Baselworld/SIHH

SIHH 2013: Piaget

 

Further to the Piaget report done by Melvin (and posted here: piaget.watchprosite.com ), I would like to come back to the SIHH 2013 collection to give you my comments and feelings.

I consider this 2013 collection as a solid one, well balanced between complicated watches (the first Minute Repeater, the new version of the Emperador Automatic Tourbillon...), the new Altiplano and of course the proofs of the mastery in gems setting with several impressive precious watches.

In this context, even if the talking piece is the Emperador Coussin Automatic Minute Repeater, the most important watch is the Altiplano Automatic Date since it is a basic piece of the catalogue.

I propose you to browse the key pieces of this collection by starting with a new version of the watch which was the star of the previous year: the Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin.

Do you remember its superb finishings, its intricate movement? Last year it was presented with a WG case and the chromatic atmosphere was quite neutral even if the micro-rotor of the 1200S movement was well emphasized:

The idea was to balance the very busy rendering of the dial with soft colours and the whole design worked very well. Moreover, the 38mm case was perfect avoiding some troubles of the handwind version due to the difference between the case (40mm) and the movement sizes.

The Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-Thin gave a feeling of harmony, balance and was a demonstration of the technical and decorative skills of the Piaget Manufacture.

So, I was wondering if the idea to change the case metal was so good. And when I saw for the first time the new PG version, I made two comments in my head:

- well, I still prefer the WG version thanks its more sober style
- but Piaget managed to create a very different and very appealing watch with this new material.

The objective here is to make the watch warmer and also maybe more refined thanks to the subtle contrasts between the bridges and the hands, the movement parts.

Frankly speaking, I find this PG version more enjoyable: some details are brighter, the details are more visible and the black and PG combo is gorgeous. I even find it more legible! But despite these qualities, I still prefer the WG version for its discretion which gives the wish everyday to spend time to observe the most secret and tiny details. The PG version is more eye-catching and so requires less effort from his owner to be fully appreciated.

WG or PG, they share in common flawless finishings which can be seen on both sides of the movement. Of course, the satin-brushed micro-rotor also changed its colour... but not its material: platinum is used again to improve the winding efficiency. 

Even the barrel (most of the time, the most difficult part to decorate in a skeleton watch) is well-integrated into the overall design:

I can spend hours watching the 1200S movement and the back is even more gorgeous.  The secret signature can be found on the regulating organ of the watch (the "P" over the balance wheel). The shapes of the bridges remain the same and they draw a complex lace which welcomes the wheels and gears:

Still the same feeling of perfect craftsmanship and despite the thin height of the watch, a feeling of depth can be perceived: several layers co-exist.

The world's thinnest automatic skeleton movement strikes again! I'm under the charm of the 1200S and the 38mm case is large enough to house it.

A very convincing version of this beautiful watch:

Let's come back to a more reasonable territory now with the Altiplano Automatic Date.

Without any doubt, this watch is the most important for Piaget this year. When the 1200P/1208P movements were presented, I regretted to see them housed in 43mm diameter cases. Even if the designers did a great job by working on the lugs, the index to balance the feeling of size, I've always thought that such diameter was too large for an Altiplano due to the very high diameter/thickness ratio.

Last year, the skeletonized version of the same movement was presented in a 38mm case and I didn't find it out of context. It is the reason why I started to hope to see an Automatic Altiplano with an intermediate diameter, between the 38mm of the handwind (without second hand) and the 43mm of the Automatic.

It is not a surprise to see in 2013 an automatic Altiplano with a 40mm : it was a deep wish from a lot of Piaget fans! But don't be wrong: creating this watch was not so obvious. It is not a mere automatic Altiplano "reduced". Actually Piaget had to face 3 challenges to be able to unveil it.

The first challenge is the aesthetic one. With a 40mm diameter, the watch doesn't have to be too similar to the current 40mm handwind Altiplano. It is the reason why we have a totally different dial lay-out with a second hand subdial at 4:30, the brand name inside the central layer of the dial and of course, the original location of the date window at 9 o'clock.

The second challenge is the technical one. Despite the addition of the first complication in an Altiplano (the date display and I don't take into account the off-centered second hand subdials), Piaget worked to preserve the ultra-thin height of the movement. The new movement, the 1205P which derives from the 1208P (with second hand) is the thinnest automatic movement with date. The case height (6,36mm) also holds the same record in a context of an automatic watch with date.

The last challenge is the production one. I remember very well the difficulties to find the Altiplano Automatic 43mm on the boutiques displays. They were produced at a very slow rhythm what indicated some production issues. Piaget has explained that these issues were solved. So the Altiplano Automatic Date will have a much higher delivery speed: good news to be followed.

Visually speaking, on the back, there isn't any difference between the 1205P and the 1208P... It is not a problem because I like a lot its lay-out. It is a very nice movement to observe with very discreet and refined finishings.

The Altiplano Automatic Date is available in PG or in WG. I prefer the PG version, much warmer. The WG version is too much in the understatement attitude even if this sober approach will seduce a lot of clients.

The date display is located on the left side of the dial what could be a problem for the people who wear the watch on the left wrist. But I find it well integrated with a very clean and nice window. I think that its size is the most appropriate one.

My only concern about this watch is the length of the hours hand. Due to the presence of the inner circle, I would have preferred to see it a bit longer in order that it brushes it. In other words, I find it too short.

Anyway, despite this issue, this Altiplano Automatic Date is a great watch which easily replaces the 43mm version in my heart. it is more balanced with an appropriate size for a dress watch. The addition of the date display and the off-centered subdial create an original dial lay-out which gives a touch of spice to the watch. And we don't have to forget the discreet beauty of the 1205P movement.

PG version:

And WG one:

The Altiplano Automatic Date is also available with a set bezel.

We stay with the same movement base with the hereafter watches which highlight the mastery of Piaget in gems setting.

The most impressive one is without any doubt the Altiplano Automatic powered by the gem-set 1200D movement.

The work on the movement is stunning due to the narrowness of the bridges. And I don't even speak about the movement height! Despite the addition of the gems, the overall height of the 1200D is 3mm what is an impressive performance.

It is not only a technical performance: the movement is beautiful because the gems draw luminous edges which enhance the lay-out of the 1200D.




To preserve the thin height, the movement was set on the front side but the back is similar to the 1200S... except of course the set bezel.




The Altiplano below was previously presented with a WG case and a different chromatic rendering of the dial.

This version is warmer with a lot of contrats of colours. I like the way the baguette-cut diamonds create the 12 dial cartouches:




The movement is the 1200P:



The following watch is a new version of the Emperador Coussin Automatic Tourbillon which was the star for Piaget of the 2011 SIHH.

The main feature of this watch is its very active and alive dial: when you wear the watch, you can take advantage of the Tourbillon and of the winding micro-rotor. Both animate the dial and if at the beginning, I was not very convinced by the presence of the micro-rotor dial side, I thought that it is a good idea at the end. Having said that, the first version of the dial with its sunrays appears to be a bit "overloaded" even if it has never been a problem for me.

Piaget did a slight redesign of the dial to make it more clearer and to better enjoy the rotor and the Tourbillon behaviours:

This uncluttered style works pretty well but I have to confess that I don't see a clear winner between this version and the previous one.

New dial:

Previous dial:


The 600P is a fascinating movement with its flying Toubillon. It is the thinnest automatic Tourbillon of the industry and I like to see it in the cushion-shaped case.

The power reserve is displayed on the caseback:

It is always the same story with the Emperador Coussin... the case is very large (46,5mm) but hopefully, it remains comfortable thanks to the very short lugs.

The thick bezel reduces the feeling of size which is a good point:

A beautiful and hypnotizing watch. The flying Tourbillon is a true asset because it is fully available to our sight. A flying Tourbillon from Piaget has always provoked me a lot of emotions!

Let's come back to precious watches with this Limelight Gala and its inspiration from the 1960s.

I like the case shape, it has a very dynamic design and features sensual curves at the same time:





I much prefer the version with the classic dial and the roman figures, the watch below with a set dial softens the visual impact of the case curves what is a pity.


Do you remember the Piaget exhibition at the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris? During this event, Piaget unveiled the Couture Précieuse collection inspired by the world of Fashion. Each jewel, each watch remind a very specific couture technique, detail or accessory like a button, a lace, a zip...

The rotating dial of this one is decorated with knots and looks like a precious button:

A very refined and original watch which reinterprets the Dancing Light:

This thin and delicate watch is a perfect symbol of what is a piece of the Couture Précieuse collection. Look at the way the narrow strap extends the case curves:

The chain cuff watch is back directly from the 1970s!

I was impressed by the work done on the bracelet which is surprisingly very flexible:

Two widths are available but I consider that this watch has to be wide!

I would like to finish the report with the talking-piece of the show...

To discover it, I had to enter a corridor which could have been found in a sci-fi movie of the 70s...

Things become clearer now, I'm getting closer to the Emperador Coussin Automatic Minute Repeater:

The watch in the display:

Sadly, I'm not able to tell you more since I couldn't handle it and hear it. But it is a watch full of promises. I like its design, the use of the cushion-shaped case, the movement lay-out and of course, the idea to build this complication with the Piaget principle in mind: to get the thinnest movement of its category. With a 4,8mm height, the objective is achieved!

Obviously, I hope to see it closer and to test the quality of its sound in 2013. So, my wish is to be able to come back to you with a more detailed post about it!

I would like to thank a lot the Piaget team for the warm welcome during the SIHH.

Fr.Xavier