out knowing the full story.

Once again Mr Mille i would like to congratulate you and thank you for showing all your class and RM too.

I only wish i could see your brand here in Sydney Australia as there are no boutiques here to see your amazing looking pieces.

Thankyou Garry

Personnaly, I appreciate a lot the gesture, and even think it's a good thing that a CEO answers directly to the critics.

I also appreciate that you pointed out some of the problems you had on certain watches of your brand, in total honesty.

Yep, you're right, each brand has its quota of problems, and you're top class enough to not hide yourself behind this argument.

Once again, thanks a lot for the time you took to answer, and BEST OF LUCK for your future surprises!

Nicolas

i especially like this part:

"One of the others reasons which compelled me to participate in your Forum was the fact that I could not accept the criticism directed at our fantastic watchmakers, production and after-sales team in Les Breuleux, at Renaud-Papi and Vaucher. They do an incredible job and are dedicated to the brand. Many of these extremely talented watchmakers have left ‘quiet’ jobs to join us in this great adventure which is the Richard Mille story. They don’t count their hours and have a totally responsible and impeccable work ethic of which I am proud. "

the persons sepaking negatively about the brand/yourself/etc surely dont know the hard work that goes into the pieces... yes you will have small problems BUT this is what happens with hand made pieces.

 

Rarely in the Watchmaking industry, or in any other, have I read such open and honest disclosure and discussion about production and maintenance issues on a public site from a company CEO.

 

I don’t yet own an RM, but have appreciated the design from afar, and this sort of response raises my appreciation of the brand and your work even further.

 

Bravo Mr Mille.

 

Andrew

Without any doubt, a very important assurance to all present and future Richard Mille watch owners. The vast majority of high end watch brands have several problems they try to deal with as best as they can. Nevertheless there are not many who address these problems openly and publicly, and I think none has ever done it trough the highest level. An informed watch collector is or should be aware that a particular watch of any brand can develop problems. More so when he chooses a brand that is on the cutting edge of watch making technology. This kind of recognition and assurance by Mr Richard Mille is certainly proof that the brand is not only focused on selling and developing new models. Taking care of their customers is also a very important aspect. I think this is what every present and future Richard Mille owner would like to hear from the brand they love.

 

Thank you Mr Richard Mille!

 

Carlos Torres

After reading what Richard has written,  I now can understand the passion, love and difficulty in his horological adventure. I have a RM5 and there is some"tarnish" on the rotor and this can be fixed up. I look forward to my singapore agent to help me as I want to keep this watch among my collection.

Thank you Mr Mille for sharing your philosophy and passion and spread the "love" around.

 

Regards

Ale

How sometimes we need to take a step back and llok at the whole picture. We forget about all the hard work of so many people, that are working day after day, behind the scene,  with so much passion and dedication. My deepest respect for the team. Now will be thinking twice before criticizing, which is so easy, and can be so unfair.
Thank you for taking the time to give such a detailed and honest explanation.

K.

P.s: Apologise to Andrew as well. Went a bit out of hand, and u were right

forum and part of being a moderator.  Appreciate your taking the time to look at the situation and take a step back - speaks volumes about you as a person.

Hope to see you around here a lot more often.

Andrew H

...Because some of us sometimes need a little moderation
In the 1st place, we are a small community to gather here to share our passion for watches, along the universe of watchmaking.... and when passion comes into the equation, reason often leaves
One thing we all agree on, RM is unleashing the passions


K.

confidence to the future of the brand and that my RM 005FM which also show some "spot" / "tarnish" on the base plate and running slow over 2 mins a day will be well taken care of in Mille's hands.

for yr explaination and this show to us to you care for our problems.Highly appreciate for yr effort and its mean alot for us as RM customers.

Actually i got 'almost' same explaination for ms.Debby before i post my problem here but silly me to believe more on 'tarnishing theory'.Here is explaination from mr.Debby.....it may be that the oil has dispersed with use and caused these parts to dry.  The result is that the un-oiled parts discolour and develop a 'rusty' appearance.  This is easily rectified and the parts will be surface treated and re-oiled during its next service. 

Best RDGS

Teo Matheus

Richard Mille - Thanks for taking the time to respond.  Your words have contributed significantly to educating us on your design philosophy and to clearing up areas of misunderstanding and lack of information.  I'm especially encouraged to hear from you how commited you and your team are to customer service.

I want to reiterate that I recently bought my first RM, a RM010, and so far it has had no problems.   I wear it more often now than any other watch, and find it makes a very comfortable daily wearer.  It keeps great time, and I have not noticed any problem with oil, or any other problems.  I bought this first watch more or less to test the waters before making a bigger commitment.  Other watches I'm considering eventually getting are RM004 and RM011.  When I saw several posts I began to become concerned about purchasing further RM watches.  I was also concerned, because I like RM watches and want very much for them to earn the reputation for being well made.  To get such a reputation, I believe newer brands have to work even harder than older brands that have already established their reputation long ago.

So, that was my motivation in raising criticism based upon posts I had seen.  I hope that when people get their problems ressolved, they will post follow ups saying how well they were treated, and how well their watch was serviced.   I don't wish to apologize for the criticism I've made.  I'm actually glad that I've made those criticisms, and that has resulted in your response.  Had I done nothing, there would only be those various posts of displeasure, and no greater understanding.  Reading those posts by themselves might only give potential customers concern about buying a RM watch.  Now, they have much more information, and I think potential customers will be much more likely to have a positive image of RM.  I know I have a much more positive impression now.

I'm looking forward to hear from customers who have made posts, with their hopefully positive criticisms of the service they received.
Eric von Schonberg

Hi,

It was stated that the creation of the brand was in 2001.  However, it was also stated that the development of RM004 and RM008 started in 1999.  How could that happen?  Does it mean that the development of the models actually started before the creation of the brand.

 

Regards

Ling

 

Yes, it is, the development of the RM004 and RM008 actually started before the creation of the brand.

Here is something I wrote a while back regarding the latest "complaints" regarding RM. To be honest this has been happening not only with RM, but as a tendency in general.

kronosclub.blogspot.com

I get many questions regarding buying a 004 and I can only recommend it to certain people. Some I rather tell them to go for a 011 instead since not everybody is ready for a 004. Buying these watches should not be measured in terms of "...if you have the money", but rather in terms of "... are you ready for this watch". Nothing wrong with having a big purse yet it is a mistake to buy according to our purse. Big mistake. If until now you had a quartz and just won the lottery... you are NOT ready for a manual Tourbillon!

I still love my RM004v2 and would not trade it for nothing. What I know for certain is that every time it would go for service, if need be, it will return a better watch. How many can say that in the industry?

P.s. Please remove if this infringes Forum rules etc...

On this information, should I wait for a new delivery of 010s rather than buy one in stock now, so that the modifications will have been done?

As a newbie here who has just bought an RM010 in White Gold, I would like to say thankyou to Mr Mille for posting as he has done above. After reading the tarnishing and other negative posts I was concerned about if I had done the right thing, now I fully understand & believe Richard's ethics/policies and am delighted that I got the 10, safe in the knowledge should it have an issue it will be resolved.

Loving the watch, I think the Mille watches are the most stunning pieces I have come across, all I need now is to win the lottery so I can collect a full set of the lot of them!!

Thanks Richard for your vision in producing my timepiece and thanks for taking the time to post as you have done above, I am indeed a very happy and proud RM owner...cheers

First, thank you for your creativity and commitment to maintain the highest quality standards that reward enthusiasts willing to invest in your terrific line.

Second, as an early adopter and owner of many fine pieces, I own a RM005 and that is currently out of warranty. If I experience the "dispersion issue" (formerly misdiagnosed as "tarnishing") can this be cleaned/repaired as part of my overhaul ($500)? Also, with the fullest respect, are there any other mechanical issues with my RM005 I should monitor?

I am about to purchase my third piece and am happy to support such wonderful ingenuity...

All my best and thank you,

C

It's wonderfully refreshing to see a brand owner take a stand and clarify issues.  That shows commitment to products, services, and customers.  And it puts speculations and misunderstandings to rest.

May the future bring inspiring innovations and much success to RM!

Cheers,
Wootichai