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MTF
[PuristS]
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A thin legacy – PIAGET Cal.12P and its Successor (Part 2) SIHH 2010

A thin legacy  – PIAGET Calibre 12P and its Successor (Part 2)

Two World Records in one watch

For Piaget, 2010 A.D. will represent a tribute to their rich watchmaking heritage as well as a horological leap towards the future. To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the introduction of its legendary world’s thinnest mechanical self-winding movement  (at that time); Calibre 12P in 1960, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget is presenting Calibre 1208P. This new mechanism once again is the thinnest self-winding movement currently on the market, at 2.35 mm. A first record.  That's only the thickness of 2 compact discs!

For its debut on the watchmaking stage, Calibre 1208P will power the Altiplano Automatic watch again. Featuring a new case size (43 mm diameter), the latest Altiplano model is just 5.25 mm thick, making it the thinnest watch in its category. A second record. That's the thickness of a plastic CD case.   

 Piaget Altiplano 43 mm “Anniversary Edition” – Calibre 1200P

Piaget Altiplano 43 mm Anniversary

This timepiece was conceived from a desire to celebrate a 50th anniversary by setting a new record for flatness and combining it with exceptional reliability. The expertise acquired by the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget in ultra-thin movements enabled it to implement technical solutions that push micro-mechanical limits. For example, whilst traditional gear trains usually measure 0.2 mm, those of the 1200P are just 0.12 mm thick, which is scarcely more than a hair’s breadth (0.08 mm). The thickness of various movement parts was reduced to bare essentials, while guaranteeing impeccable reliability. The automatic winding mechanism represented one of the trickiest problems to overcome. This set of parts calls for a finite volume that tends to make a movement significantly thicker. Like the 12P, the solution consisted of integrating it within the 1200P, using the principle of an off-centred oscillating weight (micro-rotor). This oscillating weight, engraved with the Piaget coat-of-arms, is crafted in platinum. Platinum gives it a weight and inertia ratio to guarantee excellent winding force.

The result is a movement that is not only the thinnest in its category currently on the market (2.35 mm), but it also has a balance with low inertia (2.90 mg.cm2), a frequency of 21,600vph and an approximately 40-hour power reserve. Tenaciously holding on to its tradition of extreme quality, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget made a point of honour in treating the new ultra-thin calibre to exceptional finishing: in addition to the bevelled bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève, the circular-grained mainplate, the satin-brushed steel parts and the blued screws, the 1200P also features circular sun-ray brushed wheels, as well as a dedicated index assembly bearing the “P” for Piaget as a 'secret signature'.

This large movement –13 ¼ lignes (29.9 mm diameter) – driving the hour and minute functions was designed to power a large-size ultra-thin watch. Altiplano, an iconic model among ultra-thin watches, was the natural choice. Engraved with the inscription “1200P”, the case was designed early in the development process so as to provide the perfect receptacle for the movement, each being specifically made for the other. The glass is deliberately flat rather than convex in order to accentuate the slimness of the case. The result is an extremely refined watch creation with tapering lugs and a hand guilloché dial beautifully highlighted by an extremely slender bezel.

The various dial levels – a clever means of further reducing the thickness of the watch while limiting hand-setting heights – and the alternation of simple and double hour-markers, along with the word “automatic” reminiscent of Piaget’s historical pieces and the discreet inscription signalling that this is an anniversary model, all contribute to the pure style and perfect balance of the overall effect.

Altiplano 43 mm automatic 1208P movement compared with Altiplano 40 mm manual 430P movement

Altiplano 43 mm automatic 1208P movement compared with Altiplano 40 mm manual 430P movement

You can see that the new watch has a thinner rehaut inner bezel and distance between dial and watchglass. The new watch hands are set at different heights to "buy" space.

Despite its extreme flatness, the case in 18-carat pink gold matched with a midnight blue dial, or in 18-carat white gold framing a black dial, is equipped with a transparent caseback enabling one to admire the movement and the crown bearing the “P” for Piaget. A pin buckle reflecting the aesthetic of the bezel has been specially created for this watch.

The new pin buckle (right) is exclusive to the new Altiplano 43 mm watch compared with the old model (left).

Conclusion:   Less is More. 

Personally, I like...nay, lust... for this watch in white gold and black dial (Ref. G0A35133).

It is the epitome of PIAGET.  Not having a seconds hand, there is nothing to detract from the symmetry, elegance and, dare I say, Purity of Watchmaking (PoW). As a moderator of the PIAGET Forum, I am often asked, Who? When? What? and Why? Piaget.  If I had this watch, my answer would be to pull up my shirtsleeve cuff and let the watch speak for the Manufacture.  Also available in rose gold and blue dial (Ref. G0A35132).  Each of these references is available in a limited series of just 235, and the individual number is engraved on the oscillating weight of each movement.

.

Wish list:
Theoretically, the 1200P movement could be housed in a 40 mm diameter case and I wish they had. When I saw the protoypes in 2009, I cajoled, pleaded and even threatened the Collection manager to issue a 40 mm case watch with 1200P movement. He didn't say "Oui".....but neither did he say "Non"!  Rather like Ms Mona Lisa, his enigmatic smile only served to make me yearn for 2011...2012...2013?  

Piaget Altiplano 43 mm – Calibre 1208P

In fairness, I have to also report on the 2nd best watch at the SIHH 2010 below:

Piaget Altiplano 43 mm – Calibre 1208P

In parallel with the Altiplano 43 mm anniversary edition equipped with Calibre 1200P, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget presents the Altiplano 43 mm Calibre 1208P model. Designed to become part of the regular collection, this version has also been treated to the same meticulous finishing of both its movement and its exterior. Tapering lugs, a slender bezel, a pure dial, a calibre finished according to the aesthetic signature codes of the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget: the entire range of features translates the understated elegance that is the keynote of this ultra-thin timepiece. The oscillating weight is crafted from 22-carat gold, while a small seconds display at 4 o’clock enlivens the dial and makes the record 2.35 mm slimness of Calibre 1208P even more remarkable. 

Other brands (no names ) remove their base movement's seconds hand assembly to lower the height but still do not come close to this Piaget ultra-flat record.

Like its Anniversary Limited Edition brethren, the Altiplano 43 mm watch equipped with the new Calibre 1208P is setting two new records: that of the thinnest mechanical self-winding movement on the market at 2.35 mm; and that of the thinnest watch in its category, measuring a mere 5.25 mm.

In a return to traditional haute horlogerie, and contrary to the current frantic race toward ever more complicated models, Piaget Altiplano 43 mm – Calibre 1208P displays only essentials: hours, minutes and small seconds subdial.

This timepiece represents the result of a wish to celebrate a landmark anniversary by setting a new record for slimness and combining it with exceptional reliability. With this in mind, the expertise acquired by the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget in developing ultra-thin movements has enabled it to implement technical solutions consistently pushing micromechanical limits. By way of example, whereas the gear trains of a classic movement usually measure around 0.2 mm, those of the 1208P are just 0.12 mm thick, which is scarcely more than a hair’s breadth.

Generally speaking, the thickness of the various movement parts has been reduced to bare essentials. Among them, the self-winding mechanism represented one of the trickiest problems to overcome. This set of parts calls for a certain volume and tends to make a movement significantly thicker. Like the 12P, the solution for the 1208P consisted in using the principle of an off-centred oscillating weight, also known as a micro-rotor. The 22-carat gold of this oscillating weight engraved with the Piaget coat-of-arms gives it a weight and inertia guaranteeing excellent winding force. The result is a movement that is not only the thinnest in its category currently on the market (2.35 mm), but also has a balance with low inertia (2.90 mg.cm2), a frequency of 21,600 vph and an approximately 40-hour power reserve. Loyal to its tradition of fine craftsmanship, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget has made a point of honour of treating its new ultra-thin calibre to exceptional finishing: in addition to the bevelled bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève and blued screws, the 1208P also features circular satin-brushed wheels as well as a dedicated index-assembly bearing the P for Piaget like a secret signature.

This large movement – measuring 13 ¼ lignes, meaning 29.9 mm in diameter – driving hour, minute and small seconds functions, was of course intended to equip a large-size ultra-thin watch. Altiplano, an iconic model among ultra-thin watches in general and particularly within the range produced by the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget, was thus a natural choice. The case was designed well upstream in the development process – a rare phenomenon in the watch industry – so as to provide the perfect receptacle for the movement, since they were specifically made for each other. The result is an extremely refined watch creation with tapering lugs and a layered dial beautifully highlighted by an extremely slender bezel. The small seconds at 4 o’clock, the various dial levels – a clever means of further reducing the thickness of the watch while limiting hand-setting heights – and the alternation of simple and double hour-markers, along with the word “automatic” reminiscent of Piaget’s historical pieces: all these refined elements contribute to the pure style and perfect balance of this outstanding model. Despite its extreme slenderness, the case in 18-carat pink (Ref. G0A35131) or white gold (Ref. G0A35130) is equipped with a sapphire case-back enabling one to admire the movement and the crown bearing the P for Piaget.

With the Piaget Altiplano 43 mm watch equipped with Calibre 1208P, the Manufacture Piaget sets a new record: that of the thinnest mechanical self-winding watch, at just 5.25 mm. Although there is a nod to their heritage, it is a modern-day, soon-to-be classic watch, expressing Piaget’s ascendancy in the stratosphere of ultra-thin expertise.

More after the start of SIHH 2010 in Geneva............

Regards,
MTF

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A thin legacy – PIAGET Calibre 12P and its Successor (Part 1) - click here