
Miles_151's original post highlights the enduring appeal of the Rolex Submariner ref. 16808, particularly its 'nipple' dial. This article explores why this transitional reference, blending vintage aesthetics with modern advancements, continues to captivate collectors. Miles_151 shares his personal experience and insights into its unique market journey and lasting value.

The Rolex Submariner Date reference 16808 represents a significant evolution within the Submariner line, marking the transition from acrylic to sapphire crystals and the introduction of the quickset date function. This reference is distinguished by its full 18k yellow gold construction, offering a luxurious interpretation of the classic dive watch. It was produced concurrently with its steel and two-tone counterparts, providing a premium option for collectors seeking a robust yet opulent tool watch.
This reference features a 40mm Oyster case crafted from 18k yellow gold, paired with a matching 18k yellow gold Oyster bracelet. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 3035, which provides a power reserve of 42 hours and incorporates the quickset date complication. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, enhancing its durability and water resistance to 300 meters. The unidirectional rotating bezel is equipped with a black aluminum insert.
For collectors, the 16808 is notable as an early sapphire crystal Submariner in full gold, bridging the gap between earlier vintage references and more modern iterations. Its production period, primarily in the mid-1980s, places it within a transitional era for Rolex. The combination of its precious metal construction and technical advancements makes it a desirable piece for those appreciating both the heritage and the functional improvements of the Submariner line.
How on earth could a watch like that sit for years in an AD waiting to be adopted. Boggles the mind.
It is a wonderful match with the yellow gold. M.
Rolex issued them with duplicate papers which is printed on the certificate. When I spoke to the AD he remembered the watch so well and the trouble he had when it sold and the papers were lost. M.
Ps. You had me at nipple.
Really not easy to find these early ones with this dial. And to think Bill I remember so well when i first started going on forums decades ago people thought I was a English lunatic talking about how rare these are and what great value they were for so much watch. To be fair it was about the same time as I was telling all who would listen to buy as many 16520’s as they could for £3.5-4K as these would become a important watch. Again English madman. 🙈😜. I know you also have some lovely nipples. M
There is something inside it, it’s hard to explain… Best Ø
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