jrwong23 (aka watchthebin)
[Moderator]
14255
Montblanc 1858 Collection – Part Three
Dear PuristS,
This is the last post of my three-part series on
the Montblanc 1858 collection. It’s probably a good time to take a break from
the novelties released by Montblanc in SIHH 2016, as we recap a beautiful
collection launched in late 2015.
In part three, let’s take a look at the
inspiration behind the beautifully finished Montblanc Villeret monopusher
calibre MB M16.29, which powers the 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter (which I know
some of us have secretly ordered but I won’t disclose who for now 
) , as well as share the other models in the 1858
collection. I believe Montblanc can develop this young collection with more
models in the future, beyond a tachymeter chronograph and manual small seconds,
as this vintage inspired collection has huge potential, in my personal opinion.
) , as well as share the other models in the 1858
collection. I believe Montblanc can develop this young collection with more
models in the future, beyond a tachymeter chronograph and manual small seconds,
as this vintage inspired collection has huge potential, in my personal opinion. Calibre MB M16.29 – inspiration and construction
code
The calibre 16.29 is an in-house developed
monopusher calibre from the Montblanc manufacture in Villeret. The chronograph
movement, like many high end traditional chronographs, features a column wheel
and horizontal disc clutch. It is a huge movement for a wrist watch — the size
of a typical pocket watch movement. The calibre is around 38mm in diameter,
which means the case can only be 43 or 44mm and above. It also has a large
screwed balance wheel with a traditional frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations
per hour.
The modern calibre 16.29 is inspired by the
original Minerva chronograph movement, the calibre 17.29, which was designed by
Minerva in 1929. See below for the comparison between the vintage 17.29 and the
modern 16.29. One key difference between the vintage and modern version is that
the vintage version, though designed and constructed nicely, was not finished
to the level of haute horology finishing standards as Minerva was not a haute
horology maison in the old days (although still highly regarded as a specialist
in chronographs). The modern 16.29 calibre, however, is beautifully hand
finished with several codes of high end finishing such as Cotes de Geneve
patterns and sublime beveling, in line with the haute horology positioning of
Minerva and Montblanc Villeret today.
My personal favorite part of the movement, other
than the huge balance wheel oscillating at a “leisurely” pace (a joy to view),
is the V-shaped Minerva chronograph bridge. This is also utilized in my calibre
13.21, a smaller monopusher chronograph from Montblanc Villeret. When my 1858
Chronograph Tachymeter arrives, I will definitely want to write an owner’s
review to compare the 13.21 vs the 16.29 calibres.
Montblanc Villeret calibre 13.21 and 16.29
One advantage the calibre 16.29 has over the
13.21 is the size of the movement and parts. The larger size allows larger
components such as a larger V-chronograph bridge, larger balance wheel and
Minerva arrowhead. I feel size does matter to enhance the looks of the
movement.
Take a look at the hand-finished V-bridge, a
signature from Montblanc Villeret. The hand finishing work for this chronograph
bridge takes around one week to complete.
The Minerva arrow head is another detail I love.
It is also hand finished and takes around 5 days of work.
The downside is the case to house such a movement has to be big and hence PuristS with small wrist sizes may not welcome a watch case of 44mm.
1858 family in the collection
There are 2 key models in this new 1858
collection, the Manual Small Seconds, using a Unitas movement, as well as the
1858 Chronograph Tachymeter, a watch which has won many PuristS’ hearts in a
short time since its launch.
See below for the first three references launched, along with their published prices from Montblanc.
1. The regular Manual Small Second in steel (strap
or bracelet),
2. The Limited Edition 858 pieces Manual Small
Second in steel with a more vintage patina lume design and
3. The red gold 1858 Chronograph Tacyhmeter,
limited to 100 piecesAll
models in the 1858 collection have the historic Montblanc logo on the dial,
which is very appropriate for a vintage inspired collection.
Very soon after this initial launch, Montblanc
released more models in the 1858 collection. I suspect the theme for watches
recently is “blue is the new black”:
1. A blue dial 1858 Manual Small Second in steel
and
2. the very popular (on PuristSPro) blue dial 1858
Monopusher Chronograph Tachymeter in steel (limited to 100 pieces)
I have not seen the blue dial 1858 Manual Small
Second in the metal yet. If the blue dial is the same blue as the Monopusher
Chronograph Tachymeter, I am sure I will like it too. If any PuristS have live
pictures of the 1858 Manual Small Second in blue dial, please share them here
with us!
Let me know your thoughts on the 1858
collection, now that you have seen it all.
Do you like the blue dial versions more?
Cheers
robin
