Pieter, known as 'techniec' on WatchProSite, initiates a compelling discussion on a common horological journey: the shift from modern to vintage Rolex. His personal reflection, prompted by a milestone birthday, invites fellow collectors to explore the nuanced appeal of vintage pieces, contrasting their unique character and historical patina with the technical superiority of contemporary references. This article synthesizes community insights into the enduring charm and complexities of collecting vintage Rolex.
Dear fellow WIS,
With reference to the topic matter, please may I draw your attention to the following.
As of recently, my taste in watches seems to be shifting from modern to vintage and neovintage, especially when it comes to Rolex. It might have something to do with the fact that I recently turned 50 and am becoming a bit of a relic myself

Mind you, I am not knocking modern Rolex at all and recognise that their current watches are vastly superior to their vintage predecessors from a technical perspective, however there is something magical about the fact that these vintage pieces are all more or less "one-offs" with patina on the dial and indices and sometimes unique bezels reflecting the journey of the watch before you acquired it. I also like the fact that with vintage, you really have to do your homework to become in the know and to avoid buying a Frankenwatch, and that it's much less about who has the biggest wallet or the right AD connections to score a (often hyped up) reference which many others own too.
To illustrate I attach pictures of both my vintage Sub 1680 and my modern Sub 126619LB (Cookie Monster). The Cookie Monster is very well put together and the heft on the wrist certainly feels nice, but the 1680 just has a certain charm to it that is hard to resist, and is more and more becoming my daily driver. Same with my 16700, albeit to a lesser extent. Many years ago, I also owned a 1655 Steve McQueen (with straight second hands) which I stupidly sold off as I just didn't "get it" at the time and hated the rattly bracelet. Would love to own one again.
Did you experience a similar transition ? Really keen to hear your stories !
Thanks and best regards,
Pieter
About the Rolex Explorer Ref. 1655
The Rolex Explorer reference 1655 is a specific iteration within the Explorer model line. This reference is identified by its unique design elements that differentiate it from other Explorer models.
Information regarding the case material, crystal type, and movement architecture is not provided.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a distinct Explorer model. Its specific characteristics position it as a notable piece for those interested in the variations within the Rolex Explorer series.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 1575
- Case
- Stainless Steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680
The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 is notable as the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, marking a significant evolution for the line. Introduced in the late 1960s, it bridged the gap between the earlier no-date Submariners and later iterations, offering enhanced functionality while retaining the robust characteristics of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its single cyclops date magnifier on the crystal, a feature that would become a hallmark of many subsequent Rolex models.
This reference typically features a 40mm steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The crystal is acrylic, commonly referred to as Plexiglas, contributing to its vintage aesthetic. Water resistance for the 1680 is rated at 200 meters, consistent with its design as a reliable underwater instrument.
For collectors, the reference 1680 is highly sought after, particularly early examples with "Red Submariner" dials where the word "Submariner" is printed in red. These variants represent a distinct period in Rolex's production history and are prized for their rarity and aesthetic appeal. The 1680 appeals to those who appreciate the blend of historical significance, functional design, and the tangible qualities of vintage Rolex manufacturing.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.1575
- Case
- steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic (Plexiglas)
About the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16700
The GMT-Master reference 16700 was introduced as a transitional model, serving as a more traditional alternative to the then-new GMT-Master II reference 16710. It maintained the original GMT-Master functionality, allowing for the tracking of two time zones simultaneously through its independent 24-hour hand linked to the main hour hand. This reference represents the final iteration of the original GMT-Master line, preceding the full transition to the GMT-Master II architecture. It was produced concurrently with the early GMT-Master II models, offering a choice for collectors who preferred the simpler GMT mechanism.
This reference features a 40mm stainless steel case, characteristic of many Rolex professional models of its era. It is powered by the automatic Caliber 3175, which provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, enhancing its durability and scratch resistance, and offers a water resistance of 100 meters. The bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel, often seen with a "Pepsi" (blue and red) or "Coke" (black and red) insert, allows for the tracking of a second time zone.
For collectors, the 16700 holds significance as the last of the true GMT-Master series, distinct from the GMT-Master II's independently adjustable 24-hour hand. Its production period, spanning from the late 1980s to the late 1990s, places it at an interesting juncture in Rolex's history. It appeals to those who appreciate the classic GMT-Master design and functionality, often sought after for its robust construction and the availability of various bezel insert options.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 3175
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire crystal
About the Rolex Explorer II Ref. 126619
The Rolex Submariner reference 126619 is a notable variant within the Submariner line, distinguished by its use of 18k white gold for the case and bracelet. This reference offers a luxurious interpretation of the classic dive watch, setting it apart from its Oystersteel counterparts. It maintains the robust and functional characteristics expected of a Submariner, while elevating its material composition. This model is often referred to by collectors as the "Smurf" due to its blue bezel and dial, or "Blueberry" as mentioned by the collector, though the latter is less common.
This reference features an 18k white gold Oyster case with a diameter of 41mm, a change from previous generations. It is fitted with a blue Cerachrom unidirectional rotatable bezel and a matching blue dial. The watch is powered by the automatic Caliber 3235, a self-winding mechanical movement developed and manufactured by Rolex. This movement provides a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The Triplock winding crown ensures water resistance to 300 meters.
The 126619 appeals to collectors seeking a Submariner with a more understated precious metal presence compared to yellow gold, combined with a distinctive color scheme. Its white gold construction and blue dial/bezel combination make it a unique offering within the broader Submariner collection, positioned as a premium option for those desiring both the utility of a dive watch and the prestige of a precious metal timepiece. It represents a blend of traditional Submariner design with elevated materials.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Caliber 3235
- Case
- 18k white gold
- Diameter
- 41mm
- Dial
- Blue
- Water Resist.
- 300m
- Crystal
- Sapphire