Zenith El Primero Skeleton Ceramic Review

Ornatus-Mundi's hands-on pictoriview of the Zenith El Primero Skeleton Ceramic offers an in-depth look at how Zenith modernized its iconic movement. This article provides valuable insights into the design philosophy behind exposing the El Primero's structural qualities, making a 2016 release relevant for understanding Zenith's ongoing design evolution.

The manufacture Zenith has today unveiled their newest timepiece, the Zenith El Primero Skeleton Ceramic , a modernist, contemporary watch which emphasies the structural qualities that lie deeply embedded in the legendary El Primero automatic chronograph movement:



What Zenith has done with this watch, or more precisely with the legendary El Primero movement that drives it, is what I consider a most convincing attempt at modernisation of the existing.

 'Most convincing' because Zenith managed to highlight those details which convey an inner structure to the movement, and beautifully exposed them to the observer:

An 'airport approach' shot hints best at what makes up this offering:



Certainly, the watch may look familiar to quite a number amongst us - no wonder, as Zenith unveiled its basics in the third Rolling Stones Special Edition watch (a remarkable strategy, methinks, to present a co-branding piece weeks before its underlying serial model is shown...), which is essentially the same, save for some specific human anatomic details that your otorhinolaryngologist would be delighted about, and a calfskin strap... more here and a live shot by FX here !)

Nevertheless, this is the first time the new Skeleton is shown 'in the metal' (well, not really). Knowing the impatient longing of several Purists (myself included) for a 'purer' version, I felt compelled to put together a hand-on pictoriview on this piece.

Now, first detail I like is the Zenith logo vapour-applied on the dial side of the sapphire crystal, thus floating atop the stark scenery below:



The dial-side of the El Primero movement shows a simply yet immensely attractive finishing composed of matte anthacrite surfaces confined by raised and brushed edges, essentially partitioning the dial area into several (functional) units.

Applied growth-like sports arenas from the mechanics below:



The outer dark bezel compartment offers the neccessary soothing antipole, through presenting few repeating bold elements. Note the opened-up date mechanism at 12 o'clock:



I think its really rewarding getting closer to appreciate the details. note how finely the briushed edges encapsulate the functional elements, and how nicely the three different finishing techniques: brushing, mattening and polishing, complement each other, both in their aesthetic qualities but also in their use of structure:





Above, the shot focuses on the date display as well.

I mentioned the rather restained bezel already, but I'd like you all to take a second look. The bezel is also home to the hour indices, executed as the typical sharp multi-facetted elements (did you note that the subdials cut into each other, but still can be ready at any measured time?).



It is exactly this promounced shape which makes them 'watch the scene' almost as guards. Their shape and execution is full of detail which goes unnoticed if one is not pointed to it. Clearly, someone put much love into perfecting these!



The remainder of the case is typical for the Manufacture: 45mm ceramic, a material which is increasingly used by the brand, and offers light weight combined with pleasant haptics.



Movement-wise, we note the venerable El Primero Cal. 400B, but with a special, monochrome treatment, which I find particularly attractive ...



... as the rubies stand out clearly:



Finally, the Skeleton Ceramic is hold on its place with a rubber strap accenturated with a carbon inlay (a technique the is used by Zenith more recently, see El Primero Range Rover, NightVision, Lightweight, ...). Mentioning this, brings me almost automatically to....wristshots:



I'll let the images speak for themselves, but one thing is obvious to me: the new structural design concept makes for an immensely versatile, ever changing and very modern watch. 





Its a light-catcher, for sure, and loves to play with it!





It does not even look to large, despite its solid 45mm.



Overall, I think Zenith ticked all the right boxes with the new El Primero Skeleton Ceramic. It is a plausible modern variant of a legendary movement, and as such a very much welcome stop-gap until we will (hopefully soon  ;-) !) see a fully newly developed successor.

It is a serious, I would say, non-gimmicky contemporary take on the milestone movement, and it adds modernity to Zenith's collection which has very clear roots in their tradition, but still feels natural - partly I think because its concept draws heavily on the innate features of the El Primero.



I wrote three months ago that 'my wallet is getting nervous' (here ), and this was the reason! My affection has cooled a bit, and with that, the immediate danger to my wallet, but this has not directly something to do with the watch. It is another, new Zenith (to which I have a very, very close personal relation with...  ;-)  ) which took the front seat - more hopefully soon!

What is your take on this design trend at Zenith? Do you like it, don't mind it, despise it?

I am curious to discuss this piece with you!

Thanks for reading,
Magnus