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1000% Ultra Thin!!! Elegant. Versatile.
Timeless. Wears amazingly well. A real horological feat so make it so thin. Hand wound. Most go for uniqueness of Mercator but Ultra thin is timeless. One of my all time favorites. Think again!
I like so much what you say!
I really feel the same way.
Have a great weekend.
Best, Emmanuel
Have a great weekend.
Best, Emmanuel
I am dwelling on buying this VC model
and also thinking about the 81180/000R-9159, which is a little bigger (40 mm) but perhaps more modern. If you had none of the two and would have to choose one of them as a keeper can I ask you which one would be your choice? Thanks and bon weekend. Pelle
I have tried both on and the 81180 felt too big on my 16 cm wrist. Also, it didn't feel very special or attractive to me.
Whereas I've been quite close to buying the 33155, which feels incredible on the wrist and which has such a beautiful movement.
THE 33155
THE "POLISHED" INDEXES OF THE 33155
THE APPLIED INDEXES OF THE 6099
So, between the two, my personal choice would be the Ultra-Thin 1955, without the slightest hesitation.
To be perfectly honest I have add one thing concerning the Ultra-Thin: I'm not completely fond of the indexes, which are neither applied nor painted. Masks that match the shape of the hour markers are applied to the raw dial base and, once the surface treatment is complete, the masks are removed and the hour markers are polished. It's a very innovative technique, but the indexes feel a bit flat. I personally prefer the applied indexes of the original ultra-thin model ref. 6099.
So that you can get a sense of how these watches wear on my wrist here are some photos (in fact, screenshots of videos I took at the time). And I have added a photo from Hodinkee of the indexes and a photo from Antiquorum of the ref. 6099.
Hopefully, it will be helpful.
Best, Emmanuel
THE 81180
THE 33155
THE "POLISHED" INDEXES OF THE 33155
THE APPLIED INDEXES OF THE 6099
Oh man I LOVE the indexes!
Not very common and flat and elegant like the entire presentation. More harmonious and in keeping with the overall design in my opinion.
These indexes are very special and I understand your love of them.
But it’s personally the only detail which I didn’t fully respond to. Just my taste of course. Also I would be very interested in seeing the blue indexes of the platinum variant.
Super post as always Emmanuel!
I really like the way you always bring both facts and your feeling into your post - highly appreciated. Between just the two of us,(!) when I discussed these two watches with a top technical guy at VC I thought (I can't put my finger on his exact words) I could sense that if to choose between these watches he leaned on the 40 mm for perhaps being a more recent modell and therefore perhaps more relaible. (I could be wrong). Thanks Pelle
Thank you so much, Pelle.
Here’s a photo of caliber 1400 which equips the 40mm Patrimony. It looks very good but you don’t get to see it because of the solid case back.
And I can imagine indeed that the thinness of caliber 1003 makes it a little more fragile. Also the crown is very small and the winding experience isn’t as easy and nice as with the 81180.
That said, I would still choose the 1955 because I loved it on my wrist!
Best, Emmanuel
And I can imagine indeed that the thinness of caliber 1003 makes it a little more fragile. Also the crown is very small and the winding experience isn’t as easy and nice as with the 81180.
That said, I would still choose the 1955 because I loved it on my wrist!
Best, Emmanuel
Historiques Ultra-Thin 1955 in any of the metals over virtually anything else the Platinum version being the ultimate watch for me.
Not only does this watch have one of my favourite Ultra Thin movements it is also a real Ultra Thin watch in every sense of the words and IMHO is just stunning and would be a pleasure on the wrist that in Platinum I would forsake all others for. In case I'm not making myself clear this would be my ultimate grail and exit watch in platinum.
Marc
I'm so glad you feel that way, Marc, and I can understand your feeling so well.
As I wrote just above to Pelle, I've been close to buying this watch in rose gold (I've never seen the platinum variant yet).
A VIEW OF THE INDEXES OF THE 33155
THE ORIGINAL REF. 6099 WITH APPLIED INDEXES
THE 33155 ON THE WRIST
However, there's one thing I'm not completely fond of concerning the 33155: the indexes, which are neither applied nor painted. Masks that match the shape of the hour markers are applied to the raw dial base and, once the surface treatment is complete, the masks are removed and the hour markers are polished. It's a very innovative technique, but the indexes feel a bit flat to me. And I personally prefer the applied indexes of the original ultra-thin model ref. 6099.
But apart from this point, I simply love this watch.
Here are a few photos giving an idea of what I mean concerning the indexes and of the watch on my wrist.
Best, Emmanuel
A VIEW OF THE INDEXES OF THE 33155
THE ORIGINAL REF. 6099 WITH APPLIED INDEXES
THE 33155 ON THE WRIST
The Mercator.
I will get one eventually unless some form of force majeure intervenes.... 😍♥️😍
Mercator is a dream watch...
...one of the few watches where I don't mind having to work a bit to know the time. People rightly praise the dials, but the case is gorgeous and the movement is great...
It's one of VC's icon and great achievement, no doubt about it.
But the 33155 still has my personal preference.