Rolex Vintage Market Shift: Modern vs. Classic Demand

The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 is notable as the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, marking a significant evolution for the line. Introduced in the late 1960s, it bridged the gap between the earlier no-date Submariners and later iterations, offering enhanced functionality while retaining the robust characteristics of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its single cyclops date magnifier on the crystal, a feature that would become a hallmark of many subsequent Rolex models.

This reference typically features a 40mm steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The crystal is acrylic, commonly referred to as Plexiglas, contributing to its vintage aesthetic. Water resistance for the 1680 is rated at 200 meters, consistent with its design as a reliable underwater instrument.

For collectors, the reference 1680 is highly sought after, particularly early examples with "Red Submariner" dials where the word "Submariner" is printed in red. These variants represent a distinct period in Rolex's production history and are prized for their rarity and aesthetic appeal. The 1680 appeals to those who appreciate the blend of historical significance, functional design, and the tangible qualities of vintage Rolex manufacturing.

The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655, often recognized by its distinctive orange 24-hour hand, was introduced as a tool watch for speleologists and polar explorers. It offered enhanced legibility in low-light conditions and a fixed 24-hour bezel to distinguish between AM and PM in environments where day and night cycles are obscured. This model stands apart from its GMT-Master sibling by focusing on a specific utility rather than multiple time zones, making it a specialized instrument within the Rolex professional line.

This reference features a 39 mm stainless steel case, housing the automatic Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. A robust acrylic crystal protects the black dial, which is characterized by its luminous hour markers and the prominent orange 24-hour hand. The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters, suitable for its intended robust use.

Collectors value the 1655 for its unique aesthetic and its position as the original Explorer II. Its fixed bezel and distinctive hand set differentiate it from later Explorer II iterations and other Rolex sports models. The reference appeals to those who appreciate purpose-built watches and the early design language of Rolex's professional series, representing a specific chapter in the brand's history.

The GMT-Master reference 16700 was introduced as a transitional model, serving as a more traditional alternative to the then-new GMT-Master II reference 16710. It maintained the original GMT-Master functionality, allowing for the tracking of two time zones simultaneously through its independent 24-hour hand linked to the main hour hand. This reference represents the final iteration of the original GMT-Master line, preceding the full transition to the GMT-Master II architecture. It was produced concurrently with the early GMT-Master II models, offering a choice for collectors who preferred the simpler GMT mechanism.

This reference features a 40mm stainless steel case, characteristic of many Rolex professional models of its era. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 3175, which provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, enhancing its durability and scratch resistance, and offers a water resistance of 100 meters. The bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel, often seen with a "Pepsi" (blue and red) or "Coke" (black and red) insert, allows for the tracking of a second time zone.

For collectors, the 16700 holds significance as the last of the true GMT-Master series, distinct from the GMT-Master II's independently adjustable 24-hour hand. Its production period, spanning from the late 1980s to the late 1990s, places it at an interesting juncture in Rolex's history. It appeals to those who appreciate the classic GMT-Master design and functionality, often sought after for its robust construction and the availability of various bezel insert options.

The Rolex Submariner reference 126619 is a notable variant within the Submariner line, distinguished by its use of 18k white gold for the case and bracelet. This reference offers a luxurious interpretation of the classic dive watch, setting it apart from its Oystersteel counterparts. It maintains the robust and functional characteristics expected of a Submariner, while elevating its material composition. This model is often referred to by collectors as the "Smurf" due to its blue bezel and dial, or "Blueberry" as mentioned by the collector, though the latter is less common.

This reference features an 18k white gold Oyster case with a diameter of 41mm, a change from previous generations. It is fitted with a blue Cerachrom unidirectional rotatable bezel and a matching blue dial. The watch is powered by the automatic Caliber 3235, a self-winding mechanical movement developed and manufactured by Rolex. This movement provides a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The Triplock winding crown ensures water resistance to 300 meters.

The 126619 appeals to collectors seeking a Submariner with a more understated precious metal presence compared to yellow gold, combined with a distinctive color scheme. Its white gold construction and blue dial/bezel combination make it a unique offering within the broader Submariner collection, positioned as a premium option for those desiring both the utility of a dive watch and the prestige of a precious metal timepiece. It represents a blend of traditional Submariner design with elevated materials.