bernard cheong
7182
Mysteries 15/25 Learning from younger generations(rewritten)
From SEIKO website
President. Mr. Hattori was interviewed by several journalists and met many of SEIKO's global business partners. He commented that he is cautiously optimistic about the industry and about SEIKO's prospects. He used the example of Grand Seiko, in which these values are best expressed and which he promised to expand to more markets in the world.
My old SeIko..bought in 1973. Still with me!
If not for the influence of SJX, I would never have had enough wisdom to look more carefully at Grand Seiko. I would not have had the chance to meet Mr Hattori. The younger collector had collected without the burden of making statements and leverage of image. In other words, he bought very wisely with a tighter control of his budget. My visit to Japan was in many ways, a result of talking to SJX more often. I was lucky. Today, he made a post on the AHCI...and I thought it would be very good to repost what I replied here...in context with SEIKO:
If not for the impact of SJX’s Grand Seiko on me, and his influence, I would not have had the chance to visit Seiko. He was young when I first met him. But he bought without the burden of status and he did not have to use the watches to identify himself. With youth, he remains a “purist”. So, I am going to replicate the reply I made for him on the AHCI, because it is relevant to SEIKO.
I collected works of watchmaking from several perspectives simultaneously. As SJX and many of the old timers here know, I was and remain a fan of Lange, and that's how I came onto this website so many years ago. I don't talk much about Lange, Patek, Panerai mainly because i don't think I can contribute any new perspectives these days for these brands and makers.
BUT..when it really comes to the subject of watershed periods of watch designs and the point at which SOME watchmakers break out to becoming less derivative and much less confined to areas of commerce, paying the bills and selling stuff...I am always fascinated.
(1) Watershed period one was 1998. I am quite certain of this. The internet was more matured, and also arrived at a certain point at which a large amount of opinion could be gleaned and thought about if one were reading english and some french. Design and breaking away takes much courage. It also thrives off sampling of opinions.
CNC and wire erosion techniques allowed some degree of variance at affordable costs. 3 dimensional visuals...going into realistic models were not yet available to "independents" at low costs. So, taking that into account, the creation of the Antiqua ( which predates this year), and at the time...the drawing plans of the FREAK, were large ground breaking works.
I lacked the large wallet to simply buy anything i liked. So I selectively and carefully chose these two then. Of course, i liked the watches as pieces of art.
(2) At the same year 1998, and before that...I had a chance to see up close and examine Lange's workshops in Germany...and would later be allowed to see how the old IWC evolve into today's IWC at the German end of Switzerland. I was very impressed with their strict adherence to artisan work, avoiding art without "realising it". In fact, their high code of artisan work made Dufour's work very desirable....and also made Vianney's simple interpretation of simplicity even more desirable...have a look at Steve G's excellent pics up close at both Dufour and Simplicity at ninanet. I had to follow the work of Lange...fortunately, it was then "not as expensive".
(3) 2003 to 2007...the fruits of the widespread sharing of opinions, as we are even now doing, come to bear. Max's work with the Opus series gives rise to several giants, and this will be history. The earlier attempt by Goldpfeil was probably too intense at "one go", to release 7 masters. Max released them over 5 years, and now continues to work with them.
Now, the exposure is different with much more easy acess to CAD and more advanced machines. The beauty of the watch is also it's time in history..what kind of machine and what kind of software made this type of watch possible. At the HIGH END of the artists, I pursue MB&F with my limited budget. If I had more money, I would collect many of the others as well.
(4) 2006 to 2010. The market of collectors have also evolved in several dirctions, with roots in art, and others with a desire to identify themselves with taste and class distinctions. All not to be judged as incorrect, it is very pure human behavior. The art collectors will always collect with a certain behavior. The taste and style and fashion buyers are all of us, and overlaps the art collectors as well. That is what makes watch collecting VERY difficult to analyse as art/wine/hobby. Because the element of who is good, better and best is always in the shadow. It CANNOT be put aside. Like buying a car, sadly, the ego is always one step behind (here at least), in other places, the ego is 3 steps infront.
(5) From my short experience of 30 years...and I say it is short, because I intend to learn for another 30. i must contribute these advisory notes:
(A) Do go out, bite the bullet, and BUY a piece of decent art work. It will HURT at first, because if you are not into art, it sort of feels "empty". But try doing it. And more importantly, buy one with the budget of about 50% of what u would have bought your next watch. During this time, you will "feel" the frustration of why artists and watchmakers sometimes give in to commercialism. And , you have to judge.
(B) Travel to 2 watch factories in person in Switzerland...and then try to visit also the Japanese. I am seriously feeling today, that the Japanese cannot be excluded from ANY collection, even if the buyer is to collect one piece to give perspective to his entire collection. It must be one Grand Seiko. it is not too expensive. AND the reward is perspective.
(C) Although we spend alot of time online reading websites...it is GOOD to meet us collectors in person. Share a meal, do it a few times.
(D) Don't get too political and competitive. Check the ego at the door as much as you can. many people get hurt, and many don't come back for any more.
For what it is worth, supporting the indepedents is almost vital to the industry's growth into a higher form than a "luxury market". Independents today lack the leverage of status when shown to the uninitiated...but maybe not for long. I say give another 36 months...that fast. Brands from both Richemont and Swatch are more than able to keep everyone happy, because most people dont buy to collect...just like most dont collect cars or wine..we use or drink them.
I would say now is another watershed for the independent.it is the time that they evolve into status symbols...for good or bad....this is going to happen If not for the influence of SJX, I would never have had enough wisdom to look more carefully at Grand Seiko.
[edited for Bernard Cheong]