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Ornatus-Mundi shares a Financial Times article detailing Zenith's controversial decision to outsource movements, specifically the new Calibre 3000 (Sellita SW300). This post sparks a crucial debate among collectors about the implications of a manufacture brand forsaking pure in-house production for growth and broader market appeal. The discussion provides a valuable historical snapshot of a pivotal moment in Zenith's strategy.
The Patek Philippe World Time reference 2523, launched in 1953, is distinguished by its innovative two-crown system. One crown serves for winding the watch, while the second, positioned at 9 o’clock, controls the city disc. This design marked a significant development in the functionality and user experience of world time complications for the brand.
The reference 2523 was offered in two primary versions. The initial ref. 2523 featured larger lugs that extended above the bezel, with a case diameter of 35.5 mm. A subsequent variant, ref. 2523/1, presented a slightly larger diameter of 36 mm and thinner lugs that were integrated without extending above the bezel. Both versions were powered by the caliber 12-400 HU, which incorporated the world time module developed by Louis Cottier.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in Patek Philippe's historical advancements in complicated watchmaking, particularly the evolution of its World Time series. The distinct design differences between the 2523 and 2523/1, especially regarding lug integration and case dimensions, provide specific points of interest for enthusiasts tracking the model's development and variations.
Very interesting read; thank you for sharing! I think the last line is particularly interesting; the suggestion that we may begin to see more brands stepping 'down' to sourced movements, in order to evolve to face the new economic realities of the industry. I think this will be a very interesting period in the industry to watch, and has probably been some time in the making. Personally, I find it sad that so many enthusiasts and collectors place such an emphasis on in-house production, almost as
and like you I can understand why brands like to use it to sell their watches and distinguish themselves - its so easy to 'understand'... However, a watch is much more than a movement, and the other qualities (and those of the brand) are much more difficult to get. Perhaps decisions like this of Zenith lend to a broader appreciation of a timepiece's qualities? Best, Magnus
As I see it, there are at present only two high end industrial watch companies (Swatch Group and Rolex). The rest are more or less boutique marketing houses, especially LMVH. Why Zenith can't sell more than 30'000 watches a year is a mystery. Do they get no support from LMVH? LMVHs specialty is marketing and Zenith has every charactoristic that should allow them to tell a good story to grab those sales. What Mme North is saying is that Zenith can niether make nor sell high end watches in big qua
I think you put a but much emphasis on the movement (as I said fully understandable as an accomplished watchmaker ,-)). Just because Zenith resorts to outsourced movements does not meant that the watches are on the same level as a Tissot (which besides does not use Sellita...). Having said that, you have a valid point re: volume compared to others. But those other two are special cases themselves! Best, Magnus
I entirely understand why, if they want to expand the brand, they need to have a lower entry-price and to achieve that, they must forgo the in-house movements. What I am less clear on is the need to expand the brand. They're not a small company, or even part of a small conglomerate like they once were. LVMH is a massive behemoth. Do they really need every one of their brands to cover every market space on every continent? As Zenith already has enormous value to the company for movements for the
I would risk the statement that RD is not exactly a success story either. So, if according to Ms North 'purists' (read: collectors) are not the main target audience I guess it would be difficult to market the advantages of a Zenith movement in a Dior, TAG etc.. Except you try hard, and I have the feeling they think they did that with insufficient success. Best, Magnus
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