Horological Meandering

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Parmigiani Exhibition at Harrods: High-end pieces on display.

Every so often Harrods joins forces with a watch company and for a month or so puts on an exhibition of their finest and greatest watches for everyone to admire. This month (March), Parmigiani have put up some of their finest watches into the vitrene for passers by into the watch and jewelry salon to view. For those not in London, or those who will not get the chance, I was invited along to Harrods early in the morning to view the watches out of the cabinets and photograph them as best I could under the intense spot lighting.



I have noted before that Parmigiani is a brand on the rise. They have vertical integration in their production and ambition to match. Funded by the Sandoz Foundation, with a notable knowledge in the history of haute horologie, Parmigiani watches are a reflection of the new and of the traditional. The range is extensive in design, from the avant-garde and bespoke watchmaking of pieces like the Bugatti Super Sport, to the traditional skeleton minute repeater. Not one for the use of new materials, this is traditional watchmaking with traditional materials, but with designs for the modern wrist.



I photographed four pieces in particular. Anyone who knows me knows that I have a ‘thing’ for time only tourbillon watches, so no surprises that two out of the four are toubillons. The other two are haute horologie at the highest levels of the craft, and I think that it is worth your while, even if you have just a curiosity on Parmigiani (given that they only have a handful of dealerships in the UK) to go along and see the watches if you have the chance.



First of all, the Parmigiani Bugatti Super Sport. The second in the series of ‘drivers’ watches’ that sit on the wrist and where the time is visible when the hand is on the wheel without the driver having to turn the wrist. I have long been an admirer of the Bugatti series watches from Parmigiani. As drivers’ watches that are co-branded with a car or car firm, I have long thought that these watches are unique. At the first instance, the watches resemble an engine block with cam-shafts running the length of the watch. Second, the watches are a re-design on the drivers’ watch that was popular about 70 or 80 years ago, and where the odd example finds itself up for auction sometimes. The Super Sport, made in only a limited number of 30 pieces, is no exception. Taking design cues from the Bugatti car itself, and from Parmigiani’s own lug design, the watch shows itself as the avant-garde drivers watch for the 21st Century. When Pierre-Henri Raphanel accelerated the Bugatti Super Sport through 265mph, a prototype of this watch was strapped to his wrist.

However, the watch is difficult to photograph at the best of conditions, and under the spot lighting at Harrods, almost impossible.







Second, the Parmigiani Pershing Tourbillon. Once again, a limited series watch with only 30 pieces. This version was in rose gold. The watches are the result of a co-branding arrangement between Pershing Yachts and Parmigiani. The design cues for the watches are taken from the yachts and Pershing yachts are noted for their futuristic and innovative designs. The case for the Parmigiani-Pershing series is a synthesis from the designs. The lugs to the case are definitely from Parmigiani, but the case shape and the rotating bezel with the small smoothed triangular ridges create a porthole effect straight from the yachts. I have to confess that I liked this piece a great deal. A skeletonized tourbillon movement, a rose gold case that gives the watch a certain ‘heft’, and the design of the case (that is water resistant to 200 metres) make for a stunning sports tourbillon watch.





Third is a definitive Purist piece: the skeletonised minute repeater. The watch is simple in the sense that this is a time only, chiming watch; spectacular in the sense that the movement is the very definition of complication and complex micro mechanics. As usual, the photos do not present the watch in the detail I would have liked, but it is traditional watchmaking at the highest level.





Fourth, the Kalpa Tourbillon. I took pictures of this one just because I liked it! The watch is unusual in that it has a 30 second tourbillon for the escapement, but the general design of the case, the lugs, and the layout of the dial and movement, make this a very attractive watch, well finished, with enough individuality to make it stand out.





Try to get there if you can. There is a Parmigiani stand inside the watch and jewelry room if you feel so inclined.

Andrew H This message has been edited by MTF on 2011-03-17 04:03:40