Foversta provides a hands-on review of the Zenith Limited Edition Suarez, a 20-piece chronograph inspired by vintage aesthetics. This article explores how Zenith balanced a smaller movement within a larger case by drawing on historical dial designs, offering a unique perspective on modern limited editions that nod to the past.
When I was in Barcelona in 2013, my eyes were attracted by a very nice Zenith watch in the shop window of one of the most famous spanish dealer, Suarez. It was a contemporary Zenith chronograph with an original dial inspired by the past. A few days ago I was in Madrid so I decided this time to not miss the opportunity to see and to handle this watch since Suarez has also several points of sale in the capital of Spain. I didn't regret the time I spent with this watch since it is, in my point of view, one of the nicest limited editions of the last years.
Actually, this Zenith Limited Edition Suarez (20 pieces) is based on the Captain Chronograph. It is the reason why it shares several details with the watch of the permanent collection:
- its 42mm stainless-steel case diameter
- the two main hands and the hands of the sub-dials
- the pushers
But very quickly, a lot of differences become visible. I will obviously come back later about the dial but do you notice the shape of the second hand of the chronograph? Do you see the onion-shaped crown? Even the movement is not the same that we find inside the Captain Chronograph case. The Zenith Limited Edition Suarez is powered by the El Primero 4002 (while the Captain Chronograph uses the 400 B) which animates watches like the Pilot Chronograph, in other words, chronographs without a counter of the hours. The movement is visible thanks to see-through caseback. Don't expect any surprise here when it comes to the movement decoration: there isn't any, the watch stricly follows Zenith standards. Obviously, its performances remain classic in the El Primero context with a 5hz frequency and a power reserve of around 50 hours.
The most successful element which explains why this Limited Edition is so appealing is without any doubt the dial. Once again, the designers were facing the challenge to create a balanced dial with a 30mm movement inside a 42mm case. They managed to find this balance thanks to the "vintage" inspiration of the dial. It is not by coincidence if the choice was made to find the inspiration for the dial in a watch from, in my point of view, the 40s. This Limited Edition was created to celebrate the 70th anniversary of Joyeria Suarez which was founded in 1943 not in Madrid... but in Bilbao. Moreover, the watch celebrates the long partnership between Zenith and the dealer.
This dial is really beautiful. I appreciate a lot the peripheral scale which improves the readility, the shape and the colours of the figures which make me think in a way about the figures of the Pilot Type 20 GMT 1903 without the aging process but with a nice "patina" which matches the luminescent . But the main part of the character of the dial comes from the mix of the two snail scales which decorate it, make it very intruiging and creates the "vintage" atmosphere. The first scale, the ochre one, is a classic tachymeter. But honestly, I don't know what is exactly the second one in red with graduations between 10 and 40. All together, the dial looks very busy but it has a strong asset: the two subdials don't look too close to the center what they are though. The readability of the two subdials and primarily of the minutes counter remains acceptable.
The background of the dial uses a silver/grey grained colour which works very well with the scales and the figures. When I observed the whole of the dial, I was convinced by its coherence and its charm even it is not the purest around. But the big question is to know where the knot comes from. At the very beginning, I thought it was a sailing knot. I was totally wrong because at Suarez they explained me that the watch was inspired by a Zenith watch dedicated to an italian firemen corps. Anyway, the presence of this knot on the dial is quite original and it also contributes to the character of the dial.
On the wrist, there is no big surprise: I find again the same comfort than with the Captain Chronograph. The size of the crown makes its handling easier and as I wrote before, the readability of the chronograph data is decent despite the complexity of the dial. The biggest pleasure brought by this watch comes from the atmosphere it creates and the feeling to have an old chronograph on the wrist. It is the reason why this Limited Edition makes me think about a Limited Edition of a Zenith Class El Primero with a PG case released in the 90s which was displaying a telemeter and a tachymeter scales even if the two watches are not very similar.
Thanks to the staff of the Suarez boutique in Madrid for the warm welcome.
Pros:
+ the charm of the watch due to its "vintage" atmosphere
+ the shape of the crown
+ the dial finishings
+ the reliability of the El Primero movement
Cons:
- the dial could be perceived as quite confusing
- the movement is a bit too small for the case
Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by foversta on 2014-05-03 10:31:16 About the Zenith Pilot Ref. Type20GMT1903
The Zenith Pilot Type 20 GMT 1903, reference Type20GMT1903, is a notable edition within the brand's Pilot collection, distinguished by its tribute to the Wright brothers. This specific reference integrates a GMT function, enhancing its utility for travelers and collectors who appreciate multi-time zone displays. It represents a contemporary interpretation of historical aviation timepieces, aligning with Zenith's long-standing association with early flight endeavors.
The watch features a substantial case crafted from a specific material, housing a self-winding mechanical movement. The large diameter and robust construction are characteristic of pilot's watches, ensuring legibility and presence on the wrist. A domed sapphire crystal protects the dial, providing clarity and scratch resistance, while the movement offers a considerable power reserve, suitable for extended wear without frequent winding.
This reference appeals to collectors interested in aviation-inspired watches and those who value Zenith's historical contributions to chronometry and flight instrumentation. Its limited production status often contributes to its desirability on the secondary market. The combination of a GMT complication with the distinctive Pilot Type 20 aesthetic makes it a unique offering within the broader Zenith catalog, appealing to enthusiasts seeking a blend of historical homage and practical functionality.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Elite 693
- Case
- Bronze
- Diameter
- 48mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
