WHL
[VC Moderator]
4922
Reviewing Vacheron Constantin in 2012 before SIHH 2013
We're in that "in-between" period when the watches
introduced at SIHH 2012 that excited us are trickling into the retail
network yet collectors tempted by them think about the grass being a
greener still with the novelties about to be introduced at SIHH 2013.
I'm certainly excited to see what will be coming from Vacheron
Constantin and other brands this week, but thought it might be nice to look back
at the novelties from 2012, some of which were held back from SIHH for
release later in the year.
The focus for Vacheron Constantin in 2012 was with the Malte
collection, which found expression in four new models with a new
tonneau case, and celebrates the 100th year of this form in Vacheron
Constantin’s history. The flagship piece of the collection is the Malte
Tourbillon, with exquisite finishing and a cleaner dial design than is
found on previous Malte Tourbillon models:
The Malte 100th anniversary watch is limited to 100 pieces in platinum, with printed dial. It has all the charm of a watch from the Excellence Platine collection, though the dial is not sandblasted platinum:
The Malte Small Seconds is the standard production pieces, and features the caliber 4400, and like the other watches, is qualified for the updated Geneva Seal requirements (for more on this, please read my in-depth review of this watch: vacheron.watchprosite.com
There is also a lady’s model with quartz movement.
If you prefer your tourbillon in a round case, Vacheron Constantin introduced the extraordinary Patrimony Traditionnelle 14 day Tourbillon:
The movement’s extended power reserve is provided by four mainspring barrels, and is derived from the important St Gervais watch from the 250th anniversary collection.
The Overseas line was given a couple of extensions. My favorite is the Chronograph model with blue dial:
I always find it interesting that not everything shown at SIHH will work its way into production: there was a rose gold case Overseas chronograph, also with blue dial, that was attractive, but which ultimately did not make its way into production. Also, retailers were shown an addition to the Historiques collection that has yet to be announced or enter production.
It is also nice to see that the Overseas Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar is available in general production with a rose gold case (there were two special editions, one for VC boutiques in general and one exclusive for the NY Boutique).
The highlight of 2012 for a number of collectors showcases Vacheron Constantin’s in-house talent in their Metiers d’Art workshops. Les Univers Infinis collection features dials with tessellated patterns, highlighting the diamaking arts of guilloche, engraving, enameling, and diamond setting. The Fish is my personal favorite:
Also beautiful and interesting is Dove:
And Shell:
Shown at SIHH, but held for official release latter in the year were was the Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-winding:
This simple two hand watch is 41 mm in diameter and employs the ultrathin automatic winding caliber 1120. I find this to be the most elegant watch in the Traditionnelle family.
2012 was another strong year from Vacheron Constantin, with a number of desirable watches for collectors at every price point the brand competes in. Vacheron Constantin will have to work hard in 2013 to create new watches that will dislodge the pieces that stand at the top of my wish list from 2012.
Bill Lind
Reviewing Vacheron Constantin in 2012 before SIHH 2013
We're in that "in-between" period when the watches introduced at SIHH 2012 that excited us are trickling into the retail network yet collectors tempted by them think about the grass being a greener still with the novelties about to be introduced at SIHH 2...
Thanks for this year-end review, Bill
That is a great refresher on the 2012 novelties. Looking back on the 2012 collection, I think it was overall a stunning collection of peices with some new and very exciting designs. There were pieces I have had to consider very carefully in terms of my pe...
Is the blue VCOC the greek model, or the regular blue?
Thank you for sharing, Bill. Is the pictured blue VCOC the regular blue one (49150) or the 100 pieces ltd. edt. greek one (49152)? The contrast on the sub dials does not look like any of them in the picture. Thanks for sharing, btw! S.
The lighting was not ideal when I took the photo of the Ovesreas
but that is the standard production blue dial model, which is now in the market. The Greek Overseas had a textured dial, which the standard production is flat. Bill
I did not know it has such good contrast in the dial
Thanks, Bill. The contrast was much more available in the picture than I have noticed earlier. Thought I'd missed a version there. Still looking for the correct blue VCOC for me (I guess it's gonna be the Greek). S.
The contrast in reality will be less than in the photo...
it really looks like a different hue of blue.....the Greek model is more black in the subdials. It'll be hard to get both of them side by side for comparison. Bill
Malte is a strong shaped familly
Nice retrospective Bill. I just went for a visit in the brand new Parisian boutique and had time to see the Malte Tourbillon. I thought it was to big and that was missing something but what a watch! The case is splendid and its thickness makes it very ver...