jrwong23 (aka watchthebin)[Purist]
13960
Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph Part One
Jun 05, 2016,00:46 AM
In
recent months, we have enjoyed our discussions on the new Montblanc 1858
collection, where Montblanc’s designers dug deep into the archives of Montblanc
and Minerva for inspiration to create the new collection. It is also important
to note that Montblanc has also created watches purely from fresh, modern
ideas, design and innovation. The TimeWalker collection is one such collection,
which, though launched 22 years ago, is still very modern and avant-garde.
The
TimeWalker collection features a very distinct Montblanc design-DNA, with its
skeletonized horns and innovative materials mix. Since its launch 20 over years
ago, the collection has matured with watches ranging from time-only to dual
time, chronograph, twin flyback-chronograph and to the very high end of haute
horology with Montblanc Villeret’s movements; including the TimeWalker 100
(which can measure up to 1/100th of a second) and the most recently
launched Montblanc TimeWalker Pythagore
Ultra-Light Concept.
For the month of June, I will share some details on
the Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph; another high-end
TimeWalker, which combined two complications: namely Montblanc’s patented
ExoTourbillon with a quick stop-second feature, and the monopusher chronograph
from Montblanc’s Nicolas Rieussec collection.
This
watch focuses on performance and functionality as well as having a very technological,
sporty design and appearance. It is not a discreet watch, to say the least,
with a strong wrist presence yet not a showy watch per se because it has the
substance to back its tough and ‘techy’ looks; without ‘bling’. I will share what the watch tries to achieve
in terms of performance and technique, in terms of its movement, the case and
the dial.
Most
Montblanc TimeWalkers have huge wrist presence. The TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute
Chronograph even more so, maintains this presence.
Firstly,
a summary on the design code of the watch, as illustrated by the picture below.
The
black dial, with dashes of red and white really makes this TimeWalker stand out
on the wrist. The animation from the ExoTourbillon, the skeletonized horns of
the lugs and the lance-shaped hour and minute hands also add a technical look
and feel to the TimeWalker.
The
case is very interesting as it is not the same type of case as a regular
TimeWalker. The TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph has a three-part
case with a unique material mix of titanium, carbon fibre and DLC (Diamond-Like
Carbon). The case is made up of a 44 mm diameter, micro-blasted titanium body
with skeletonized horns combined with a micro-blasted titanium bezel coated
with black DLC and a middle section (case sides) made of carbon fibre.
The
clever combination of titanium and carbon fibre results in a lightweight yet
remarkably resistant case and further accentuates the distinctive TimeWalker sporty
look. A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both surfaces makes
the black dial much easier to read and for PuristS like us, ease of photography
too!
Personally,
as I have handled the watch a few times in Singapore (and I know one lucky
owner who is getting one), I must say one of the key strength and attraction of
this TimeWalker is the innovative mix of materials for the case.
The
tripartite case combines various materials:
1. The titanium bezel is coated with a layer of
scratch-resistant DLC (diamond-like carbon).
2. The
case back is crafted from titanium and complemented by an anti-reflective
sapphire crystal to allow admiration of its movement.
3. Each timepiece has a unique structure of
carbon as titanium sheathed with carbon fibre forms the middle piece of the
case (see the side profile in the picture below)
On
the middle carbon fibre section of the case, Montblanc crafts this sheath as a
seamless, complexly structured cocoon rather than merely gluing a carbon fibre
shell around the titanium “carrure”. This technical information was provided by
Montblanc to explain the process:
Several dozen layers of carbon fibre, with the
fibres in each layer oriented at 90° to those in the preceding stratum, are
fused together with artificial resin at high temperature and a pressure of 10
tons. This produces a compact carbon-fibre block. The case’s round sheath is
stamped perpendicularly to the carbon-fibre layers to form a seamless
“monoblock” which is then tautly stretched over the titanium middle piece
before being clamped into place with two pierced longitudinal titanium brackets
that have a sophisticated brushed surface decoration.
I
will be sharing more about the dial and strap as well as the Montblanc
Manufacture Calibre MB R230 which powers this watch in the next part of my reports.
Stay
tuned for the next part!
Cheers
robin