Ulysse Nardin

Among many other famous watches produced by Ulysse Nardin, there was one especially iconic design: a simple, straightforward watch, with an extremely unique feature. The "San Marco" Chronometer not only offered a COSC certified movement, which some fifteen years ago was still something rather rare, but it was recognized at very first sight. Already a short glimpse revealed a shimmering and gleaming dial, a combination of bright blue and a complicated pattern of lines, which seemed to be constantly changing at every movement and every variation in lighting.


The "San Marco" had a wonderful dial made from many layers of enamel lacquer on a base of guilloched silver. With every lacquer, the impression of transparency was increased, until it got this mesmerizing shine it became so renown for.

Since the "San Marco" was a small watch, with a diameter of only 37mm (and a ladies' version of 27mm), it was clear that it would not survive for long a trend of gentlemen's wristwatches with virtually exploding diameters. When Panerai created a veritable confusion when launching its 44mm timepieces, today 48 or even 50mm are barely even worth any discussion.

It is thus not astonishing that it was decided to discontinue the production of the classic "San Marco" Chronometer already several years ago. However, many customers did not care for the small diameter, as long as they could get the stunningly blue dial, and continued asking for it. This saved the "San Marco" from being deleted from the portfolio for a long while.

Finally, I was delighted to see Ulysse Nardin presenting a successor at the Basel fair this year. Called the "Classico" now, the former "San Marco" has not only become larger. At 40mm diameter, the new case is also cleaner and appears a bit more sportive, as a result of its wider crown (makes it easier to grip it for adjustment and winding) and more massive lugs. Appropriately, the water tightness rating was increased from 30 to 50 meters, in spite of the displayback, that offers a good view on the winding rotor, made from 22ct gold. The hands have still the same basic shape, but have become a little bit wider, in order to accomodate more luminous mass. This greatly enhances the watch's legibility at night.


Another, certainly more substantial change, is that the new "Classico" is now available with 18ct gold cases only; the formerly popular stainless steel version remains to be hoped for in the future. However, the "Classico" is a highly elegant timepiece, and somehow I can imagine that only in gold.


While the pink gold variant comes with either silver or black dial, and is a rather toned down combination, the white gold case is coupled with the famous bright blue enamel dial on guilloche metal base. I am convinced this will be a real winner, and might even gain further attention in case Ulysse Nardin decides to offer a white gold bracelet for it.



The blue dial also quotes the predecessor in featuring Roman numerals at 12, 6 and 9, while the pink gold "Classico" has even more purist hour markers applied to the dial.

For the ladies, UN offers variants with diamond-studded depictions of animals, beautifully combined with enamel.

 
Technical Data.

Movement    Caliber UN-815
Power reserve    Approximately  42 h
Winding    Self-winding
Functions        Chronometer C.O.S.C. , hour, minute and seconds hand. Date at 3 o’clock.
Case     18 ct rose gold or 18 ct white gold
Diameter    40 mm
Water-resistance    50 m
Crystal        Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back        Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Bracelet    Alligator leather strap with 18 ct gold folding buckle



This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2009-11-08 14:20:25 This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2009-11-08 14:23:52 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2009-11-24 09:12:10

Your pics don't help me to forget this piece.

A superb dressy watch from U.N.

The dial is to die for.

Best,

Nicolas

... or to displease them at least. It is a bit strange: When I posted the simple press release, with fewer pictures, in a German speaking watch community, this sparked a rather intense discussion. Can it be that German, or maybe Central European watch enthusiasts are more recptive to the classic design of the "Classico"? That it might be considered too sober, even boring my most of our international community members?

This could indeed support the statements made by Goris Verburg of IWC, in his PuristSPro interview, that the various markets greatly differ in the styles preferred:

home.watchprosite.com

Best regards,
Marcus

SADLY!

Dufour, VC, PP, LANGE etc...

There is a place for watches like this one.

But people seem to consider that no other brand has the right to release a dressy watch.

Snobism?

Lack of originality, exotism?

Best,

Nicolas

 

This message has been edited by amanico on 2009-11-11 03:16:49

What's inside?

I was wondering about the new caliber designation issued by UN. Until now, all 2892-based chronometers without additional modules had the UN-13. The new movement has a different rotor design, but I thought I could have seen a few other tiny differences as well, so I supposed that this could be the Sellita SW-300, which is more or less the same as the 2892A2, but is said to be available as parts kit, while ETA only delivers completely assembled movements.

Regards,
Marcus

I'm quite sure U.N made something special on this watch...

Best,

Nicolas

nt

for me. I owe my obsession with this wonderful, crazy and expensive passion to this particular Ulysse Nardin beauty. It holds a soft spot for me. In fact, i asked Rolf for and he was kind enough to make
for me a one-off 18kt. White gold version of the watch with a white gold bracelet. i believe it may be a piece unique. I cannot wait to see the new beauty!

Regards,
Eddy

... however, I wish they would offer a bracelet as well. This would enhance the contrast with the blue dial.

Regards,
Marcus

No message body

NT