Zenith Star «Fleur Bleue» BaselWorld 2015
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Zenith Star «Fleur Bleue» BaselWorld 2015

By Ornatus-Mundi · May 7, 2015 · 2 replies
Ornatus-Mundi
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Ornatus-Mundi's review of the Zenith Star «Fleur Bleue» highlights a captivating ladies' timepiece from BaselWorld 2015, showcasing Zenith's Métier d'Arts expertise. This article focuses on the exquisite basse-taille enamelled dial and diamond accents, offering a detailed look at a watch that masterfully combines artistic decoration with horological craftsmanship.

Almost as if they wanted to hide it, Zenith presented a mesmerising series of three ladies watches extensively decorated in the façon of the 'Métier d'Arts'. While two are still under embargo, here is the first of them, the Zenith Star «Fleur Bleue» :




It is a prime example of Zenith's recently introduced Star series of ladies' timepieces, all of them presented in basically the same cushion-shaped 33mm case:




What makes the Star «Fleur Bleue» stand out of the already fine remainder of the collection is its execution with core elements of the Métier d'Arts inspired beauty: Here, a superbly handcrafted gold dial sporting a , enamelled in translucent blue using a basse-taille technique (as far as I could identify):




Reference Wikipedia:
"Basse-taille (bahss-tah-ee) is an enamelling technique in which the artist creates a low-relief pattern in metal, usually silver or gold, by engraving or chasing. The entire pattern is created in such a way that its highest point is lower than the surrounding metal. A translucent enamel is then applied to the metal, allowing light to reflect from the relief and creating an artistic effect. It was used in the late Middle Ages, and then again in the 17th century."

The effect is spectacular:





..., particularly, if further adorned with 0.16 cts on bezel and 0.1 cts on dial, respectively.




Certainly, a counter-weight is needed. Here it is:






More weight (pun intended) for us has the backside. Sure, there a jewels as well... Nice to see the Elite so widely used (these days):




With the help of a 'competent' person I could shoot a couple of wrist-themed impressions...












The counter-weight in full force ;-)




So, the bottom-line is the I think Zenith made excellent use of combining the different artistic and watchmaking disciplines in a mutually fertilising fashion. It is a decidedly female piece which lives of its pointed application of restraint. 

What do I mean with this? Well, look at the 'snow flakes' (i.e. diamonds) beneath the flower's petals. they just accentuate the marvellous enamelling work and do not compete for the center stage. Same for the chiselling of the flower's infructescence: Just enough to make a statement, but not too much to overshadow the rest.





It is this balance which makes the watch a winner for me: a well-composed picture. And it does not hurt that serious watchmaking is its (much appreciated) flip-side (again, an intended pun...)!

I hope you liked my short presentation.

Thanks for reading,
Magnus 


 
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-05-07 13:24:43

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The Discussion
JM
jmpTT
May 8, 2015

No idea on the marketability for this type of womens watch, but it is interesting from my perspective. The combination of a steel case, an intricate and beautifully enamelled dial and a good movement is very appealing from a collector's perspective, but I'm not sure of how many female collectors are out there. Would be interesting to have more female perspectives on this.

OR
Ornatus-Mundi
May 10, 2015

my girl is quite taken by it, if this is of any value... Indeed, we would need some female opinions here. Thanks, Magnus

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