SIHH 2007 - A. Lange & Söhne
Photos and text by Su JiaXian (SJX)
© April 2007 by Su JiaXian and PuristSPro.com com

2007 Basel and Geneva fair reports sponsored by Master Watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin.
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Two significant things happened at the standard bearer of German watchmaking this year. One is the streamlining of the collection - the 1815, Saxonia and Langematik ranges have all been discontinued and replaced with a new Saxonia line. The other is the Lange 31, unveiled in Dresden a few weeks before SIHH and the topic of much discussion.
The Lange 31 is big in all respects: 31-day power reserve The Lange 31 is without a doubt a technical tour de force. It has the longest power reserve of any wristwatch ever made, and probably the longest mainspring as well; three quarters of the movement consists of the 2 stacked mainsprings. All of the incredible torque generated by the two mainsprings is regulated by a remontoir which ensures a constant delivery of energy, on average, to the escapement.
Both mainsprings are so long that winding them conventionally via the crown would be unfeasible. Thus Lange has returned to the key winding technology of pocket watches and clocks, and the Lange 31 is powered up with a beautifully finished key that fits into a socket at the back. The key itself is complex, containing a "backstop ratchet to allow smooth winding", as well as "a torque limiter [to prevent] accidental overtightening of the springs". Two keys are provided with the watch, one for the desk and another for travel use.
I am full of admiration for the Lange 31. It is a masterful achievement. But like the Breguet La Tradition tourbillon, masterpiece or not, it is simply too big to wear. I know the mainsprings are enormous, and the size of the case is dictated by the size of the mainsprings, but that does not change the fact that it sits like a platinum hockey puck on the wrist. Nonetheless, those with large wrists and wallets will be tempted. Potential buyers would want to note that Lange will only start deliveries of this watch from late 2008 or early 2009 onwards; the company wants to complete delivery of the Tourbograph before embarking on production of the Lange 31. Next we move on the new Saxonia range. The first Saxonia was actually one of the original Lange watches presented at the rebirth of the company in 1994, along with the Lange 1, Arkade and Pour le Méritetourbillon. But somehow it never caught on and the Saxonia never saw the sales of its compatriots of 1994. Now along with the 1815 and Langematik collections, the Saxonia has been discontinued and replaced with a new Saxonia line that neatly encompasses the price points and complications of the outgoing watches, except for the 1815 chronograph. Taking the place of the Langematik with date is the SaxoniaAutomatik, available in the combinations shown below.
The 1815 manual wind has evolved into the Saxonia, available in five variations as follows.
And in the spirit of the times, no collection would be complete with an "XL" or in this case, "Grand" version. I present the 40mm diameter Grand SaxoniaAutomatik (the other two Saxonia watches are 37mm wide).
The Langematik-Perpetual was presented in pink gold this year, previously it was only in yellow gold and platinum. This watch looks best in this combination, the warmth of the pink gold complements the romantic blue and gold of the moonphase best.
Finally Lange unveiled two new models for ladies, the Cabaret Soirée and the Little Lange 1 Soirée. Both models are in pink gold with black mother of pearl dials and diamond set bezels, on matching galuchat (stingray skin) straps. These two watches are nothing inspired, the gold and mother of pearl combination has been done many times before; nonetheless they look very good, especially the Cabaret - it is probably the best looking Lange ladies watch to date.
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This is what Lange is all about -- super clean design -- no bling whatsoever -- its all about the minimalist design on the outside and the incredible craftsmanship and technology on the inside. A watchmaker's watch.
I'll have to see how it sizes out in "real life" but I'm quite impressed with this new direction.
As for the price, well, shoot, I really didn't want that Aston Martin V8 Vantage convertible *that* much.... 
G'day,
well, one can´t dispute about taste or preferences; on the "look", it´s certainly left to each.
One does like it or does not, that´s probably a very personal take.
Obviously there´s a lot of enthusiasts who like it, including a couple of folks who got the chance to try one of the 4 prototypes in Geneva.
Among these, reactions are pretty wide spread. A good share does like it as it is, a good number could do with a different dial and for some it´s too large; the number of the latter is surprisingly small, because it seems to be a wearable piece despite the absolute dimensions. Which, on a side note, are not larger than a variety of other introductions in Geneva or Basel for the last 2 years.
Lange is pretty tight about sales, but among "unusually well informed circles" word is SIHH results on the "Lange 31" is much exceeding any expectations and there are considerably more order than production capacities.
So for a not that small number of folks, obviously it´s perceived different.
But then, one might do well to keep in mind making a new dial, with different proportions for the indications, certainly is not the most challenging thing ever; it happened before new SIHH introductions were changed before actual delivery and it may or may not happen to the "Lange 31" as well. So, hmm, why not wait a bit, as this certainly will not happen before the end of next year.
As per the complication itself, of course it´s unnecessary.
This fate is shared with every Sonnerie, Tourbillon, split-second or minute repeater - in the end, you don´t need a mechanical watch compromising +400 mechanical movement parts to tell the time.
On the other hand, with dozens of brands featuring many hundred models sporting a tourbillon escapement and a good number of chiming timepieces on the market, there are really not that many truly new creations.
The idea of making a watch that runs for a full month in fact is not new; many clocks do so, since centuries ago.
Just that it wasn´t realized in a wrist watch before and thus the seemingly simple thing to have a power reserve of 31 days, where the watch does not more than to run accurate, might be less thrilling on casual view.
But despite the appearance and lack of "flashy" complications, one might ask as to why no other brand ever brought up something likely before, when wrist watches are the main pillar for an industry over almost a century?
If the seemingly simple goal is easily achieved, i´d guess it would have been done much earlier.
On making money (or return of investments), i´d play the devil´s advocate and say it´s highly unlikely Lange will make big money with this.
A simple three-hands movement is between 3-5 million Swiss Francs at development costs, before the first piece comes to life. This doesn´t include costs to actually manufacture the later watch.
Now the "Lange 31" is certainly not a simple watch and not a simple movement, therefore one might be tempted to keep in mind the development is slowly returned. Lange today does a few hundred chronographs only and the "Lange 31" is for sure not going to be made in higher production figures; again there are no hard facts, but estimates possible to gather did not exceed a production of 50-100 pieces per year at best. It´s quite a tricky mechanism, the case itself is difficult to produce and far from being a standard watch case and all this is done in the same way all Lange watches come to life, which is a slow and costly way first and foremost.
So given there are something medium 7 figures CHF in production costs in it and a few dozen pieces to be made each year, how can it make Lange really big bucks?
Doing such would need to establish a serial production of some volume, which to some degree is prevented by the mechanism. Just to name one detail, the movement of the "Lange 31" doesn´t rely on (cheaper) artifical diamond or silicium parts; everything is steel or "classic" brass parts, which are more difficult to produce than it would be by using some late technologies.
Over all, a couple of details may allow to conclude the 4 prototypes we´ve seen so far may not be the final stage of this model.
And on a close look, one might be surprised the movement actually *may* allow for other dimensions.
We know the barrels to measure 25mm in diameter and given the length of the two mainsprings, that´s probably a fact one can´t work around. Aside this, a closer view may tell a different story:
It´s for sure not a small movement, but then i´d guess the next 18 month until delivery of the first pieces, which are filled with ongoing R&D work on the "Lange 31", may bring a surprise or two...
Having seen it, i´d be very careful doing some definite statements. Personally i find the idea a very nice and very interesting one, the mechanism to be both tricky and new, the design to be something one might argue at length over.
But if one thing, to me the outer appearance is the least interesting aspect of the "Lange 31". At least the one we´ve seen so far, which may or may not be the final stage!
Cheers,
Peter
