foversta reviews the Zenith Elite Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase, a timepiece that marked Zenith's renewed focus on women's watches in 2011. He delves into its design, the intriguing choice of a moonphase complication without a date display, and the technical merits of the Elite 692 caliber. This article provides a comprehensive look at a watch that prioritizes aesthetic pleasure over pure utility.
The Elite Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase was presented by Zenith in 2011, symbolizing the return of the ambition of the brand toward women customers. Available in 14 (if I'm not wrong!) different versions, it belongs to the rare category of watches that offer a moonphases indicator without any date display. Actually, I have always been fascinated by these timepieces that replace a useful complication (date) by a complication for which it is difficult to perceive its useful interest an a daily basis. But we don't have to forget that a watch is not just an useful object. It is primarily a source of pleasure and emotions and the Elite Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase is in this sense a real success.
The greatest strength of this Zenith watch is its balance and harmonious proportions. Housed in 33mm case, the watch appears, however, bigger than it is actually thanks to the generous dial opening due to the very thin bezel. But above all, the dial brings some surprises due to its presentation and the quality of its finishes.
If it is fully made of classic elements (moonphases display, second hand subdial, dauphine hands, central area featuring a guillochage, roman numerals), it does yet have a little hint of originality. Two factors contribute to this:
- its lay-out with separated second hand and moonphases displays what makes the dial asymmetrical
- the joint presence of two types of guillochage
The asymmetry of the dial, caused by the presence of the second hand at 9 o'clock is a great idea. It brings originality and energy without altering the classicism of the watch. Furthermore, the readability is improved since the second hand is not moving over the moonphases disc. The latter is enhanced by both the beautiful blue sky that enlivens the dial and the sunburst guilloche of the lower part of the subdial. I love this type of guillochage that blends perfectly with the stars and creates a contrast with the "clou de Paris" type of guillochage of the central area.
The thin and long Roman numerals complement the dial design and contribute to the elegant side of the whole. You can note that Zenith chose not to draw any minute scale on the dial. This decision makes the dial purer even if undoubtedly it reduces the accurate legibility of the minutes. Finally, the dauphine hands tell the time with great elegance.
The position of the two subdials close to the bezel gives the proof that the size of the movement matches the case one. I have often criticized Zenith, especially with the El Primero caliber, when they have used cases too large for the diameter of the movement. In the specific case of the Elite Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase, this problem does not exist because the proper diameter of the caliber that powers the watch, the Elite 692 is 25,6mm, large enough for a 33mm case. This caliber is visible through the see-through caseback and it offers a pretty sight. Of course, its finishes are simple if not austere and I would have liked to see some more gratifying details such as a decorated winding mass. But at least, its size makes it coherent with the case and this detail makes me happy. And we don't have to forget that the main asset of this movement remains its performance. Reliable and with excellent winding efficiency, it is the perfect companion for this watch with a 4hz frequency and a power reserve of fifty hours.
Taking into account its balance and its perceived size larger than it is actually, the steel case and silver dial version as shown on the pictures, could be also a nice watch for a male wrist. In my point of view, I also consider this piece as a mixed watch and I even tend to prefer it to its pure male alter-ego, the Elite Moonphase, which incorporates a large date in a 40mm case ... too big for the movement. And sadly this unbalance is perceptible dial side.
But I don't lose sight of its primary vocation as a ladies' watch! I had the chance to ask to Macha, co-founder of the fashion and lifestyle blog What-to-Where, to give me her opinion about the Elite Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase which is her daily watch. She enjoys its comfort on the wrist and its presence which is stronger than its size suggests. I must admit that the watch suits her perfectly and that's the key point of the moonphases display complication that brings, beyond the dial decoration, a touch of welcome poetry. Finally, because of its controlled thickness (less than 9mm), the Elite Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase provides a relatively slender design ideal for a lady's wrist.
Classic and original at the same time, the Elite Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase gives the proof to be a very convincing watch with its overall consistency, its pretty dial and its solid watchmaking content. It is in my opinion one of the greatest successes of recent years from Zenith. 4 years after its release, this watch has managed to keep all its charm and elegance.
A big thank to Macha for her availability during her visit in Paris.
Pros:
+ the dial lay-out
+ the consistency of the watch highlighted by the diameter of the movement which matches the case
+ the poetic touches provided by the moonphases display
+ the presence on the wrist despite the contained size
Cons:
+ the somewhat austere finishes of the movement
This message has been edited by foversta on 2015-12-09 14:38:55 
