Ornatus-Mundi provides a hands-on review of the Zenith Academy Tourbillon Georges Favre-Jacot, a timepiece that masterfully integrates traditional horological mechanisms with modern aesthetics. This article explores how Zenith's design choices emphasize the technical prowess of its tourbillon and fusée-and-chain transmission system.
In the last few years Zenith has presented a number of watches which explore the third dimension of their movements and turn the result into a technical aesthetical theme. Here is the newest one, the
Zenith Academy Tourbillon Georges Favre-Jacot :
The Zenith Academy Tourbillon Georges Favre-Jacot, henceforth shorter Academy Tourbillon GFJ, combines two elaborate yet classical mechanism to improve timekeeping, the
tourbillon, designed to eliminate the influence of gravity on the escapement, and the
fusée and
chain transmission system, a system designed to deliver a constant amount of force to the escapement.
Cooperating with the already highly precise 'El Primero' escapement with its 36.000 VPH, the Academy Tourbillon GFJ promises to be a performance machine for your wrist. It also loooks like one:
Zenith made an applaudable design choice with this watch. The brand reduced the decorative finishes of the bridges and cocks to the absolute max, with just satinisation of surfaces and a fine brushing as well as anglage on the raised bridges rims.
The setup creates an eminently cool technical background for the two complications, which demand all your attention - and successfully get it, thanks to their outstanding filigrane elements as well as optical contrasts:
This impression is aptly confirmed already by the very first look at the constant force department: the two large barrel disks, the polished chain and the large screwheads, plus the generously dimensioned rubies:
The next image is quite informative as well. First, notice the shape of the constant force bridge - is it designed such that it provide mechanicial stability and at the same time offer a balancing counterpoint to the tourbillon bridge at 6 o'clock. The latter is the reason why it is assymmetric on the horizontal plane.
Further, note the super design of the hands. At first, they appear just sporty, but if you look closer you'll appreciate their complexity. The concave part around the pinion is a good starting point!
Then, I find the placement of the word 'manufacture' very apropos: isn't there a better place than on the main part of a rare complication?
The fusée is a marvel which does not need any special pointers. It is just amazing how such an 'ancient' mechanism blends so perfectly with a 21st century technical design!
On the other hand there is the tourbillon mechanism, supported by a splendidly-swung bridge:
The tourbillon cage is a known entity in Zenith world, it comes in a similar fashion with the other Zenith tourbillon watches and of course houses Zenith's fast 36.000 VPH movement. What makes it unique is the monochrome finishing, technical like the remainder of the watch:
Finally, at about 4 o'clock the power reserve is indicated with a 'high-low' marking. High btw means that more the 50h are still left!
The backside shows the special backside of the
El
Primero Calibre 4805, a 807-part
hand-wound movement
with a partly skeletonised main bridge:
Amazing how much space the two complications, fusée transmission and tourbillon, occupy and how little is needed for the rest of the gear-work!
Now this back bridge is
almost a perfect match ot the front - almost because while it comes in a quite straight architecture, its designers (or was it the watchmakers?) could not quite hide that the movement is produced in one of watchworld's most respected
watch manufacture - thus they thought that a watch movement without at least some traditional touches would be something
ce n`est
pas convenable... and so the Geneva stripes were applied!
A couple of other nice detail: turbine-simulating wheels...
... engraved Zenith logo...
... and a back tourbillon support which so nicely demonstrates the backbench appeal of satinised surfaces:
Housing the Cal. 4805 is a solid 45mm black ceramic case. Zenith supplies a beautiful, perforated black rubber strap and a
PVD-coated
titanium triple folding clasp
with the watch. It is wonderful to behold and sits, despite size, comfortably on the wrist:
It is however, perhaps not the ideal companion for your business shirt, and I think my images attest to that. But not all of us wear such a shirt, at least not every day. That aside, Zenith's watchmakers have created a compelling mix of complexity, simplicity and a strong personality.
It is also not too obstrusive, and given influx of light...
... you see its character unfold while you are watching.
It is an immensely fascinating watch, and I guess it points to a promising direction Zenith is going. The brand has finely exploited the modern elements in contemporary watchmaking, and combined this with the manufacture's well-documented horological tradition.
Of course, quite a few brand claim to do exactly that, but do they also deliver such a holistically designed product which displays the watchmaker's fascinaton with their profession in such a charming way?
I doubt it.
Thanks for reading,
Magnus
This message has been edited by MTF on 2016-09-18 11:35:43 
