The Salon QP 2012 was the scene of one of the first official appearances of the Patrimony Traditionnelle Automatic whose press release had been published a few weeks before.
Step by step, Vacheron Constantin builds a comprehensive collection around the simple and refined style that characterizes each Patrimony Traditionnelle. We therefore have the pleasure to find again the railway, the opaline silver-toned dial, Dauphine hands and applied indexes. This very pure dial is perfectly done and avoids falling into boredom thanks to suble relief effects brought by the index and the Maltese cross.
The case is much more slender than the Patrimony Traditionnelle with date display since with almost the same thickness (7, 26 mm vs 8 mm for the version with date display), it offers a diameter much more important (41 mm vs 38 mm). The diameter-to-thickness ratio is so radically different between these two watches. However the designers have worked to avoid the "egg" effect on the wrist which is felt when your wear a very thin and large watch. The thickness is sufficient to appreciate the work on the case finishings and the lugs curves. Despite its apparent simplicity, the case is more subtle that it appears at quick glance.
But the big question is not about the case but about the dial. Very well finished, refined, doesn't it lead tmonotony taking into account the diameter of the watch and the absence of any second hand? Because this is the main feature of this Patrimony: it is a watch with only two hands which, by definition, move slowly.
To avoid this risk, a particular care has been taken to determine the optimal sizes of elements that influence our visual perception. Thus the bezel is neither too thin nor too thick. The opening of the dial is therefore properly contained. In addition, indexes have the sufficient length, without being perceived as ridiculously large to reduce the blank area of the dial.
So despite its 41 mm, despite the absence of the second hand or of any other complication, the Patrimony Traditionnelle Automatic seems balanced which was not so obvious.
Caliber 2455 powers the Patrimony with date display. It is the classic 1120 caliber that animates the two hands of this new Patrimony. The 1120 caliber, based on the JLC 920 is the alter ego of the Audemars Piguet 2120. It is distinguished by its particular frequency (2, 75 Hz) and thinness (2, 45 mm). Power reserve remains rather low considering today standards (40 hours) even if this is not a very difficult problem. I appreciate the flawless and without unnecessary demonstrative effect finishings from Vacheron. Work on the rotor is the most spectacular with the hollowed-out Maltese cross supporting the peripherical gold part. Thanks to its presentation, the rotor allows us to appreciate the details of the movement which is a very good point.
We find here a well known cocktail combining a relatively wide and thin case, two hands and a caliber based on the JLC 920. In other words, this Patrimony is found in the same segment as the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Automatic that shares the same features.
To be honest, I was afraid to discover a boring watch due to the pure dial and the quite large diameter. I was pleasantly surprised because at the end, the Patrimony Traditionnelle Automatic is well balanced. It is finally the refined and elegant side that outweighs any other consideration. Personally, I continue however to prefer the Handwind Patrimony Traditionnelle for the pleasure brought by the 4400 movement and for the presence of the second hand that animates the dial.
Thanks to the Vacheron team for its warm welcome during the Salon QP 2012.
