Chopard

Baselworld 2011: The big PuristSPro report --- Chopard

 

Remaining with the ladies’ collection, we also saw the new “Happy Sport Oval”, a very beautiful variant of the well-known Happy Diamond series. Diamonds, set in gold, are freely floating between two sapphire crystals above the dial; this what made the “Happy Diamonds” so famous. Above that, the new Happy Sport Oval has its company logo printed on the top sapphire crystal, achieving a very three-dimensional effect.


Of some more interest for us are, without doubt, the gents’ watches, which start with a new edition of the renown “Quattro”. This watch derives its name from no less than four mainspring barrels, giving this hand-wound watch a power reserve of nine days. Now it not only features a bigger case of 43 mm diameter, but also the new design of hands, that became typical for the modern L.U.C. watch series.


The Quattro shows the power reserve display at 12, and a pointer calendar at 6, combined with the small second. What puzzled me in the beginning, were the two seemingly independent date number registers, printed concentrically around the subdial. However, closer examination revealed one scale to show only the even number, the other one only the odd ones.

Whoever expects more classic watch designs from Chopard, will be surprised at the sight of the so-called “L.U.C. Engine One”, one of last year’s novelties, which got a new version and also a new design this year. The Engine One is generally shaped after a car engine block, and has a handwinding tourbillon and a power reserve indicator. Thus it is a vivid proof of Chopard’s president, Karl Friedrich Scheufele, tight relation with motorsports. This year’s variant of the Engine One features a polished titanium case with a dark coat, that changes it appearance from dark grey to olive-green, depending on the angle of light falling on it.


The wonderful selfwinding chronograph “Chrono One” became a bit more sportive in expression, partially due to the enlarged case of 44mm. If you turn around the watch, another special effect is apparent: The unique shape of the case’s rear part, dubbed “arena” by Chopard, permits a spectacular side view of the beautiful movement. Similar optical perspectives, achieved by varying shapes of cases and crystals, could be found at numerous booths at the fair.


My personal favourite of this year, however, is the breathtakingly beautiful “L.U.C. XP Tonneau”. Being one of the very few barrel-shaped watches with a shaped selfwinding movement, it is very decently designed - a class of its own.


Since last year, the entrance ticket to the L.U.C. series is the model 1937. Offered in steel cases only, it was deliberately designed very elegantly, to be a “fine watch”, that is a good company to its owner. The model 1937 (42 mm diameter) is powered by the inhouse selfwinding cal. L.U.C. 1.010 movement. Being produced by Chopard's subsidiary, Fleurier Ebauches. This technically conventional movement has a power reserve of 60 hours, and a frequency of 28,800 A/h. Compared to Chopard’s standards, it is built in larger numbers and shall become the base of sportive and ladies' series.


The cal. 1.010 permits Chopard to equip watches outside the very high-class L.U.C. series with inhouse selfwinding movements, thus assuring its independence in the business. The movement is attractive, and receives its decorative finish by hand. The two model 1937 versions currently available have a silver dial with applied Roman numerals, and a white lacquered dial with printed Roman numerals.


While launched last year already, this remarkable watch was never officially presented to the press, which is why I am happy to show it here: the "L.U.C. Tourbillon Tech Twist" with silicon escapement and a carbon fibre case. It is limited to 25 pieces only, and absolutely gorgeous with its eight days handwinding movement.


A very special role is played this year by the highly exclusive Urushi watches: Their dials show traditional Japanese themes, executed in very old lacquer techniques: a peacock, a tiger in his bamboo forest, and a jungle scene. Originally, these three singular pieces were destined for the Japanese market only. However, shortly before the Basel fair, Japan was struck by a terrible three-fold catastrophe of a massive earthquake, tsunami and the sequent nuclear accident. For that reason, the management of Chopard decided to offer the Urushi watches internationally, and to donate the profit to rebuilding the stricken country.


Finally, the sports series “Mille Miglia”, too, features a new model, the split-second chronograph “Superfast Split Second”. Equipped with a modified Valjoux 7750, the massive (diameter: 45mm, height: 15.4 mm) watch’s design quotes various stylistic elements and instruments of classic cars. The pushers and the crown are rubber-coated. Unfortunately, the chronograph second hands show a very visible stutter when running, which is typical for the base movement used. The “Superfast” is limited to 1,000 pieces.


Chopard’s concentration on the segment of ladies’ timepieces is most certainly a very important step towards strengthening the presence of its good name in this target group. That the gift basket for us men was not so full this year can be coped with - we still are busy playing with last year’s toys ...


This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2011-04-20 00:42:41 This message has been edited by Kong on 2011-05-22 10:09:53