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The Crown-Operation-System (COS) Chronograph

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : April 28th, 2012-07:42
One of the iconic Habring2   watches, and one of those that really convey the message of the producers. By modifying the Valjoux base movement such that the pushers could be omitted (Chronograph is entirely controlled by the crown), the watch gains elegance and simplicity. Furthermore, fewer serviceable parts are needed, and two holes in the case are missing, resulting in less risk of failing seals.



Here I'd like to show a version where seconds and minute counter both are located on the central axis, and thus indicate elapsed time in the normal time display:



The following graph shows how the system is implemented. An additional wheel on the crown axis is interlinked with a pawl that directly (without the need for a column wheel or a cam/lever construction!) operated the chronograph:



The graph also nicely demonstrates what would happen if you pull out the crown for setting the time: wheel and pawl would simply disengage.

The entire beauty and brilliancy of the construction is immediately apparent once you compare it to a standard ETA Valjoux 7750 movement (left):



Back to the movement (ok, this one here is a bit turbo-charged... more later!):



The COS pawl here is disconnected from the COS wheel. At the 12 to 01 o'clock position you can see the COS spring:



The reset cam:



The elegance of the watch is met with a vibrant design the excites with voluptuous shapes and colours:





The optical benefit of COS is highlighted if you inspect it from the side:



The movement is of course visible from the back, here the handwound version (automatic exists as well):



Finally, on the (=my) wrist:



This message has been edited by Magnus Bosse on 2012-04-28 09:42:37

i really like the simplicity of the COS without subdials

 
 By: G99 : May 2nd, 2012-13:47

you do of course lose out on a constant second hand, but you can always use the chrono a la MIH.

thanks for all the detailed info Magnus.

Graham

The Doppel 2.0

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : April 28th, 2012-07:43
I wrote about this new edition of the legendary split-second mechanism already recently . However, I now have real-life image material and thus decided to repost an amended version of my original text.

The IWC Doppelchronograph is one of the iconic classics of watchmaking. With this watch, IWC delivered a fine complication that was implemented in the typical style of the house under the leadership of the late Günther Blümlein: robust, reliable, affordable (image taken from the web).



This watch was developed by Richard Habring, and there is a nice story to it reported in an 2004 article by Dr. Markus Hanke here on Purists:

(Richard) wrote dozens of applications, also to the famous watch manufacturers in Switzerland. However, most of them made a good command of the French language mandatory, which unfortunately had not been part of the watchmaking school’s curriculum. Only IWC replied and invited him for an interview. Richard saddled his old car and made the ten hours drive to Schaffhausen with high hopes, but somehow, things did not go well. While he was eager to speak about new ideas, toubillons and other high horology concepts, his interview partner seemingly had more interest in a watchmaker for routine service and repair activities. Massively disappointed, Richard returned home, and even had an accident with his old car.

As it is sometimes the case, life then took an unexpected turn: As it was common practice, the applicant’s travel expenses were refunded by the company. When Richard sent his fuel bills to IWC, the company’s president, Günter Blümlein happened to find the letter, together with the complete file Richard had sent to Schaffhausen when he applied. Therein were all the data about the concepts and especially tourbillons Richard had already made before. Immediately, Blümlein insisted on getting this young man straight back in front of him. Consequently, a brief phone call now changed Richard’s life.

Following his move to Schaffhausen, Richard joined a team of young watchmakers under the liberal leadership of IWC’s legendary chef developer, Kurt Klaus. It was assigned with the development of an innovative split second complication, which could be integrated with the existing chronograph movement, already used in the renown Porsche Design Chronograph. Within a remarkably short time, Richard presented an ingeniously effective design and the base of the "Doppelchronograph”.

The efficiency of Richard's solution lies in the abandonment of the column wheel that controls the split-seconds mechanims. Such a wheel is not only costly to produce, it is also - in this functional position - difficult to adjust. Thus, Richard devised an eminently simpler construction that used a cam-like mechanism (picture from Marcus' article):



This ingenius solution was granted a patent (DE4209580A). It also added to the 'democratisation' of the split-seconds complication, like it or not.

This watch has never left Richard's mind even after he established his own atelier together with Maria. A large reprint of of the Doppelchronograph adorns the atelier's walls (again, pic from Markus):



On 24 March 2012, Patent DE4209580A expires and Habring2 is able to present a new, upgraded version of this split-seconds mechanism aptly named Habring2 Doppel 2.0:



On the first sight the main difference - apart from the obvious design language - lies in the position of the subdials for minute counter and permanent seconds, which are left at the 3 and 9 o'clock position, respectively.

The technical differences relate to implementation of the split-seconds mechanism and improve the serviceability of the watch:



Here a close-up of calibre A08MR demonstrating the simplicity in design. Note how different the split-seconds cam is designed:



The Habring2 Doppel 2.0 comes exclusively in a 42mm steel case and blue, grey or brown galvanised dial, each with a reasonable price tag of € 6.000.-:



Let's start with the blue one! Habring2's blue colour is one of the most emotionally appealing ones in industry (well, let's not count De Bethune! ;-)) and contrasts extremely nicely with the orange split seconds hand (here on Maria's wrist):



A push on the crown at 10 o'clock...



... and the split dissappears:



A courageous colour concept is the brown version (which I also happen to like a lot! Wrist model: Richard):



Finally, two images of the grey version (again Richard):





Whatever colour available, I am quite sure that this watch will be a commercial success. The combination of complication construction, design, price and the people behind is most compelling!

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It might sound

 
 By: aldossari_faisal : April 29th, 2012-11:53
too technical but to me its pure poetry and seeing this innovative work landing again at the lap of the creator leaves a wide smile on my face... let alone the seduction of the design, color combination and sure the complication... did i forget to say price as well?biggrin any video of the watch in action?

Thanks for taking the effort to put all this together.

 Faisal
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The Foudroyante

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : April 28th, 2012-07:44
As one of the rarest complications at all, the Foudroyante à la Habring2 is additionally unique in that it is an addition to a Chronograph mechanism (e.g. Girard-Perregaux), but it is added as a stand-alone complication (well, together with the jumping seconds, of course!). Thus, with a Habring2 Foudroyante one acquires a timepiece with two fast jumping time indications (Foudroyante & Jumping Seconds):



What is so mesmerising with a Foudroyante is not only the optical appeal of this complication, based upon the speed and precision (of the jumping hands, if implemented well ;-)), but also the care and precision needed to actually realise such a watch.


As one can anticipate, Habring2's implementation is simple and straightforward. One the escapement wheel's pinion a large Foudroyante wheel is mounted that interacts with a second, small Foudroyante wheel. On top of the latter's pinion we find the Foudroyante hand. One main difference compared to other Foudroyante constructions is the lack of a separate spring barrel to drive the hand!



The primary challenge of the Foudroyante is thus that it is driven from the same mainspring barrel than the going train. This implies that the necessary energy needs to be considered for the overall energy balance of the movement.

What Habring2 managed to accomplish is nothing short of amazing: Surely, the energy drain from the mainspring barrel is higher and the torque as well (due to the fact that the Foudroyante mechanisms interacts with the escapement wheel). Thus, also the balance's amplitude is lower but still within the specifications of the ETA Valgranges base movement!

How is that possible? Well, the reason is that the functional components of the mechanisms are nearly weightless!

I'd like to highlight three separate issues to illustrate how it is achieved. First, we look at the Foudroyante hand: Note how tiny it is compared to the balance wheel:



It is quite obvious that specific production techniques are needed to produce such a watch. In this case, the hands are stamped into extremely thin aluminum sheets and subsequently cut out with scissors:





Second, the large Foudroyante hand merits a closer view:



With patience and care Richard puts together wheel and bearing:



To illustrate how tiny and lightweight the wheel is I asked Richard to tell me the weight of the wheel. His answer: "Sorry, we don't have a balance that would be sensitive enough... but its so light it swims on water!" - which he gladly proved to me:



Mounting the bearing on the wheel requires patience, a steady hand and good eyes:







Fixing it:



(Almost) Finished:



Only the axis needs some polishing:



The third part is the small Foudroyante wheel. Its also of minuscule dimensions:



Like the Foudroyante hand, it comes as a sheet of galvanised aluminum:





Polishing of the hole:



Now the components of the mechanism are finished and can be assembled:



The results is a watch that certainly demonstrates watchmaking aptitude in an unusual implementation. Like my neighbour said: "Its a watch that really mirrors my very hectic life!"









This message has been edited by Magnus Bosse on 2012-04-28 09:40:13
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i have weakness for Foudroyante

 
 By: aldossari_faisal : April 29th, 2012-12:08
simply amazing.

 Thanks

Faisal
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The Tourbillons

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : April 28th, 2012-07:44
The last part of this post shall deal with the 'crown of (watchmaking) creation', the Tourbillon. With Habring2, you have the choice of two entirely different versions:



On the left you see the traditional Tourbillon with a centrally mounted balance, on the right the modern one with a straight escapement layout like is a standard mechanical watch. Why two, and what are the difference?

The rationale for offering two different version lies in their specific objectives: The traditional one is the one for the aesthete, focussing on the 3D effects and the mesmerising movement of such a construction. The modern one is the performance-optimised racing engine in Habring2's stable.

We'll look at each of it separately!

1.) the Traditional Tourbillon:



Obviously, a flying construction based upon the original work of Richard on IWC's and later ETA 6498 movements. It highlights the three dimensions, features a large screw balance and an antimagnetic cage.


It also gives rise to fascinating effects on the dial:













On the back you see how it is integrated into the ETA UNITAS movement:



Wristshot:




2.) the Modern Tourbillon:

This Tourbillon is totally different from the above: performance-oriented, with little consideration to aesthetics. Optimised for low weight and robustness. No flying construction. Thick!







For a Tourbillon the construction comes with very little components (26 vs. 39 servicealbe parts; 41 vs. 99 if all parts are counted, compared to traditional Tourbillon). Almost all of them are made in-house:



Let's revisit the movement we have already seen in the COS part of the article:



First we'll take a closer look at the Tourbillon:


One can clearly see the splendid upper bridge supporting the Tourbillon cage...



... the straight-line escapement layout...



the Tourbillon fourth wheel integrated into the cage...



... the regulator...



... and admire the overall thickness and massiveness of the assembly:



Amazing that all of this massiveness effectively contribute to reduction of moveable mass and thus lower inertia at the escapement!

But how does it perform? No words, just an unregulated movement on the Witschi-counter:



This I think speaks to itself. This is a Formula-1 car on your wrist, nothing less!
This message has been edited by Magnus Bosse on 2012-04-28 09:41:33
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Some final words!

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : April 28th, 2012-07:45
I think I can spare me a final conclusion or appraisal. I am sure this series of articles shed some light into one of the most likeable contemporary watchmakers. The products speak a clear conceptual language (with in part a bit derivative design, but this is evolving, see e.g. the Doppel 2.0). Its also encouraging to see how the two further develop and advance their range of watches, and which decisions they take to achieve their ends.

Finally, I also like to highlight that Maria and Richard demonstrate how two individuals complement one another.

All that said, we had a last dinner at their home. Like in the atelier, kitchen work is shared...



... whereby I made sure to be close to the wines!



It certainly was one of the most intimate visits, it was a visit with personal friends.



We made our fun with Max, the watchdog, who also had to dress nicely to attend the farewell dinner:



Unfortunately, it turned out to be a real farewell as May died a few weeks later:



Well, that's life! 

At least, Mickey arrived recently to turn Habring2's life upside down!



I sincerely hope you enjoyed my series of reports. Thanks so much for being patient with me and all the delay that you had to incur.

Finally, a great, great thank you to Maria and Richard for your hospitability and your readiness to have us as your guest and to answer all my countless questions!

Cheers for now,
Magnus
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Thank you very much indeed, Magnus...

 
 By: pplater : April 28th, 2012-20:24
Due entirely to your insightful series, the Habrings now have another customer.

Cheers,
pplater.
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Glad to welcome you to the club! :-) [nt]

 
 By: dxboon : April 28th, 2012-22:32
No message body
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"Doubly" glad to be joining!"... ;-) [nt]

 
 By: pplater : April 28th, 2012-22:34
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A good choice...

 
 By: dxboon : April 28th, 2012-22:39
...from a watchmaker with a special connection to the complication.  Can't wait to see pix of it on your wrist!

Cheers,
Daos
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Magnificent work, Magnus!

 
 By: dxboon : April 28th, 2012-22:38
I feel very lucky to have you as a colleague here on PPro, and believe we both have a real connection to the work the Habrings are doing.  I really admire where they seem to be heading with their brand.  Thanks for all the wonderful insights and photos.  It's just been a fantastic series of articles!

Many, many congrats!

Cheers,
Daos 
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Wonderful report, Magnus!

 
 By: sanro : April 29th, 2012-03:40
I have one of those gorgeous brown dials "in the oven" for my wife.

It will be our second Habring2 (not that she knows yet wink)

It won't be our last...
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Great visit and insights..

 
 By: hans_jorgen_1968 : April 29th, 2012-12:45
.. Into a young and great watch brand.
And as is seems, some great people as well

Best
Hans
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what an oustanding report!

 
 By: nitediver : May 3rd, 2012-13:18

My sincerest  thanks Magnus for this wonderful report. It is almost as if we were with you in visting Habring2 at Voelkermarkt. The write up was so personal and at the same time very informative and detailed.

I must say that i am seriously tempted by the Habring Doppelchronograph (the blue dial is marvelous!) and as well by the COS.

regards,

Stefan
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Super posts Magnus.

 
 By: foversta : April 28th, 2012-11:07
Actually, I was expecting a lot this part and I wasn't disappointed. Glad to see "real" pictures of the Doppel.

Thanks for this comprehensive view on Maria Kristina and Richard Habring's work.

Fx


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Informative post.

 
 By: KIH : April 28th, 2012-17:29
... I like what they make and actually own one, nice jumping second with my choice of colors in 37mm case.  I just wish they make 37mm Doppel 2.0 in 37mm case again in the future.  Watches including chronos used to be in 36 or smaller case and why can't they make it today?  I am  just in the camp "the bigger, NOT the better"....

Thanks for the report.

Ken
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I second that.

 
 By: TdotBean : April 28th, 2012-19:01

A 37mm COS would really make my day ;D

Regards
Tyler
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Thank you for this marvelous report, Magnus!

 
 By: Gary G : April 28th, 2012-19:13
What a masterful combination of visual, technical, and emotional content!  I learned a great deal about the movements and got a much better sense of the makers.

The Habrings are fortunate to have a friend like you who takes the considerable time needed to discuss their philosophy and reveal their technique in such detail -- and we are fortunate to have them in the "family" of independent watchmakers we love so much!

All the best,

Gary
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Excellent report Magnus.............

 
 By: Topcat30093 : April 28th, 2012-23:30
Thank you.

I have learnt so much from your brilliant collection of essays and photos.

They look such a perfect couple and their watches are first class.

Regards

Tony


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This series of posts, is one that I will bookmark for continual future reference

 
 By: RJW : April 29th, 2012-04:11
Thank you Magnus for the entire series.  The quality of your writing and photography is wonderful. But even more so, thank you to Maria and Richard for letting you and us into their lives.

I like my jump seconds immensely.  I will like it even more now that I have this further knowledge about the Habrings; both the watches and the people.

Regards,
Richard.


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Thanks again!

 
 By: sidneyc : April 29th, 2012-18:21
This series of Introduction to the Habrings is fabulous!

Their Doppelgraph 2.0 is just stunning and indeed great value for money for such a high quality complication!
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Thanks Magnus.....

 
 By: Darren : April 29th, 2012-20:01

What a wonderful series of reports on a wonderful independent.  The Habrings have carved out quite a niche within the watchmaking world - I live virtually every timepiece they put out.

Darren

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Many thanks

 
 By: nickd : April 30th, 2012-06:34
Hi Magnus,

Many thanks for the reports, especially the techie details (just what the doctor ordered in this world of marketing fluff smile ).  I hope Richard and Maria realise what a great ambassador they have in you.  Could they use some of your images on their website?  Some of the closeups are superb.

nick




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A terrific series of posts--thank you!

 
 By: expwmbat : May 1st, 2012-11:04
Richard and Maria are wonderful people producing wonderful watches. I am happy to be a patron of their business, and frankly, would buy another of their watches in a heart-beat dead-second if they had another case design option!

If I may, there is one thing missing from your account: Richard and Maria run their business on the principles of sustainability and buying local--they know the maker of nearly every part of the watch they don't make themselves, and they buy from the best, closest sources, produced in the most sustainable way.

I think the values they demonstrate in their watches and business practices are fantastic (and as a professional ethicist, they meet the highest standards).

Cheers,
Daniel
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