Le Monde Edmond shares his growing collection of early Rolex Submariners, featuring a 1953 Ref. 6204, a Ref. 6536-1, and an early 1962 Ref. 5512. He reflects on the challenges and strategies of collecting vintage Rolex, particularly when focusing on specific lines and generations. Edmond invites the community to discuss their own Rolex collecting philosophies, sparking a conversation about depth versus breadth in horological pursuits.

Within Rolex it is clear. For me the submariner is one of the most interesting lines. I just recently acquired a 6204 from 1953, one of the earliest submariners. Now there are three generation of submariners in the collection. A 6204. A 6536-1 and a 5512 (an early example from 1962 with PCG, CR and laquer dial with gilt printing). I now face a dilemma. I cannot go back earlier - the 6204 is the earliest example of Submariner. I can go later though. Surely missing is a 6538. Perhaps also a 5510 (unlikely as they are super rare especially in half way acceptable condition). Then a 5508 and lastly a 5513. I cannot go further out as I don't care for any submariner with a date.
Perhaps the solution is to go deeper within each generation. So an aim could be to collect all 6200 versions. 6204, 6205, a sub-aqua. Or all versions of the SC examples. I have to think about my strategy. I am not sure yet what to do.
What is your strategy for collecting Rolex? Do you concentrate on specific lines? Generations?
Best Edmond
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
The Rolex Submariner reference 5513 is a notable example within the Submariner line, distinguished by its two-line dial and lack of a date complication. Produced for an extended period, it represents a core offering for collectors seeking a straightforward and robust tool watch. Its design emphasizes legibility and functionality, aligning with the original purpose of the Submariner series. This reference is recognized for its consistent aesthetic throughout its production run, with subtle variations in dial text and bezel inserts.
The watch features a 40mm stainless steel Oyster case, offering durability and water resistance suitable for its intended use. Powering the reference 5513 is the automatic Caliber 1520 movement, known for its reliability. The crystal is acrylic, contributing to the vintage character of the watch. The unidirectional rotating bezel, typically with an aluminum insert, allows for elapsed time measurement.
For collectors, the reference 5513 is a significant model due to its long production history and the various dial iterations, such as gilt and matte dials, which present distinct collecting opportunities. Its appeal lies in its foundational design and its position as a non-date Submariner, making it a desirable piece for those who appreciate the model's original form. The watch is often paired with an Oyster bracelet, completing its functional aesthetic.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal.1520
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40mm
- Dial
- Black gilt
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512
Rolex Submariner Reference 5512
The Submariner reference 5512 represents Rolex's no-date variant within the Submariner series. Distinguished by its clean dial layout without date complication, this reference was produced from 1962 to 1989, spanning nearly three decades of manufacturing.
The 40mm stainless steel case houses either caliber 1560 or 1570 automatic movements, providing 42-48 hours of power reserve. The watch features a black dial, unidirectional rotating bezel with aluminum insert, and acrylic crystal. Water resistance extends to 200 meters, with the watch fitted to a stainless steel bracelet.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking the fundamental Submariner aesthetic without date functionality. The extended production period and dual caliber usage create multiple variations within the 5512 designation. The no-date configuration offers symmetrical dial proportions that attract purists within the collecting community.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 1560/1570
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 40 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508
The Rolex Submariner reference 5508 represents the No Date series within the Submariner model range. Produced from 1958 to 1962, this reference is distinguished by its black dial that has developed spider patina over time.
The 5508 features a 37mm stainless steel case fitted with an acrylic crystal and rotating bezel. Water resistance is rated to 200 meters. The automatic Cal. 1530 movement provides 42-48 hours of power reserve. The watch is paired with a steel bracelet.
This reference appeals to collectors focused on vintage Submariner variants from the late 1950s and early 1960s production period. The spider patina dial condition represents a specific aging characteristic that develops over decades. Within the No Date Submariner lineup, the 5508 occupies the position of a four-year production run reference with the Cal. 1530 movement.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Cal. 1530
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 37 mm
- Dial
- Black with spider patina
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200
Rolex Submariner Reference 6200
The Rolex Submariner reference 6200 represents an early iteration within the Submariner No Date series. Produced during 1954-1955, this reference features a 37mm case size and incorporates the essential diving watch elements of a rotating unidirectional bezel and 200-meter water resistance. The black dial configuration provides the foundational aesthetic that would characterize the series.
The 37mm stainless steel case houses the automatic caliber A.260 movement, offering a 42-hour power reserve. An acrylic crystal protects the black dial, while the rotating unidirectional bezel provides the timing functionality. The watch is completed with a steel bracelet, maintaining material consistency throughout the construction.
This reference appeals to collectors focused on early Submariner iterations and those interested in the technical specifications of 1950s Rolex production. The brief production window of 1954-1955 and the specific caliber A.260 movement distinguish this reference within the broader Submariner catalog. The 37mm case size and acrylic crystal reflect the manufacturing standards of the mid-1950s period.
Specifications
- Caliber
- A.260
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 37 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 200m
- Crystal
- Acrylic
About the Rolex Ref. 6205
The Rolex Submariner reference 6205 is an early iteration of the Submariner line, distinguished by its pencil hands and a bezel without minute markers for the first fifteen minutes. This reference is notable for being one of the first Submariner models to feature the "Submariner" name on the dial, a key identifier for collectors of early dive watches. It represents a transitional period in the development of the Submariner, preceding later references with more standardized design elements. Its design cues reflect the functional requirements of its era, emphasizing legibility and durability.
This reference typically features a stainless steel case, housing an automatic movement. The case diameter is characteristic of early sports watches, providing a balanced presence on the wrist. The crystal is a domed plexiglass, contributing to its vintage aesthetic and offering a warm distortion at the edges. The movement is an automatic caliber, designed for reliability and consistent timekeeping. The water resistance rating was appropriate for its intended use as a tool watch, though specific depths varied in early production.
For collectors, the reference 6205 is significant due to its early production date and its role in establishing the Submariner's design language. Its scarcity, particularly with well-preserved dials and bezels, makes it a sought-after piece. Variants may exist in dial text and bezel configurations, which are closely examined by enthusiasts. This reference appeals to those interested in the foundational models of Rolex's professional watch lines, offering insight into the brand's early approach to purpose-built timepieces.
Specifications
- Caliber
- A260
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 38mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Plexiglass