Vintage Rolex Submariner 5512 Acquisition

Topcat30093 · 2012-05-16T18:50:45Z

Topcat30093 shares his challenging yet rewarding journey to acquire a vintage Rolex Submariner 5512. Learn about gilt dials and collecting.

Topcat30093

WPS member · Rolex forum

42 replies7438 views16 photos

Topcat30093's journey into vintage Rolex collecting offers a candid look at the challenges and rewards of acquiring a historically significant timepiece. His detailed account of navigating the complexities of vintage references, from gilt dials to chapter rings, provides invaluable insights for new collectors. This post underscores the importance of community mentorship in deciphering the intricate world of vintage Rolex.

Well actually I do.

I can't explain why over the past few months I have yearned for one! Perhaps it my age, my current collection or the stunning vintage Rolex watches that I have seen over the past few months and the excitement that I hear in owners words when writing about their new acquition.

Who can tell, what I can say is that I have looked at dozens nay hundreds of photos of vintage Rolex watches, all showing various degrees of vintage appeal, from their patina through to the history of the piece and the stories that come with it.

So the search was on to locate a genuine Vintage Rolex piece, in my case I had set my parameters on a 1680 red, hopefully MF with all it's B&P's. But I soon realised how scare they were and at what cost they would be

Then came the problem of finding a genuine and untampered piece. WHAT A BL**DY NIGHTMARE, how can there be so many frankenstein watches out there!! I thought that I knew a respectable amount about watches, but this field was a whole new minefield!!

So, slowly I started to learn, about Gilt Edge, Chapter Ring, Rail Track, Exclamation Dial, relume, ghost bezels, lug sizes, polished or unpolished etc, etc.

Now very fortunately, for me, I struck up a conversation (via PM) with a fellow Watchprosite member, which soon led to emails being passed back and forth, the member was extremely knowledgeable and very patient. A bit like a master teaching his disciple, no matter what stupid question I would ask they were always quick to guide and educate me. And for that I shall be forever grateful

Now, as I had previously mentioned, i was looking for a Red Sub 1680 with a fantastic patina. For me they filled three things:

1) A classic Sub

2) It had red writing on it and

3) It had the date.

Now, I live in the far South of the UK, where the wheel, phone and TV have only recently been invented if you get my gist

. So purely on a whim, I contacted a small watch & jeweller in town who I knew stocked pre owned Rolex watches.

So I asked the question "Do you have any vintage Rolex watches, such as a Red 1680" No came the reply "But I do have a lovely 5512 from 1961, serial number starting 693*** with SWISS and Exclamation dial at 6 o' clock, gilt dial, chapter ring beautiful patina and sits on a rivet bracelet " Thank you said I "But I am really after a 1680"

But, when I told my fellow collector, he advised me to look more into it more detail. Long story short after phone calls (including one from my mentor to the actual jeweller), emails & visits by myself. And an awful lot of support (including discussions with other collectors) and encouragement. I finally purchased my first vintage Rolex watch

My photos do not in any way do the watch justice, the colour of the dial , markers & hands are truly awesome, they just look so warm and can only be appreciated in the flesh. As with the gilt writing and chapter ring. Though its bemusing to see the colour of the markers can vary so much in the different light! The bezel is slightly faded and to top it all the accuracy of the watch itself is beyond belief, for a watch that is 51 years old. I have to say that it is on par with my Explorer II and Patek 5205G. Before, I finish my final words must go to those members (you know who you are) who gave up so much of their time to help & support me in this quest. Without your support, I wouldn't be wearing such a stunning piece. Thank you

Regards Tony PS My next piece, hopefully, will be a vintage Rolex from my birth year 1958.............Nicolas have you any ideas??

About the Rolex Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680

The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 is notable as the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, marking a significant evolution for the line. Introduced in the late 1960s, it bridged the gap between the earlier no-date Submariners and later iterations, offering enhanced functionality while retaining the robust characteristics of the professional tool watch. This reference is distinguished by its single cyclops date magnifier on the crystal, a feature that would become a hallmark of many subsequent Rolex models.

This reference typically features a 40mm steel case, housing the self-winding Caliber 1575 movement. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. The crystal is acrylic, commonly referred to as Plexiglas, contributing to its vintage aesthetic. Water resistance for the 1680 is rated at 200 meters, consistent with its design as a reliable underwater instrument.

For collectors, the reference 1680 is highly sought after, particularly early examples with "Red Submariner" dials where the word "Submariner" is printed in red. These variants represent a distinct period in Rolex's production history and are prized for their rarity and aesthetic appeal. The 1680 appeals to those who appreciate the blend of historical significance, functional design, and the tangible qualities of vintage Rolex manufacturing.

Specifications

Caliber: Cal.1575

Case: steel

Diameter: 40mm

Dial: black

Water Resist.: 200m

Crystal: Acrylic (Plexiglas)

Key Points from the Discussion

The Rolex Submariner reference 5512, launched in 1959, was the first chronometer version to feature crown guards, evolving from squared to pointed and then rounded ends by the mid-1960s, with the 1560 movement replacing the 1570.
A contributor cautioned against the prevalence of 'experts' on forums who often incorrectly identify issues with vintage Rolex watches, emphasizing Rolex's historical inconsistency in models and lack of detailed records, making definitive authentication challenging.
The discussion highlighted confusion regarding COSC certification for the 5512, with some models being chronometer-certified and others not, and the presence of two-line versus four-line dials.
The original poster acknowledged the conflicting information across various websites regarding vintage Rolex movements and COSC ratings, concluding that without explicit dial text or expert movement inspection, his 5512 is likely a non-chronometer movement.
The acquisition of a Gilt PCG Chapter Ring 5512 with an exclamation dial was lauded as a strong entry into vintage Rolex collecting, recognizing the extensive research undertaken by the author.
The author publicly thanked his mentor for invaluable help and support, stating that without it, he would not own such a beautiful watch, and expressed a desire to uncover its history.

The Discussion

Subexplorer

May 16, 2012

... Hi Topcat! Congrats on your new Sub! As much as I love 1680s, I confess I Would rather prefer this 5512 gilt better. These gloss, gilt minut track combo, is unbeatable! Love this oldie, the dial, the bezel, and riveted bracelet. A magnificent timepiece! Enjoy so much, and thanks for sharing Topcat! Cordial regards, Abel.

fernando

May 16, 2012

Vintage is the new game! Graham, Tim and now you! I think you scored great on this one Tony - it has all the elements of desirability as listed by Abel. The hard work and helpful friends sure pays off in the end. I can feel your excitement! cheers fernando

amanico

May 16, 2012

What a catch!!! For a first one, this is a brilliant one. You're absolutely correct, this dial is hard to catch in picture, but in the real it is captivating, anvouting, charming, awfully dangerous. Seeing it is adopting it. You have a lot of Vintage Rolex keys, here: The Chapter Ring, the Pointed Crownguards, the Exclamation Dot... Well, it seems that you have been seriously beaten. 1958... If I do have any idea? Yes, I do! All the best and huge congratulations. Nicolas

Bill

May 16, 2012

If your entry point is a PCG Chapter ring Exclamation 2 line 5512 what will your next act be. Big congrats. Very happy for you. Best Bill

elliot55

May 16, 2012

Hey Top Cat - That piece is amazing. Great find! Thanks for sharing the awesome pix. - scott This message has been edited by elliot55 on 2012-05-16 22:15:15

fernando

May 16, 2012

hidden away in somebodys' granny's attic, untouched for the past 20 odd years, with all papers & box & one owner, hehe.

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About the Rolex Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680

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About the Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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