Vacheron Constantin Cushion-Cased Watches

There must be something about a cushion cased watch partnered with a round dial that resonates with me. I find the combination attractive, and it almost doesn’t seem to matter what brand makes the watch. I admire the classic Panerai look, whether in the Luminor or the Radiomir case, almost regardless of the dial design or complications on the watch. How Panerai can spin so many variations on that basic theme and still keep people interested is fascinating: heaven knows that I like this years novelties just as much as last years! Despite Panerai employing it exclusively, the cushion case is not nearly as widely seen as a form movement compared with the tonneau (witness Vacheron Constantin’s emphasis on the Malte collection in 2012), and the square/rectangle, as seen in all variations of the Cartier Tank, and JLC’s success with the Reverso.

Vacheron Constantin has a long history with the cushion form, having made wrist and pocket watches with the shape in the early 20th Century. Antiquorum’s 2005 auction dedicated to the timepieces of Vacheron Constantin had three wonderful vintage examples up for bid. Lot 176 was the classic “American,” from 1919, and the predecessor to today's Historiques 1921:


Lot 177 featured the “Birds of Nekhbet,” a pocket watch inspired by a combination of Egyptian Revival and Art Deco influences, and featuring enamel bezel.


Lot 185 had a reference 4111 chronograph from the 1930’s:


This watch would serve as inspiration for Vacheron Constantin’s “Medicus” Chronograph in the early 2000’s:


The cushion form would fall out of favor mid-Century, but in 2008 it made a triumphant comeback in Vacheron Constantin’s output, with the introduction of both the Historiques American 1921, and the Quai de l’Ile.

Not only  is the Historiques 1921 a great design:


But it is an important timepiece for Vacheron Constantin, as it was the watch that launched the calibre 4400, a 28 mm diameter manual winding movement suitable for use in larger diameter watches.


Two other variations exist. One is the limited edition of 64 pieces for Vacheron Constantin’s first boutique in North America, which opened in New York in 2011 at the corner of Madison Avenue and 64th St.


The other is an exclusive platinum cased perpetual calendar model for the asian market:


The Quai de l’Ile is one of Vacheron Constantin’s most adventurous designs. Inspired by the forward thinking “new watchmaking” spirit of M&F, Urwerk, and others, Vacheron Constantin created a boldly designed case, with modular components that could be combined in colorful ways by the client, and an innovative dial concept, featuring a sapphire crystal machined by various high-tech treatments to be both legible and allow the owner to see through to the perfectly finished top plate. Using Vacheron Constantin’s automatic movements as a base, it came with Date:


Day, Date, and Power Reserve (the second use of the movement originally used in the classic Jubile 1755 from the 250th anniversary year):


And, in 2011, with Annual Calendar, which also shifted the Quai de l’Ile concept in a more conservative direction by employing solid dials:


I have long thought, and often stated, that one could build a very satisfying collection of Vacheron Constantin watches by keeping it to just two watches: the Historiques American 1921 and the Quai de l’Ile. One dress, one sporty. One manual winding, one automatic. One conservative, one adventurous. Both cushion with round dials. Then all I would need is a Panerai for a beater and I could move on to some other hobby. Yeah, right.

Bill
VC Forum Moderator