The Watch
Breguet is a bewilderingly significant manufacturer with cultural significance and a profound impact on the entire history of watchmaking encapsulated in its seven-letter name. Pieces such as this Empire stand as often overshadowed evidence of the eternity of its design language. Hailing from the period before Daniel Roth worked with Jacques and Pierre Chaumet to commercialise the brand, this 1973 Empire represents one of the last periods of Breguet's 'vintage' operation and is made even more apparent due to the condition of this example.
In short, it's staggering. Mindblowing original condition. Measuring 35mm in width, the case of this Empire is uber-traditional, with three key Breguet hallmarks present. Firstly, its long lugs. Perfectly straight and emerging from the mid-case, the long lugs have rounded ends and a slight downturn to sit better on the wrist. Considering the mid-sized proportions of this Breguet, these lugs play a crucial role in the wearability and character of the Empire. Secondly, the quintessential coin-edge mid-case contributes hugely to the watch's personality, a recurrence of a sophisticated theme. Finally, a smooth, domed bezel sits around the case, cleverly drawing the eye to the dial due to its narrow width.
The dial nuances of any Empire are worthy of fanfare alone. Still, it's only due to the incredible condition of this example that we can fully appreciate the configuration and its craft. As you may assume with Breguet, the dial is packed with familiar elements, yet in execution, they're all slightly different from what we see today. The staple hand guilloché dial extends from the very edge of the dial to the subsidiary seconds register at six in the unmistakable clous de Paris aesthetic. This is contrasted with the equally revered brushed chapter ring, which houses the Roman numerals, dot minute track, and a second chapter ring for the sub-register. Finally, a set of pomme hands read the hour and minutes, but this is where the first of a different nuance is most apparent, and it's best encompassed as evolutionary nuances. While the hands are the classic Breguet style on paper, in execution, they aren't entirely straight but have some curvature that is closer to traditional leaf hands. They're also rendered in 18ct yellow gold rather than being heat-blued.
What makes this particular example even more extraordinary is the astonishing condition of its dial. Most dials of this era develop significant patina over time, yet after 52 years, this one remains remarkably well-preserved, showing barely any signs of aging. Such an immaculate state is incredibly rare, allowing the full brilliance of its intricate details to shine through as they were originally intended. Furthermore, the subtle difference between this era of Breguet and Roth's is more apparent once you begin to look closer. This era has an ever-so-softer and less modern feel in execution, which contains a level of allure that's difficult to pinpoint.
Owned by a Swiss watchmaker for most of its existence, this timepiece has been meticulously cared for by someone who truly understood its significance. Its exceptional condition is a testament to the careful stewardship it received over the decades. Only recently has it been passed to its current owner, making it a rare opportunity to appreciate a watch that has been preserved with the utmost respect for its craftsmanship and heritage.
The Movement
The calibre Peseux 260 powers this Empire, crucially remaining the original movement that the watch was born with in 1973. With only 3,300 examples of the movement produced between 1947 and the 1970s, it's significant. The 260 is one of the most accurate calibres of the era, and it was built to compete in the observatory chronometer trials. Despite being hidden behind a caseback, the movement is finished by hand and features perlage, Geneva striping, and an 18,000 beat rate.
How It Wears
While the Daniel Roth era of Breguet brought Abraham-Louis Breguet's vision to the masses, for the vintage collector, the Empire is charming and stands as a little more of a unique way of expressing passion for the great watchmaker. On the wrist, the size, length, thickness of hands, proportions, and muted execution of the dial; everything just comes together perfectly. The Empire, and certainly this flawless, museum-worthy example, may just be the ultimate in vintage watch collecting.
Condition
Complete an Extract Of The Archive from Breguet, this 1973 Empire is in immaculate, superb condition. The hallmarks are still visible and extremely crisp, and it's complete with its original Breguet pin buckle. The set comes with a modern Breguet wooden box as well.
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