Ulysse Nardin

Salon QP 2012: Ulysse Nardin

 

Ulysse Nardin was one of the main exhibitors at the Salon QP 2012 what made me very happy. Actually, I had the wish to browse again the current collection after my meeting during the Basel Fair. I have to confess that Ulysse Nardin is a brand which attracts me more and more each time I have the chance to handle watches of the collection. There is a very specific style at Ulysse Nardin, an unusual design which combines successfully classicism and originality. I don't even speak about the superb complicated watches like the different PC or the Sonata. Even the simplest watches have refined details: the dial colours, the guillochage...

I propose you to browse some pics to get an overview of the current offer.

Let's start first with two pics of the booth:

The Classico Luna was for me a revelation. When I first saw it at Basel, I was not convinced. It was mainly due to the strange shape of the indexes which made it very "feminine". Since then, the watch was redesigned... and the result is really superb.

What an elegance, what a pure and refined dial...

The simple design hides one of the most complex moonphase displays. The Classico Luna is inspired by the Moonstruck: the moon reflects the light of the sun. The Earth is symbolized by the base of the hands and the Sun by the hour hand. The moon does a full rotation every 12 hours. Its angle of illumination is depicted thanks to this rotation. Obviously, the Moonphase disc changes to display the different phases.


The case diameter is 40mm which is the right size IMHO for this kind of watch to fully enjoy the beauty of the dial:

Movement is the UN-829 (ETA 2892 base) and the module is the same than the Moonphase watch from Ochs and Junior.

The dial, thanks to the contrast between the central part and the peripherical one creates beautiful shades of light:

I love the big figures and the thin and long indexes which bring character:

For me, the Classico Luna is one of the most charming watches of the year.

We stay with the same case diameter (40mm) with this Classico Blue Dial. Sadly, the pictures don't give justice to the beauty of this dial which is actually made of enamel Grand Feu with a subtle guillochage. Blue is THE Ulysse Nardin colour and it is quite rare to see this kind of blue on a simple 3 hands watch.

Movement is based on the ETA 2892:

The shape of the lugs gives you a good idea of the care to details:

Without any transition, we leave the word of elegant and simple watches to enter the universe of the daring and complex timepieces. The Sonata Streamline offers a very futuristic design which is quite coherent with the complications housed by the watch.

I have to admit that this watch is not my cup of tea despite the fact that the Sonata Silicium or the Sonata Cathedral Dual Time are amongst my fav Ulysse Nardin watches.

I find here the design too convoluted and less convincing that with the other Sonata.

Don't get me wrong: the watch is a real joy for any lover of true mechanical masterpieces but I have the feeling that it becomes too  demonstrative here. Moreover the countdown and alarm setting subdials seem to be the eyes of the strange face which look at the owner of the watch. It is a bit disturbing!

But, even if the dial is busy, all the data are very readable: the two subdials are useful and setting the alarm or the countdown is easy. I don't even speak about the date and the second time display. Even if you don't know the watch, you understand very quickly what is displayed on the dial. Believe me, it is not the case of each and every watch!

The mix of colours between the crowns, the pushers and the case is not my cup of tea however:

You will notice the shape of the inertial balance wheel. Hairspring, anchor and escapement wheel are made of silicium. Movement is the UN-67 which has a 4hz frequency and a power reserve of 42 hours.

Case diameter is 44mm which is quite big. But due to the design and to the prominent pushers and crowns, the watch look even bigger. Hopefully, the lugs are a bit hollowed to give a lighter feeling.

This Sonata is impressive and of course remains one of the very few contemporary iconic alarm watches due to the quality of the sound. But my heart stays with the more "classic" (if I can use such strange word for the Sonata!) versions. This one is too much for my taste.

It is almost impossible to do an Ulysse Nardin report without a few lines about the Marine Chronometer!

The Marine Chronometer Manufacture is powered by in-house movement UN-118.

The dial finishings are flawless and it is one of the most beautiful black dial I've ever seen:

The watch is big (case diameter of 45mm!) and I would be very happy to see a similar watch powered by the same movement, without a date display and with a smaller case:

You will recognize the movement thanks to its balance wheel bridge which looks like a bat. Its power reserve is 60 hours. Frequency is 4hz.

The case is made of SS and titanium. This version features hands which can be considered as an intermediary path between the hands of the Marine Chronometer and the more contemporary hands of the Maxi Marine Diver. A very pleasant watch on the wrist even if I don't like the idea to have to cut the rubber strap to adust it at the right size:

My report is over now. I could have taken even more pics but I think that these watches were a good selection, obviously far from being comprehensive of what Ulysse Nardin is currently able to offer in terms of design and of horological contents.

Thanks a lot to the Ulysse Nardin team at the Salon QP for the warm welcome.

Fr.Xavier