In early July I had the pleasure of attending a luncheon in New York that Vacheron Constantin hosted along with the American Friends of the Paris Opera and Ballet in support of the Paris Ballet’s US tour. Though I could not attend the ballet later that night, I did arrange to communicate with Vacheron Constantin CEO Juan-Carlos Torres about the Métiers d'Art collection, of which a pair of unique watches, inspired by Marc Chagall’s fresco painting adorning the ceiling of the Garnier Opera House in Paris, were on display that day.
Also on hand were the three spectacular timepieces of the Univers Infinis collection, inspired by artist M.C. Escher, and which incorporate the artisan dialmaking crafts of gem setting, enameling, engraving, and guillochage:
The latest series of Make-i, featuring the horological “complication” of creating open work movements with the traditional Japanese “sprinkled picture” technique of applying gold or silver dust to wet black lacquer:
And last, but not least, gem setting in service of the horological arts:
Mr. Torres is a gracious host, articulate, and just as passionate about Vacheron Constantin watches today as he was when I first met him in 2005.
Brigitte Lefèvre, Director of the Paris Opera Ballet, and Juan-Carlos Torres, CEO of Vacheron Constantin
PuristSPro: Some VC timepieces directly acknowledge and pay homage to philanthropically supported artistic endeavors (I am thinking of Les Masques with the Barbier-Mueller Museum and the Chagall series with Paris Opera and Ballet). Others, such as the 250th Anniversary Métiers d'Art set, the Maki-e, and Univers Infinis extend the boundaries of dial making in artistic ways, inspired by artists and artistic techniques not usually associated with watchmaking. Please define the characteristics of the Métiers d'Art collection. What might we see in the future (other techniques, other artists, other sources of inspiration)?
Mr Torres: The Métiers d’Art collection – as its name suggests in French – gathers different timepieces, with various designs, yet all incorporating and showcasing decorative arts and crafts, mastered by Vacheron Constantin (through our own, internal Métiers d’Art workshop) and/or in partnership with independent artists, artisans and craftsmen.
Within the Métiers d’Art collection, our clients may find typical expressions of traditional decorative crafts – such as diamond-setting, to mention the Kalla timepieces, that are spectacular examples of jeweled watches.
Vacheron Constantin has a unique, particular connection with the world of culture and arts, and therefore we foster and develop this relationship when creating concepts such as The Masks, or the Chagall and The Opera of Paris series. Such creations are particularly challenging, from the design, technical and craftsmanship point of view and they are - certainly – demonstrating the very best of Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art spirit.
Les Masques - Third Set
In addition, we are looking for “other” decorative crafts, not only traditional decorative crafts used in watchmaking – as you mention, one example is the Japanese lacquer Maki-e art. We will certainly continue to incorporate in our Métiers d’Art timepieces such kind of decorative arts in the future.
The Métiers d’Art “territory”, for Vacheron Constantin, is an exciting playground in which we can express creativity, technical mastery and aesthetics, and of course with the highest level of craftsmanship inside… and we are currently working on several projects; some of them are very inspiring and … very challenging!
PuristSPro: Ever since the Mercator series of watches developed in 1994, Vacheron Constantin has combined horological complication with artistic expression more successfully than any other watchmaker (also thinking of the Great Explorer series, the Maltese Cross tourbillon carriage, and the bracelet of the Overseas). Please articulate this spirit that infuses a Vacheron Constantin timepiece, making them unique from any other watch house?
Mr. Torres: You are pointing on something very important: we make our best efforts, when conceiving and designing a timepiece, to make sure that it embodies three major elements: a refined, balanced design, the mastery of watchmaking technique, and superlative, exceptional finishings. The inner and outer beauty.
PuristSPro: Museums and repertory performance organizations preserve cultural content, and often re-contextualize it for modern audiences (They "make it new" as Ezra Pound famously postulated). Vacheron Constantin has a rich heritage of its own, and both preserves and takes inspiration from it, and here I am thinking of the Historiques collection. Please tell us about the importance of both the Maison, and the Historiques collection to Vacheron Constantin both today and in the future.
Mr Torres: Vacheron Constantin is especially proud of its unique heritage of 257 years of non-stop activity. The Maison – located in the historical birthplace of the brand – is where our Heritage and Museum Department is located and therefore is the source for inspiration, obviously, for the Historiques collection.
The Historique collection has an important role in the offer of our brand, as it showcases the vast creativity of Vacheron Constantin, notably concerning designs and shapes. We take great care into the re-design of Historiques watches: the most important is, for us, to re-think a watch coming from, let’s say, 60 or 70 years ago, and to create a modern expression of this vintage creation, without losing the original character or « soul » of this creation. Probably the Historiques American 1921 would be a fine example of this creative process.
American 1921, Vacheron Constantin NY Boutique Exclusive The Maison, its archive and museum are a true treasure for Vacheron Constantin, and a source for permanent inspiration, now and of course for the future.
For more on the Maison, archive, and museum, please read my interview with Julien Marchenoir, Vacheron Constantin’s Director of Brand Equity and Heritage: vacheron.watchprosite.com
PuristSPro: In a nod to traditional craftsmanship and an historical norm that has fallen out of favor, Vacheron Constantin has returned to bespoke watchmaking. What motivated the Cabinotiers initiative?
Mr. Torres: Since its founding, Vacheron Constantin has been close to its clients. The timepieces created by Jean-Marc Vacheron were made according to the desires of the buyer.
“Ateliers Cabinotiers” began a few years ago as an evolution of our history, but also because many of our collector clients wanted to work with Vacheron Constantin to realize the timepiece of their dreams. It became clear that what we needed to do was to integrate into our Manufacture a department dedicated only to special-order pieces and above all to the extraordinary level of service and client-treatment involved in this process. This had always existed, but had never had its own name and mission.
“Ateliers Cabinotiers” is where dreams are realized through a dialogue with all of the crafts of High Watchmaking. The most extraordinary challenges for our Grand Complications watchmakers occur within Ateliers Cabinotiers.
Many thanks to Mr. Torres for taking the time to answer my questions.
Bill
