foversta
[PuristSPro Moderator]
20814
SIHH 2014: Piaget
Before joining the SIHH, we all knew that one
of the stars of the Salon would be the Altiplano 900P. And I was not
disappointed. The Altiplano 900P has been maybe the most important watch
for Piaget for several years. The movement lay-out or the technical
features are not the only explanations. The most important one is that
the 900P defines a new aesthetic approach which we will find again
during the upcoming years. The 900P embodies a more contemporary style
and for me, it was a great surprise... and a great pleasure to handle
such watch. Moreover, we are fully aware of the artistic
skills of the Piaget Manufacture and the collection of this year gave a
new proof of the expertises of the staff in gems setting, new
decoration techniques...
I propose to browse these novelties whose key pillar is obviously the Altiplano 900P line.
When I entered the Piaget booth, I knew that I was in a very familiar world: ultra-thin movements are one of the specialities of the Manufacture and maybe what best defines Piaget watchmaking.
I propose to browse these novelties whose key pillar is obviously the Altiplano 900P line.
When I entered the Piaget booth, I knew that I was in a very familiar world: ultra-thin movements are one of the specialities of the Manufacture and maybe what best defines Piaget watchmaking.
In the center of
the booth, several screens were displaying an animation which explained
the lay-out of the 900P: A spectacular dramatization of the
movement!
The Altiplano 900P is so important for Piaget that a
full collection will be available in 2014 with two case materials (WG -
PG), two dial colours and the ability to have gems set
versions.
The Altiplano 900P claims to be the thinnest handwind watch in the world with a case-height of 3,65mm. Even if I have still a doubt about this (I'm thinking about Jean Lassale watches whose movement 1200 had a 1,2mm height but I don't remember the case height), the Altiplano is a spectacular watch full of details which optimize the thickness. You will notice that Piaget doesn't communicate about the movement height by itself but only about the case one: it is logical since the case and the movement are interlocked together.
The Altiplano 900P claims to be the thinnest handwind watch in the world with a case-height of 3,65mm. Even if I have still a doubt about this (I'm thinking about Jean Lassale watches whose movement 1200 had a 1,2mm height but I don't remember the case height), the Altiplano is a spectacular watch full of details which optimize the thickness. You will notice that Piaget doesn't communicate about the movement height by itself but only about the case one: it is logical since the case and the movement are interlocked together.
The caseback ready to welcome the movement parts:
Actually, the main plate of the movement is the
caseback which is specifically prepared for this purpose. It is also the
reason why this Altiplano name is the movement reference which powers
it. Watch and movement come together.
Apart the structure of
the caseback, the other main technical feature of the movement which
allowed to reduce the thickness is the front side lay-out. The
off-centered dial allows to free space in order to locate a lot of
movement parts dial side like the regulating organ and the winding
system.
It is quite difficult to see it on pictures but the hands are not the higher parts of the movement: they are located at a lower level than the bridges: it is a way to secure the watch since there is no risk for the hands to be in contact with the glass.
It is quite difficult to see it on pictures but the hands are not the higher parts of the movement: they are located at a lower level than the bridges: it is a way to secure the watch since there is no risk for the hands to be in contact with the glass.
The Altiplano 900P on
the wrist. Despite its rather small size (38mm), the watch has a lot of
presence. It is due to the front-side lay-out which reinforces the
technical and contemporary style of the watch. I will be frank with you:
I love the Altiplano, I had the chance to wear and handle most part of
them but it is the first time I'm so seduced. It is not a classic watch
anymore. It appears to be a true breakthrough piece at the same time
elegant and exciting.
My fav version is the WG
one but I also appreciated the warm colour of PG. The dial colour is
lighter on the watch pictured below and I prefer the darker one which
better highlights, in my humble opinion, the movement parts:
Actually, we can feel
that the development of the micro-rotor movement helped to build the
architecture of the 900P. The micro-rotor obliged Piaget to locate the
parts around the micro-rotor and not on top or below... and I feel the
same with the 900P, the dial replacing the micro-rotor:
The Altiplano 900P
beauty is also supported by flawless finishings with several nice
details like the sunrays on the dial and the bridges. I also like the
small P of the regulating organ.
The watch looks so
delicate, almost fragile at first glance due to its thinness
but thanks to its clever conception (caseback, bridges dial side), I
didn't have this feeling when put on the wrist:
I love the curves of the
bridges... there is also a kind of mirror effect between the ratchet
wheel and the balance wheel:
I was under the charm of
this 900P and I'm sure that this watch will become the flag-bearer of
Piaget for the next years.
The only negative point I felt is that it almost makes us forget the other Altiplano... which is a pity!
As I said previously, the 900P is also available with gems set case and dial:
The only negative point I felt is that it almost makes us forget the other Altiplano... which is a pity!
As I said previously, the 900P is also available with gems set case and dial:
The 900P features a solid caseback:
And with the gems set bezel only:
All the ingenuity of the Piaget team can be sum up on this picture... how such a thin watch can be at the same time so innovative when it comes to its design?
The lugs shape is designed, at least in my point of view, to less push the caseback on the wrist:
We stay within the
Altiplano collection with a new version of the Altiplano 34mm which is
released with a purer dial:
The movement 1200D is now available in a PG context. It is always a pleasure to observe the outstanding gems set work done on this watch. It is like a precious lace...
... without forgetting the ability to observe the winding-rotor dial side:
And on the back!
The handwind Altiplano with the movement 838D is now available with a WG case:
The movement 1200D is now available in a PG context. It is always a pleasure to observe the outstanding gems set work done on this watch. It is like a precious lace...
... without forgetting the ability to observe the winding-rotor dial side:
And on the back!
The handwind Altiplano with the movement 838D is now available with a WG case:
Let's have a look of the other watches of the
collection.
Piaget loves to play with watches which can change, evolve. The Limelight Blooming Rose allows to its happy owner of the watch to choose between 3 case design thanks to rotating parts.
It is a very impressive achievement since the trick remains totally invisible!
One position:
Piaget loves to play with watches which can change, evolve. The Limelight Blooming Rose allows to its happy owner of the watch to choose between 3 case design thanks to rotating parts.
It is a very impressive achievement since the trick remains totally invisible!
One position:
Another one:
Two positions together, I should have needed a third watch to display the 3 positions on the same picture!
Another change of case material with the Emperador
Coussin Tourbillon Automatic now available in
PG.
Like the version presented last year, the dial has been redesigned to improve the legibility. The previous dial was rather busy and confusing.
It is a watch I highly appreciate thanks to the contrast between the constant rotation of the flying tourbillon and the "random" move of the winding rotor:
Like the version presented last year, the dial has been redesigned to improve the legibility. The previous dial was rather busy and confusing.
It is a watch I highly appreciate thanks to the contrast between the constant rotation of the flying tourbillon and the "random" move of the winding rotor:
The power reserve display is located on the caseback:
Despite its large diameter (46,5mm), it is a comfortable watch to wear due to its very short lugs:
2 years after its first presentation, the Gouverneur
line welcomes the WG case.
The Flying Tourbillon with moonphase display was my fav Gouverneur watch and I'm happy to see it back with this WG case and a more discreet outfit:
The Flying Tourbillon with moonphase display was my fav Gouverneur watch and I'm happy to see it back with this WG case and a more discreet outfit:
Once again, Piaget plays with the contrasts: here
with the fast moving tourbillon and the very slow moonphase
display.
Our eyes are attracted by the hypnotizing flying
tourbillon. I can make the same remark than with the Emperador Coussin:
despite its 43mm diameter, the watch can be worn without any problem
thanks to the short lugs. It is always nice to observe the two shapes
(round and oval) which blend together to create this visual
effect.
I propose you a timeless journey with these handwind watches which feature superb maps on their dials:
It is a nice feeling to have several continents on his wrist!
Piaget celebrated the Year of the Horse with this set bezel Altiplano:
I would like to finish the report with a very
surprising watch... could you guess what is the technique used to
decorate this dial? Actually, it is embroidery! The range of
decoration techniques used by the Piaget Manufacture becomes year after
year wider!
Of course, we will have the opportunity to come back
to these watches with more details during the year.
I wish to thank a lot the Piaget staff for the warm welcome.
I wish to thank a lot the Piaget staff for the warm welcome.
Fx