Miles_151's original post highlights the enduring appeal of the Rolex Submariner ref. 16808, particularly its 'nipple' dial. This article explores why this transitional reference, blending vintage aesthetics with modern advancements, continues to captivate collectors. Miles_151 shares his personal experience and insights into its unique market journey and lasting value.
For me one of the nicest solid gold sports watches. Best of both worlds with the rare translational 16808 which aesthetically has the wonderful vintage style Nipple dial but has the modern improvements of the upgraded depth rating and sapphire Crystal which I love. This full set was purchased by me many many years ago at a cost of £4K. What is also so lovely about this particular watch is that after speaking to the AD who sold it he remembers the watch as it was in stock for many years before it sold. How times have changed. My go to summer beach watch but to be honest even brightens up a dull grey UK day.
M.

About the Rolex Rolex 16808 Ref. 16808
The Rolex Submariner Date reference 16808 represents a significant evolution within the Submariner line, marking the transition from acrylic to sapphire crystals and the introduction of the quickset date function. This reference is distinguished by its full 18k yellow gold construction, offering a luxurious interpretation of the classic dive watch. It was produced concurrently with its steel and two-tone counterparts, providing a premium option for collectors seeking a robust yet opulent tool watch.
This reference features a 40mm Oyster case crafted from 18k yellow gold, paired with a matching 18k yellow gold Oyster bracelet. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 3035, which provides a power reserve of 42 hours and incorporates the quickset date complication. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, enhancing its durability and water resistance to 300 meters. The unidirectional rotating bezel is equipped with a black aluminum insert.
For collectors, the 16808 is notable as an early sapphire crystal Submariner in full gold, bridging the gap between earlier vintage references and more modern iterations. Its production period, primarily in the mid-1980s, places it within a transitional era for Rolex. The combination of its precious metal construction and technical advancements makes it a desirable piece for those appreciating both the heritage and the functional improvements of the Submariner line.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 3035
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- blue
- Water Resist.
- 300m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Rolex Rolex 1680/8 Ref. 1680/8
The Submariner reference 1680/8 represents a significant variant within the Submariner line, distinguished by its precious metal construction. Unlike its steel counterparts, this reference was produced in 18k yellow gold, offering a more luxurious interpretation of the robust dive watch. It shares the fundamental design language of the Submariner, including the rotating bezel and Oyster case, but elevates its aesthetic through the use of gold.
This reference features a 40mm case crafted from 18k yellow gold, housing the automatic Caliber 1575 movement. This movement provides a power reserve of 48 hours. The watch is fitted with an acrylic (Plexiglas) crystal and offers a water resistance of 200 meters. The black dial is complemented by a unidirectional rotating bezel with an aluminum insert, and the watch is secured on an 18k yellow gold Oyster bracelet.
For collectors, the 1680/8 is notable for being one of the earlier gold Submariner references, produced between 1969 and 1979. Its precious metal composition and relatively limited production compared to steel models make it a distinct piece within the vintage Rolex market. It appeals to those seeking a Submariner with an elevated material presence and a connection to the brand's history of producing professional watches in luxurious finishes.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.1575
- Case
- 18k yellow gold
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic (Plexiglas)