foversta
[PuristSPro Moderator]
20814
SIHH 2012: Piaget
I was very excited while going to my appointment with Piaget Team at the
2012 SIHH for two main reasons. First one was my eagerness to see the
new Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin. Second one to discover the new case
in the collection: the Gouverneur.
Let's start the
report with a very expected watch which was unveiled by Piaget during
the last quarter of previous year: the Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin. You can't find a
more "Piaget" watch than this one. It concentrates all the skills, all
the know-how of the Manufacture de Haute
Horlogerie.
The first surprise coming from this
timepiece is the case diameter: 38mm. Much smaller than the 43mm of the
Automatic Altiplano using the 1208P movement (with small second hand) or
the 1200P one (without).
Second surprise is the skeletonized style
and pattern, very contemporary for our biggest
pleasure.
The result is an unusual watch classic and
original at the same time with a main fature: a movement, the 1200S,
whose micro-rotor animates both sides. The Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin
is a "living" watch far from the feelings brought by other Skeleton
watches.
Finishings are flawless and the use of
colours is very clever in order to preserve the overall legibility. I
like the contrast between the rotor and the bridges and the way the
balance bridge was finished.
With this timepiece, Piaget gets two
strong performances: the thinnest automatic skeleton watch (5,34mm) and
the thinnest automatic skeleton movement
(2,40mm).
Due to the visual impact of the
skeletonized dial, size is perfect and the movement fully occupies the
available space... which was not the case of the Handwind Skeleton and
its 40mm case. So the logical question is: what about releasing an
automatic Altiplano with a smaller diameter than the 43mm case? I
understand perfectly that the current collection is made of 38,40 and
43mm cases which is already a broad range of diameters. But an automatic
alternative with a 38mm case would be
great!
Some close-up
pictures:
We stay in the Black Tie world with the
new case: the Gouverneur. The Gouverneur is a big (43mm) and
thin case with a very slender style.
I wrote so many times here
that I was deeply waiting for a new case especially for the chronograph
complication that I was delighted to discover it. I felt that there was
something missing in Piaget collection. The Altiplano is too specific
and not dedicated to house complications. The Emperador are form
watches. The Polo is maybe too original. Well, there was a hole
somewhere. And of course, as expected with Piaget, the new case is not a
mere case. It has a strong personality like the Emperador Cushion or
the Polo. I consider it as a designer achievement... and I was not
surprised to know that this case is the fruit of the Gueit family...
father and son! The objective of the Gouverneur is to propose a
case which is able to be used for complicated watches and which is more
consensual than the Emperador or Polo without losing the subtle touch
of originality.
The key part in the
Gouverneur case is the bezel. It defines its originality and I would
say... almost its shape. The Gouverneur case is round, no doubt about
it. But the dial is oval. A Gouverneur watch is a very refined timepiece
which mixes these two shapes to create an unusual visual effect. It is
elegant, refined and it creates the right atmosphere to house the 3
"complications" which are offered with this
line.
Piaget had the good idea to propose 3 different
watches with its new case to already build a strong pillar in its
catalogue. Sure that this line will become broader in the future (second
timezone watch would be great even if this complication is already
offered with the Chronograph).
The first watch
is the Automatic with
Date. The big challenge for the designers was to create a
balanced dial due to the use of caliber 800P in a 43mm watch. They
managed to do it thanks to the outer part by the bezel with sunrays
finishings, thanks to subtle lines and a rather complex dial. At the
end... the date window doesn't seem to be lost on the dial which is
actually the case. Good job!
The Gouverneur Automatic Date is the
"entry level" watch of the line but it contains the same care of details
than the other two watches. I especially liked the work on the case and
the finishings of the dial.
Thanks to its
twin-barrel, the 800P movement has 85 hours of power reserve (3 and a
half days). Frequency is 3hz.
My fav of the line is
the Chronograph.
Movement used is 882P which also features a twin-barrel. Power reserve
is 50 hours and its frequency is 4hz. A chronograph movement coming from
Piaget is never a mere one. It has a flyback function and careful... a
second timezone display at 9 o'clock. So there is no permanent second
hand running on the dial. Of course these features are not a big
surprise for the Polo Chronograph fans.
Left sub-dial is a second timezone display and not a
chronograph counter or a permanent second hand:
The short lugs improve the wearability of the
watch:
You will notice that the shape of the pushers are
in harmony with the dial. I really like this care of
details:
A complex dial:
Finishings of the movement are very
faithful to Piaget spirit: nicely made without any baroque effect and a
sober atmosphere compliant with the overall elegancy of the
watch.
Last Gouverneur watch is the Flying Tourbillon with moonphase
display. As always with Piaget, it is a Flying Tourbillon
which allows us to appreciate the beauty of its behaviour. You will
notice the original moonphase display, not very useful I must confess
but it nicely decorates the dial and gives a good
balance.
Movement is handwind 642P with a power reserve of 40
hours and a frequency of 3 hz.
The beauty of the Flying
Tourbillon:
Three Gouverneur watches share in common
the pleasure to wear them thanks to the comfort of the case: the shape
and short size of the lugs improve the wearability despite the large
diameter. I would highly suggess to try them even if you have a small
wrist. They look smaller than their actual
size.
The question is to know is the 43mm were not
too ambitious for an elegant watch. I would answer that the key point
about the Gouverneur case is the way the bezel plays with the shapes. A
smaller case wouldn't have allowed such kind of effect and it would have
been a pity. Moreover, as I said before, the comfort on the wrist was
preserved thanks to the short lugs.
Gouverneur case
is only available in PG or in WG
with set bezels:
The Altiplano Skeleton
Ultra-Thin and the 3 Gouverneur watches were the stars of the show. But
Piaget also unveiled other novelties like these nice and fun set
watches:
The flower dances around the dial!
This watch tells the time like a secret...
The use of stone dials enhances the beauty
of the Altiplano:
The main achievement with this watch is
the flexibility of its bracelet. It is really surprising and
impressive.
Lastly, a logical move was made with
the Polo which
became "All
Black":
Last watch of the report, this two tones Automatic Polo was
also unveiled during the 2012 SIHH after the two-tones complicated Polo
in 2011:
This 2012 collection is a very important
one for Piaget. A new case is never a minor event. I really think that
with the Gouverneur case, Piaget built a strong new pillar which will
support its ambition in the future.
I would like to
thank a lot the Piaget team for the warm welcome, it was a pleasure to
browse with them the
novelties.
Fr.Xavier