Independents

[In this series of vignettes I will highlight a few of the key points that the independent watchmakers made during their presentations on Day 3 (June 1) of the IGOTT. Some are direct quotes that tickled my fancy, and others give you an insight into the watches presented.]

 

Paul Gerber

 

Introduced by MTF as: "the master of miniaturisation."

Started working for himself in 1976 making miniature clocks, restoring pieces for auction houses and building watches for friends.

 

Paul has worked for many companies and on many projects, most of which cannot be openly discussed. The Glashütte Original Flying Tourbillon is an example that can be mentioned.

The P10 watch is based on his ETA Cal. 42. "I thought to myself: what can I make special. I tried to make the dial something different. I engraved the dial with my own design."

 

"1 of 10" is engraved on the movement. Blued screws. Perlage. Salmon leather strap to match the titanium case. Black superluminova.

 

"I think it's a watch for everyday."

________________________________________________________________

Paul, his wife Ruth, and Michel Schmutz, US Importer and long time friend ...

There was a lot of interest at Paul's display table. A nice range of watches from the affordable ETA-based Model 42 to the in-house pieces shown in the dedicated posts below ...

Paul and Michel looking relaxed at the informal 'mixer' on the first evening ...

And more formal at the Gala Dinnner ...

Several PuristS were wearing their Paul Gerber watches at IGOTT2, so these images are a mixture of watches that Paul was displaying, and those already owned. I had the pleasure of trying on several ...

The Retro Twin (Ref. 157) was introduced in 2001. It features Pauls' patented double oscillating synchronous platinum rotors and retrograde seconds hand.

Contrasting with my 34mm Omega Constellation ...

Lovely depth in the movement, and the finish on the plates and rotors, and the blued screws, really catches the light ...

Available in rose gold, yellow gold and white gold ...

Still can't get over what great pictures you managed to take of these watches so quickly in poor conditions.

Thanks again - you don't often see Paul's watches - and it's great to see a moment like this documented!

- Greg

The Retro Twin is definitely my favourite. Love the simple and elegant dial.

Thanks for the great post, Andrew.

This is a very special watch, but at first glance only the spherical moon (measuring 6mm in diameter) gives it away. Inside beats the Cal. 33 in-house movement with Paul's own unidirectional impulse escapement. There is a large screwed balance wheel, screwed chatons and 18K rose gold gearing.

Th Model 33 was introduced in 2004 and was the first to use a spherical moonphase.The moon is made of blue lapis lazuli and half the sphere is covered in (54) diamonds. The moon is visible from the rear of the movement as well. The moonphase can be set at any time without fear of damage to the movement.

The 18K gold dial is produced at Paul's Atalier as well, with wave-like guilloche. Hand-made heat hardened and blued steel hands.

Movement fitted to case and curved sapphire for comfort. And there is a Breguet overcoil in there too. Escapement speed is 21600 vph ...

Gold buckle with engraved and enamelled logo ...

Three-dimensional 18K RG numerals really 'pop' ...

Good sized crown is a pleasure to wind ...

Andrew

The 42mm steel-cased Model 41 was on display with switchable, alternating continuous and dead seconds displays controlled by the button at 2 o'clock. This wach has a 100 hour in-house automatic movement with Paul's triple-rotor system.

 

Andrew

Here is a video of the Paul Gerber Model 41 with alternating seconds ...

 

The Model 42 is Paul's take on the sports watch. It is light (in titanium), and wearable with excellent legibility at 42mm and with an enlarged date wheel. While the movement is based on the ETA 2824-2 workhorse, Paul has added his synchronised 3-rotor system with rotors made from 18K rose gold. The signed buckle is in titanium as well.

 

Delivery aluminium case ...

Model 42 Synchron with green superluminova and matching stitching ...

The Model 41 (left) with the Model 42 Pilot's watch with aviator dial (note the navigation aid - triangle with two dots - at 12 o'clock). Hands and indices treated with superluminova and enlarged date.

Andrew

Limited Edition of 10 pieces (sold out). Based on the Model 42 with a 42mm titanium case, the P10 PuristS tenth-anniversary watch receives a special engraved dial with the "PuristS" logo designed by Paul and executed in his Atelier. There is a matching enlarged date disk and the hands, date and numerals receive black super-luminova. The strap is hand made from salmon leather in a colour chosen to complement the case.

The base ETA 2824-2 movement has Paul's patented synchronised triple-rotor automatic winding system with decorated 18K RG weights held with blued screws. The mainplate has been additionally decorated with perlage and engraved "One of Ten". There is a front page added to the Model 42 instruction manual describing the P10 Anniversary watch.

Dials with (right) and without (left) super-luminova applied. Note that the dial on the right was rejected by Paul as it did not have the right degree of detail in the engraving due to the coating applied. The dial had to be redone, delaying delivery, which was initially expected to be at IGOTT2 in Las Vegas. But everyone who has a Gerber P10 on order was very happy to wait. Another wonderful example of Paul's attention to detail and focus on perfection.

Note screw-in large crown.

This is the P10 movement with heat-blued screws securing the rotors, perlage, and "One of Ten" engraving.

'Standard' Cal. 42 on left, final P10 in middle and prototype P10 on right ...

Andrew

The initial post for Gerber's P10 watch and your post was my first introduction to his work.  The P10 is a beautiful watch and I believe the most affordable of all the anniversery offerings.  The multiple rotors are eye catching and the Purists engraving on the dial center is a nice touch.  Thanks for your reporting on all of the independents. 

Stewart

as a cat on a hot tin roof to see the real thing!

Cazalea

... I think came from Mitch who said that "anyone who has ever ordered a watch from an independent watchmaker understands the meaning of time."

At least we got to handle the 'prototype' watches, Mike, but the final pieces are going to be very exciting when delivered to their lucky owners.

Andrew

... a Vyskocil or Opus 3, Mike!

Stay on the sedatives and there shouldn't be too much longer to wait!



Andrew

but happily waiting.

Jeff

Thanks for the wonderful post, Andrew. I enjoyed it a lot. Paul Gerber's watches are really standing out. The idea with the the dead second that can be turned on and off is just great.

A few months ago, while in Zuerich, i had the idea to have a look at Paul Gerber place - well i tought it is a showroom. It was almost lunch time but Paul was kind enough to show me around his workshop on office.. What an eye opener. I have never been so close to watachmaking in my life. Paul and his wife as well as the two watchmakers were super nice to entertain my un-announced visit. I was truly impressed both by the watchmaking but as well by the hospitality that he and heas team showed to a unknown PuristS.

thanks again for the post.

Stefan

Paul and Ruth involved themselves in all the IGOTT2 events and activities. They are great people in addition to Paul being a gifted engineer and watchmaker.

Thanks for the story.

Andrew

I enjoyed your coverage of all the Independents very much!!

That aluminium delivery watch box is really something! Love it!

 

for sharing with us.

Especially the idea of an alternating second is gorgeous, isn´t it? I liked it a lot when I saw it in Basel this year.

Oliver

NT

always loved the works of PG the arrival of the 42 and 41 just opened new dimensions i believe, special thanks for the photos Andrew the press pics dont to justice to those creations especially the 41 . looking forward to own one of PG works someday . wishes of all the best to him as well.

Faisal