Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture Review

WHL · 2013-07-30T19:04:04Z

WHL reviews the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture, highlighting its in-house Caliber 118, 43mm case, and refined dial. Discover its technical and aesthetic improvements.

WHL

WPS member · Ulysse Nardin forum

12 replies8037 views5 photos

WHL provides a comprehensive review of the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture, focusing on the brand's significant shift to an in-house movement. He highlights the new Caliber 118 as a key differentiator, offering collectors the exclusivity and performance they seek. This article is crucial for understanding the evolution of Ulysse Nardin's Marine Chronometer line and the value proposition of its manufacture movements.

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I’m not sure how much the general population of watch buyers cares about the movement ticking away under the dial and inside the case of their watches, but I would think that the typical PuristSPro reader gives the movement more consideration than is typical. Ulysse Nardin has used the ETA 2892 for decades, and it has been a workhorse for the brand, being reliable, accurate, and a good foundation for interesting complicated watches. It is not, however, a movement that excites the collector in me, who seeks exclusivity along with great performance and reliability. With the introduction of the Ulysse Nardin caliber 118 last year in the Marine Chronometer Manufacture, the brand finally got me excited about the Marine Chronometer design in its entirety. There was just the issue with the case being 45 mm in diameter!

At Basel this year the brand introduced the Marine Chronometer Manufacture in a 43 mm case that better suits my taste.

The high polish case and lugs is given relief by the dramatic coin edge of the bezel.

Not only is the size a bit better, but when it comes to the Marine Chronometer design I have always had a preference for the Arabic dials over the Roman ones. On the silver dial model these applied markers are black, and the skeleton hands with luminous tips are also black, tying in nicely with the black rubber grip on the crown, and either the black rubber strap or black crocodile strap (a stainless steel bracelet is also an option). The outer railroad minute track is broken up by luminour rectangles, helping to orient the eyes for an accurate reading of the time in the dark.

The touches of red in the power reserve subdial bring the dial to life, along with the red printed “UN 118” in the small seconds subdial (UN is right to proudly proclaim the movement inside this watch).

While wearing a watch, all I really care about is the case and dial, but I want to know there is a great movement ticking away inside the watch as well. The UN 118 movement was conceived as an integrated movement for the Marine Chronometer design, rather than as a module on top of a base movement, as is the case with the UN-26 that powers the non-Manufacture models, which are still in production. I like the larger size of it (31 mm), which looks good and proportional in the sapphire case back.

The finishing is nicely done, with circular Geneva waves, attractive beveling on the bridges, and perlage under the balance wheel. The movement has a 60 hour power reserve.

As with all brands, collectors have to pay a premium for having an in-house movement in their watch. Ulysse Nardin values the caliber 118 in the Marine Chronometer Manufacture at what I think to be a reasonable 25% premium to the previous generation of the Marine Chronometer.

Thank you for reading.

Bill

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-07-31 21:22:06

Key Points from the Discussion

The Ulysse Nardin Caliber 118 is an integrated, in-house movement designed specifically for the Marine Chronometer, offering exclusivity and improved proportions compared to previous ETA-based movements.
The 43mm case size of the Marine Chronometer Manufacture is a welcome improvement over the previous 45mm, appealing to a broader range of collectors.
The silver dial model with black Arabic numerals and skeleton hands, accented by red in the power reserve subdial, is particularly praised for its aesthetic appeal and legibility.
The bilingual 'Power Reserve' inscription on the dial faithfully reproduces the design of original large ship chronometers, maintaining historical accuracy.
The finishing of the Caliber 118, with circular Geneva waves, attractive beveling, and perlage, is noted as nicely executed, visible through the sapphire case back.
The limited edition Marine Manufacture model features a gold rotor and darker ruthenium finish on the movement, offering a distinct visual appeal.

The Discussion

amanico

Jul 30, 2013

But the story doesn't tell us if you bought it. :)))

Seriously, this Marine Chronometer is a very good Watch. The only thing I don't like is the double writing, in French and in English around the power reserve indicator. I just don't get it. For the rest, nothing to say, this is a cool Watch. Best, and thanks for your post, Bill. Nicolas.

Marcus Hanke

Aug 1, 2013

The bilingual inscription for the power reserve is correct ...

... and faithfully reproduces the original, the big ship chronometers: Regards, Marcus

amanico

Aug 1, 2013

You are right! I forgot that detail. Thanks for the reminder.

WHL

Aug 1, 2013

Not mine, but a friend's

and it fits very well within his collection (a focus on watches with power reserve indication: IWC Portofino 8 day, PAM 384, VC Overseas Dual Time). Bill

MichaelC

Jul 31, 2013

Great photos and thoughts Bill

The black numerals really seduce me on this watch. I think these revised dials are far nicer than the ones that were shown with the initial launch, and aside from the enamel dialed LE edition in gold, this is my favorite version of the watch.

Marcus Hanke

Aug 1, 2013

Personally, I miss the heat-blued numerals and hands ...

... which have become somewhat of a distinctive design of the Marine Chronometer series. Regards, Marcus